Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

[NashvilleTJ]

And since this is not ADVBikeForum.com, time to get back to the Jeep...

My rig spends most of the year with my Rampage top in the safari configuration - no windows. Although it is easy to remove and install the windows (which is the reason I love this top), due to its configuration it's a pain to remove and install the rest of the top.

The Rampage requires the door surrounds, which is fine when I run my full doors. But, when I run the half doors as I do when I wheel, or am buzzing around in the summer, I've always hated the way those door surrounds look. They just don't seem to fit with the look of the safari top.

As everyone on this forum knows, those door surrounds are two pieces connected by a pin and clip at the intersection.

In looking at it closely, all the clip does is to keep the frame from coming apart when it is folded. When installed, the shape of the two halves of the surround and how they engage is what keeps it from coming apart.

You can see what I mean here:

So the clip serves no purpose when the surrounds are installed - and that gave me an idea...

 

[NashvilleTJ]

It turns out that when installed without the clip, the position of the pin on the vertical section of the surround would allow it to be pulled straight out and removed from the upper section - which is held firmly in place by the through bolts in the cage.

But what keeps it from being removed sans that clip, and also what holds the lower section in place against the pull of the windows, is the fixed 5/16" stainless pin which engages with the hole at the front of the tub at the back of the door frame.

My idea was that if I could remove that fixed pin, and replace it with a retractable pin of some kind, I could remove the lower (ugly) section of the surround without having to remove the top - which as I said is a pain.

After considering a bunch of ideas, I picked up these 5/16" x 3" stainless pull pins from Amazon.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

A few years ago I damaged one of my upper door surrounds laying the rig into a tree, and as a result I bought two complete surrounds from Davey's Jeep. I still had the damaged surrounds, so I decided I could risk taking a shot at modifying the pin - and if I screwed it up, no big deal.

The pin is molded into the surround, and after a bunch of trail and error - which included an unsuccessful attempt to drill one out - I found this method. I attached the drill to the pin and spun it enough to heat it up, and then I was able to pull it out.

Turns out the pin had one grove which engaged the door surround, and getting it hot allowed it to be pulled out leaving a perfect 5/16" hole in its place.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Next, I extended the 5/16" hole through the housing....

Using a grinder and cut-off wheel, I then clearanced the support to allow the movement of the pin.

Removing the ring, the pin slid in from the bottom, and I reinstalled the pull ring.

The pin is in there tight enough that it will not move on its own, but is easy to move with the ring. The ball on the bottom of the pin engages with the receiving hole in the body, and holds it firmly in place when installed.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

And whaddya know - it worked.

To install the surround, it goes in at an angle, and the pin on the lower section slides right into the receiving hole on the upper section.

Press it into place...

...and engage the pin.

It is just as secure as with the fixed pin, and removing it is just as easy.

It was a quick little project - and now no more ugly...

 

[Mike_H]

Nice! Couldn't you just make a removable top pin though, and accomplish the same feat? I mean, the top pin is already removable, but eliminate the c-clip...

Something Like an M-Lock comes to mind...

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Nice! Couldn't you just make a removable top pin though, and accomplish the same feat? I mean, the top pin is already removable, but eliminate the c-clip...

Something Like an M-Lock comes to mind...

I thought about something along those lines, but the pin would have to go in through the face of the surround (no way to pull it the other way as the cage is in the way) - which would interfere with the top when installed. It would have to be flush with the face, and therefore no way to pull it.

But, I may be missing what you are saying. I'm not familiar with the M-Lock.

 

[Mike_H]

I thought about something along those lines, but the pin would have to go in through the face of the surround (no way to pull it the other way as the cage is in the way) - which would interfere with the top when installed. It would have to be flush with the face, and therefore no way to pull it.

But, I may be missing what you are saying. I'm not familiar with the M-Lock.

I think you understand. I didn't realize the cage would prevent removal of the pin at the top.

M-lok is a Magpul design for removable slings and whatnot. Pretty cool.

It's too large of diameter for direct use in this application, but the concept is there

 

[someguysjeep]

good idea.

i'd like to keep my rampage top and at least have use of the lid,
wouldn't mind the ability to use the whole thing but i fear the necked rails might make it a bit sloppy on the back end.
i have no interest in replacing the clamshells that were under the OE bar covers but if i have to use um they'll be taped onto the tubes, i'm not drillin a bunch of holes into my tubes, beyond what's required for the door headers.

also may not bother with a top windshield frame gasket, it just offsets that rampage header anyways. i'll snag some sticky back stuff and put in onto the rampage header, i don't require a100mph highway seal.

 

[jjvw]

Next, I extended the 5/16" hole through the housing....

View attachment 269279

Using a grinder and cut-off wheel, I then clearanced the support to allow the movement of the pin.

View attachment 269280

Removing the ring, the pin slid in from the bottom, and I reinstalled the pull ring.

View attachment 269281

View attachment 269282

The pin is in there tight enough that it will not move on its own, but is easy to move with the ring. The ball on the bottom of the pin engages with the receiving hole in the body, and holds it firmly in place when installed.

I like this a lot. I might try it on my spare set of surrounds.

 

[DrDmoney]

And whaddya know - it worked.

To install the surround, it goes in at an angle, and the pin on the lower section slides right into the receiving hole on the upper section.

View attachment 269283

Press it into place...

View attachment 269284

...and engage the pin.

View attachment 269285

It is just as secure as with the fixed pin, and removing it is just as easy.

It was a quick little project - and now no more ugly...

View attachment 269287

That’s a great workaround for the surrounds, i think you just started a “Thing”

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Well, I checked into ordering a set of Interco TSL SX 43 stickies: no stock anywhere, have to order and pay in advance - about 800 a pop - and the estimated delivery date is April. Yes, April.

I can get a set of 20x10 Raceline beadlocks in about 3 weeks.

I’ll have to sniff around and see if anyone has a set of 5 tires lying around. Not holding out much hope.

Damned covid…

 

[jesseshoots]

Well, I checked into ordering a set of Interco TSL SX 43 stickies: no stock anywhere, have to order and pay in advance - about 800 a pop - and the estimated delivery date is April. Yes, April.

I can get a set of 20x10 Raceline beadlocks in about 3 weeks.

I’ll have to sniff around and see if anyone has a set of 5 tires lying around. Not holding out much hope.

Damned covid…

Check over on Hardline Crawlers. There's always someone trying to sell some big tires. I don't think you'll find any tires that big on this site lol.

 

[B00mb00m]

Well, I checked into ordering a set of Interco TSL SX 43 stickies: no stock anywhere, have to order and pay in advance - about 800 a pop - and the estimated delivery date is April. Yes, April.

I can get a set of 20x10 Raceline beadlocks in about 3 weeks.

I’ll have to sniff around and see if anyone has a set of 5 tires lying around. Not holding out much hope.

Damned covid…

Well that escalated quickly, 42's just not gonna cut it eh?

 

[B00mb00m]

And since this is not ADVBikeForum.com, time to get back to the Jeep...

My rig spends most of the year with my Rampage top in the safari configuration - no windows. Although it is easy to remove and install the windows (which is the reason I love this top), due to its configuration it's a pain to remove and install the rest of the top.

The Rampage requires the door surrounds, which is fine when I run my full doors. But, when I run the half doors as I do when I wheel, or am buzzing around in the summer, I've always hated the way those door surrounds look. They just don't seem to fit with the look of the safari top.

View attachment 269269

As everyone on this forum knows, those door surrounds are two pieces connected by a pin and clip at the intersection.

View attachment 269270

In looking at it closely, all the clip does is to keep the frame from coming apart when it is folded. When installed, the shape of the two halves of the surround and how they engage is what keeps it from coming apart.

You can see what I mean here:


View attachment 269271

View attachment 269272

So the clip serves no purpose when the surrounds are installed - and that gave me an idea...

I'd like to see how you got your safari top stretched so tight? I gave up on the safari always was flapping in the back. Did you add some extra tie down points?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Well that escalated quickly, 42's just not gonna cut it eh?

Well, not really - I've been thinking about this few a few months after wheelin' with some friends out at AOP earlier in the summer. Also looking at a new front axle with full hydro. Wrote about it earlier in this thread.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I'd like to see how you got your safari top stretched so tight? I gave up on the safari always was flapping in the back. Did you add some extra tie down points?

Nope, it's just the stock Rampage. The front cross bars on the cage help support the section over the front seats, but that's it. The top is pretty tight to start with. The design also make it two layers thick all the way back - so that helps completely eliminate any flapping in the back. I'm a huge fan of this top.

 

[RHanna]

Check over on Hardline Crawlers. There's always someone trying to sell some big tires. I don't think you'll find any tires that big on this site lol.

Oh great another website to obsess over.

 

[someguysjeep]

Nope, it's just the stock Rampage. The front cross bars on the cage help support the section over the front seats, but that's it. The top is pretty tight to start with. The design also make it two layers thick all the way back - so that helps completely eliminate any flapping in the back. I'm a huge fan of this top.

seen some complaints about it but i've never had any issues with my Rampage frameless.
the new bars over the front seats will support it nice, shouldn't even need the bows anymore.
only thing i worry about is the rear straps. i was well into the velcro area b4 and i may have to rework the strap to have enough to grip now if the rear bars don't keep it high enough, we'll see soon.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

seen some complaints about it but i've never had any issues with my Rampage frameless.
the new bars over the front seats will support it nice, shouldn't even need the bows anymore.
only thing i worry about is the rear straps. i was well into the velcro area b4 and i may have to rework the strap to have enough to grip now if the rear bars don't keep it high enough, we'll see soon.

I actually rebuilt my cage specifically to fit the Rampage. The rear outer dimensions now replicate the rear of the stock frame. Thinking about it, my rear cross bar ends exactly at the rear edge of the top - that certainly helps keep it from flapping.

Just a slight modification: