Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Blaine had mentioned to me in another thread that this '05 pump would work in my '04 tank with just a bit of careful trimming to allow the lock ring to fit over the head assembly - and that is all it took. After some careful marking and the use of a die grinder with a sanding disk - perfect fit. I only had to trim about 1/8" from the circumference - it took all of about 10 minutes.

IMG_0018.JPG


After that, it was a quick effort to reinstall the pump, hook it up and check the operation, and stick the tank back in.

IMG_0022.JPG


And just like that, the cranking issue is resolved. Once again it starts on one touch of the key, no matter how long it has been sitting.

We shall see how long it lasts.... :unsure:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob, CV04TJR, someguysjeep and 7 others
Flyin' Ryan has been doing a little tweaking to the Hemi tune this past week. I've asked him to alter the throttle roll-in to make it a bit less touchy when crawlin', and also to smooth out the cold idle. He also did a bit more cleanup on the tune.

Ryan sent me a new tune over the weekend, so I uploaded it and set up my fancy laptop desk to do a data log.

IMG_0252.JPG


After getting on the road, I'm looking at the scan and it is not registering speed. That's strange. I then turned and looked at the speedo and sure enough - 0.

So of course, my first thought is: "What the &*(%$ did Ryan do to my tune to cause this???"

No, not really (just kidding Ryan). But I was a bit perplexed since it started out of the blue. Then, a few minutes later the check engine light fires up - and I get a quick explanation:

IMG_0250.JPG


So after a quick trip to Amazon, I had a new speed sensor the next day.

IMG_0251.JPG


I generally don't believe in coincidence, but man, what a coincidence.

Anyway, threw in the new sensor and finally got a good data log for Ryan. The tune feels as good as ever, and the cold idle has settled down. The roll in on the throttle does feel a bit different, but I won't really know until the next time I wheel it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CV04TJR, Jamison C, someguysjeep and 4 others
A long time ago, prior to getting my big diesel tow rig and 10k pound trailer, I hauled the Jeep around behind a 1/2 ton Yukon XL on a 7k pound trailer. On that rig I ran a load bearing hitch - because it needed it to handle the weight. The big Ford - not so much. So I've always just straight bumper pulled the current trailer. I also run a set of air bags to recover the 1" the rear drops when I load up the rig.

Although I've never weighed it, I estimate the current trailer all loaded up runs between 9 and 10k pounds. It works very well as I've got it pretty much dialed in, and I've made many successful and comfortable cross-country trips with this setup (blown tires and broken shackles not withstanding...:rolleyes:).

Here she is all loaded up:

IMG_0183.JPG


A short while ago I was having a discussion with my buddy Ryan (@Apparition) about running air bags as opposed to running a load bearing hitch. Since I still have my old load bearing hitch, the conversation triggered a thought: I wondered if running that hitch would improve an otherwise already good towing setup. I'm heading out to Moab in a few weeks, so I thought it would be worth a try. You know, to quote JJ (@jjvw), "For Science!"

So I dug the old hitch out of storage to install it on the trailer. The first thing I had to do was to modify two of the brackets to clear the storage box on the tongue. It was my first opportunity to use to the new band saw on metal. And oh man, it cut through it like butter. I absolutely love this thing.


IMG_0259.JPG


IMG_0258.JPG


Then it was just a matter of some measurin' and cypherin', a few holes in the tongue, and it was in:

IMG_0261.JPG


A great feature of this hitch is that it has built in sway control - that's the purpose of that extra bracket in the center of the assembly. It made a huge difference behind the old Yukon.

Finally, I spent some time getting the hitch set to level the truck and the trailer. Then I took it for a long highway test drive, and to my surprise it made a difference. Zero sway, even when I deliberately swerved at highway speed, and a bit less hobby horsing. The steering even felt a little less light. To make sure I was not butt dynoing the results, or getting a placebo effect, half way through the drive I stopped and pulled the bars, and got back on the same highway. As good as it was before behind the big truck, there was definitely an improvement.

My final assessment is that it would not be worth the extra setup time for a short, local trip - say under a couple of hours - but it will definately be worth throwing it on for the trip to Moab.

Thanks Ryan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tworley, Blackjack, Lonewolf and 9 others
NashvilleTJ said:
A long time ago, prior to getting my big diesel tow rig and 10k pound trailer, I hauled the Jeep around behind a 1/2 ton Yukon XL on a 7k pound trailer. On that rig I ran a load bearing hitch - because it needed it to handle the weight. The big Ford - not so much. So I've always just straight bumper pulled the current trailer. I also run a set of air bags to recover the 1" the rear drops when I load up the rig.

Although I've never weighed it, I estimate the current trailer all loaded up runs between 9 and 10k pounds. It works very well as I've got it pretty much dialed in, and I've made many successful and comfortable cross-country trips with this setup (blown tires and broken shackles not withstanding...:rolleyes:).

Here she is all loaded up:

View attachment 319460

A short while ago I was having a discussion with my buddy Ryan (@Apparition) about running air bags as opposed to running a load bearing hitch. Since I still have my old load bearing hitch, the conversation triggered a thought: I wondered if running that hitch would improve an otherwise already good towing setup. I'm heading out to Moab in a few weeks, so I thought it would be worth a try. You know, to quote JJ (@jjvw), "For Science!"

So I dug the old hitch out of storage to install it on the trailer. The first thing I had to do was to modify two of the brackets to clear the storage box on the tongue. It was my first opportunity to use to the new band saw on metal. And oh man, it cut through it like butter. I absolutely love this thing.


View attachment 319464

View attachment 319465

Then it was just a matter of some measurin' and cypherin', a few holes in the tongue, and it was in:

View attachment 319467

A great feature of this hitch is that it has built in sway control - that's the purpose of that extra bracket in the center of the assembly. It made a huge difference behind the old Yukon.

Finally, I spent some time getting the hitch set to level the truck and the trailer. Then I took it for a long highway test drive, and to my surprise it made a difference. Zero sway, even when I deliberately swerved at highway speed, and a bit less hobby horsing. The steering even felt a little less light. To make sure I was not butt dynoing the results, or getting a placebo effect, half way through the drive I stopped and pulled the bars, and got back on the same highway. As good as it was before behind the big truck, there was definitely an improvement.

My final assessment is that it would not be worth the extra setup time for a short, local trip - say under a couple of hours - but it will definately be worth throwing it on for the trip to Moab.

Thanks Ryan.
Click to expand...
giphy.gif


Glad to hear you got it all sorted.
 
nice little get me there and back outfit.

how much tongue weight are you sitting with? the trailer runs what 2300# and the rig is maybe 5K , you got another 2k hiding in the box?
i figure i'll be comin in around 2K ish on the trailer and the rig 4500 maybe. 7K ish should put me around 7-900# on the tongue. i was under the impression you only need 10-12% on the tongue.

i heard the air bags were for 5th wheels or bed loads and could get a trailer teetering, i was hoping to handle this from the hitch with no extra's. i used to haul some big construction equipment with an old ford P/U w/a 6 banger, i didn't think the jeep would be a big deal..............am i wrong?
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ
someguysjeep said:
nice little get me there and back outfit.

how much tongue weight are you sitting with? the trailer runs what 2300# and the rig is maybe 5K , you got another 2k hiding in the box?
i figure i'll be comin in around 2K ish on the trailer and the rig 4500 maybe. 7K ish should put me around 7-900# on the tongue. i was under the impression you only need 10-12% on the tongue.

i heard the air bags were for 5th wheels or bed loads and could get a trailer teetering, i was hoping to handle this from the hitch with no extra's. i used to haul some big construction equipment with an old ford P/U w/a 6 banger, i didn't think the jeep would be a big deal..............am i wrong?
Click to expand...
It's just a SWAG on my total weight - again, I've never actually weighed it, but I should. It's a 20 foot, extra wide trailer, and comes in at something like 25 or 2600. The rig is closer to 6k than 5k (yes, I have been fat-shamed by Blaine), and between the spare axle shafts, driveshafts, jacks, fluids, air tanks, chains, straps, ropes, and other parts and tools, I've definitely got a least a grand in the box.

10% on the tongue runs well in most bumper pull trailers as I understand it, and since I've got my balance pretty well dialed in I'm likely in the 900-1000 pound range on the tongue. That I could easily measure, and I'll do that that the next time I load up the trailer.

On the bags, I've not had any bad side effects. It's not like I have to raise the back up 4 or 5 inches - just an inch or so, so it's not bad. I could definitely get by without them. But that's just me, I like the truck close to stock ride height when I tow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
IDK why a bag would matter but i see debates about them......to me it seems no different than a heavier rated spring and it'd still tow from the hitch with either, they are certainly cheaper that the fancy hitch rig.
 
someguysjeep said:
IDK why a bag would matter but i see debates about them......to me it seems no different than a heavier rated spring and it'd still tow from the hitch with either, they are certainly cheaper that the fancy hitch rig.
Click to expand...
I agree. My ford is a 250, and as I understand it the only difference between the 250 and the 350 is the rear spring rate. Same engine, same brakes, etc. I've also always thought adding the bag was like adding a heavier spring, and would then match a similar 350. But, not sure if that's really the case. My best friend has an identical 350 - and the empty ride on his is much more harsh than mine. I always thought the bag gave me the best of both worlds.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
Jeff, as you said with your truck, for short trips it probably doesn't matter.

But just in general a Weight Distribution Hitch just makes good sense all around when bumper pulling. The WDH takes some weight off the rear axle and distributes it to the front axle. While doing so it will also levels the trailer and the truck. Bags/air shocks/etc are just to level the truck due to weight in the bed and don't transfer any weight to the front axle, the weight remains on the rear axle, in fact in theory it could actually "attact" more weight since the spring rate would be stiffer. Remember to set up your WDH with no air in the bags, then adjust afterwards for more leveling if needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blackjack, Apparition and NashvilleTJ
There is nothing wrong with airbags to change the spring rate. I don't know your exact model and the differences with newer trucks but there's allot of things different on some year F250 vs F350. Allot more than springs and dual rear wheels, some years the frame is different and older trucks it's allot more than that. You can't just change the spring rate and poof, thousands of extra pounds. I'm pretty sure the 2017 and up has a different frame.
 
pagrey said:
There is nothing wrong with airbags to change the spring rate. I don't know your exact model and the differences with newer trucks but there's allot of things different on some year F250 vs F350. Allot more than springs and dual rear wheels, some years the frame is different and older trucks it's allot more than that. You can't just change the spring rate and poof, thousands of extra pounds. I'm pretty sure the 2017 and up has a different frame.
Click to expand...
Mine is a 2012. That year the 250 and the 350 (SRW) have the same tow capacity, so my guess is they are pretty similar. That year you had to step up to the 450 to tow more. Note sure about the bed capacity though.
 
pagrey said:
There is nothing wrong with airbags to change the spring rate. I don't know your exact model and the differences with newer trucks but there's allot of things different on some year F250 vs F350. Allot more than springs and dual rear wheels, some years the frame is different and older trucks it's allot more than that. You can't just change the spring rate and poof, thousands of extra pounds. I'm pretty sure the 2017 and up has a different frame.
Click to expand...
My 2021 F350 Superduty Tremor is identical to the same model F250 with the exception of capacity stickers and model badges.
 
Last edited:
NashvilleTJ said:
Mine is a 2012. That year the 250 and the 350 (SRW) have the same tow capacity, so my guess is they are pretty similar. That year you had to step up to the 450 to tow more. Note sure about the bed capacity though.
Click to expand...
They really do seem identical in 2012, almost every detail. It's Ford, I'm not surprised. I thought the 2021 had a different frame, 2017 and up but who knows, like I said it's Ford.
 
Paul - Your post got me thinking so I took a look. It appears that the only differences in the Fords that year were stiffer springs front and rear, a 4 inch lift block in the back on the 350, compared to a 2 inch lift block on the 250 (I kid you not, lift blocks...), and I think the 350 had a larger rear center section.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pagrey
Top Bottom
Back