Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

When I reinstalled the old gear, I took some time to take care of a small nit. When last I built this steering, I wound up with my pitman arm being a little off center when driving straight. I don't think it caused any problems and did not limit the steering travel in any way, but like many little things it just irritated me. It was off by a tooth or two.

So, I centered the arm and shortened my drag link just a bit to accommodate. It required breaking out my very expensive 7/8x18 Left Hand Tap to sink the threads just a bit further - well at least now I've gotten to use the thing twice....

View attachment 361703


And back in it went:

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Although the TRE's on the drag link were fine, the last time I smoked the one on the pitman arm side I installed my spare. This effort reminded me of that fact, so I ordered a spare to carry on the trailer.

The Moog part number I've used for this TRE is ES3096L. It's actually the stock TRE for this location. However, when I put them side by side, I see this:

View attachment 361704

The TRE I'm currently running (the one on the right) is noticeably thicker at the joint than the new one. Does anyone know if there is a heavy-duty version of this TRE, or perhaps Moog has changed the design? Or maybe the one I'm running now is an OEM part and is actually thicker?

Any insight is appreciated as always.

You might see if Parts Mike has a version.
 
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Well, I think I may have answered my own TRE question. Bounced around RockAuto's site and found a picture of the Moog TRE,

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and also the Mopar TRE.

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Definitely the difference. The Moog is $26, and the Mopar is $50 - so there is that...
 
@Brianj5600 don’t use Jeff’s rig for ideas. It can get really expensive.

I am definitely not trying to replicate Jeff's build. I'm shooting for somewhere in the middle. I had the pleasure of wheeling with him a while back and didn't have a chance to really look at his rig. I cut a side wall and was changing a tire in the parking lot as the sun went down and everyone was heading out.

Thursday night I had the great pleasure of having @Brianj5600 buy me dinner here at a local steak house. Brian wanted to talk about some future big plans he has for his rig. It was a great discussion - thanks again Brian! I enjoyed the meal, the conversation, and the company.

Anyway, after dinner we were in the parking lot - and Brian was going over my rig with a fine-tooth comb. I could tell he was just looking to find something wrong. And damn if he didn't!

"Hey, ahhhhh, Jeff", Brian said with a smug smile, "do you know you have a broken exhaust bracket?"

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Well, after crushing my ego, Brian asks "How is it driving with hydro-assist? Is it squirrelly on the street?"

"If it's set up correctly, you don't even know it's there. Would you like to drive the rig?"

After a few seconds of thought, Brian says "Ahhhh, I dunno - that exhaust could fall off at any second....."

:)

But he took his chances.




Thanks again Brian. We need to wheel again soon.

I could look at a well built rig, race car or boat for a long time. If anyone goes to any motorsport event with me, they need to know I will pore over every detail. If only I applied that to my Jeep.
 
I am definitely not trying to replicate Jeff's build. I'm shooting for somewhere in the middle. I had the pleasure of wheeling with him a while back and didn't have a chance to really look at his rig. I cut a side wall and was changing a tire in the parking lot as the sun went down and everyone was heading out.
Just warning you this

A9AFAAD7-EF4A-49E9-89A5-25DC9BBA1EA6.jpeg


Can turn into this because of him
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Quick update: I spoke to PSC about the problems with the new big-bore steering gear I bought, and they are sending me a new unit. Hopefully the second time is the charm. So, I'll wind up swapping the steering gear for the 3rd time in about a month....

Also, thanks to @Brianj5600's eagle eye, I welded the broken exhaust hanger.

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Thanks again Brian. We need to wheel again soon.

Let me know when you all head out, possibly I could join. I have a trip to Clayton, OK planned mid Oct, after that I would be game to head down to Hawk Pride or AOP. I saw some footage from yesterday's UA2022 trip to Hawk Pride yesterday, the sky opened up and dumped so much rain that the waterfalls were actual waterfalls!!
 
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Let me know when you all head out, possibly I could join. I have a trip to Clayton, OK planned mid Oct, after that I would be game to head down to Hawk Pride or AOP. I saw some footage from yesterday's UA2022 trip to Hawk Pride yesterday, the sky opened up and dumped so much rain that the waterfalls were actual waterfalls!!

You’re kidding. They are that close? I should have been chosen just for proximity!
 
You’re kidding. They are that close? I should have been chosen just for proximity!

Yeah, they were in Hawk Pride, a friend of mine is not in UA but is a vendor and sent me some video. The sky opened up and it poured rain!! Looked like some of those full size trucks had some problems with the tightness of some of the trails. Not sure where they are at today.


Friends of mine are heading to Hawk Pride this weekend. Same crew and same time of year as last time when you and I went out on our own. I decided to sit this one out in order to make sure my Jeep was still together for Clayton in Mid-October. Also, didn't want to sit around and watch them drink beer after every obstacle.
 
I did a fun little fab project over the past week. I've always had a concern over the easily defeated tongue lock mechanism on my trailer. Like many bumper mount trailers, it's simply a 1/4" rod running through the locking lever. I've always used a simple lock on it, Here it is:

IMG_0001.JPG


The absolute worst thing for security in the last 20 years was the advent of the cordless grinder with a cutoff wheel. With one of those you can very quickly defeat just about any lock. In this case, it literally takes less than 5 seconds to cut through this pin. And it's very easy to get to it.

When I travel with the rig, I'm often parked in hotel parking lots overnight, and when I'm not using it, the trailer is stored in an easily accessed part of my yard.

Now I'm not naive enough to believe you can build anything to guarantee securing a trailer against theft (the easiest way to steel a trailer is to attach the safety chains to a truck and drag it away to a place where you have time to defeat whatever lock is in place), but I wanted to see if I could come up with something to at least slow 'em down, or maybe make 'em think twice about going to the trouble.

I wanted to come up with a mechanism which would help to secure the trailer when hooked up to the truck, and also when parked by itself.
 
I considered and designed several different approaches to securing the hitch. I started out trying to come up with a better way to secure the actual lock mechanism on the locking lever, but ultimately I decided that if you can't get to it the lever, than you can't unlock it.

My hitch is height adjustable, with the coupler being mounted to this 5/16" u-channel with two 3/4" grade 8 bolts. This is yet another method for stealing the trailer - if you really wanted the trailer and it and it is locked to the truck, just walk up with your cordless 1/2" impact and spin off these bolts.

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After kicking around some ideas, I decided I could use the structure of the coupler mount to build a cover which would prevent access to the locking lever. I designed one approach which was a hinged mechanism which would flip down and lock to the u-channel, but I couldn't quite get it to flip up far enough out of the way to give unhindered access to the lever.

I'm a big fan of Occam's Razor, so I simplified my approach by designing a cover which will drop down over the entire hitch, lock in place, and at least make it very difficult to get to the lever.
 
I did a fun little fab project over the past week. I've always had a concern over the easily defeated tongue lock mechanism on my trailer. Like many bumper mount trailers, it's simply a 1/4" rod running through the locking lever. I've always used a simple lock on it, Here it is:

View attachment 373331

The absolute worst thing for security in the last 20 years was the advent of the cordless grinder with a cutoff wheel. With one of those you can very quickly defeat just about any lock. In this case, it literally takes less than 5 seconds to cut through this pin. And it's very easy to get to it.

When I travel with the rig, I'm often parked in hotel parking lots overnight, and when I'm not using it, the trailer is stored in an easily accessed part of my yard.

Now I'm not naive enough to believe you can build anything to guarantee securing a trailer against theft (the easiest way to steel a trailer is to attach the safety chains to a truck and drag it away to a place where you have time to defeat whatever lock is in place), but I wanted to see if I could come up with something to at least slow 'em down, or maybe make 'em think twice about going to the trouble.

I wanted to come up with a mechanism which would help to secure the trailer when hooked up to the truck, and also when parked by itself.

You’re right. It’s a real pain in the butt trying to secure any trailer that isn’t a fifth wheel. They take more time. There are the coupler type locks, but like you said, the safety chains can be hooked up and they can drag it away. My safety chains are wrapped around and under part of the trailer structure with a lock underneath, but they could still cut that lock (though it’s hard to get too) and use their own chains. I don’t have a total solution yet. Slowing them down seems to be the best I can do. Watching
 
First up, I cut some cardboard to design the sides of the box. Note that to the rear it sits just about flush with the u-channel (this will be important to how it is ultimately secured) and mimics the outer contour of the coupler.

IMG_0010.JPG


It's always a good day when I get to break out the heavy-duty power tools...

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I was able to build the entire thing out of stock I had lying around the shop. 1/4" plate and a piece of 2x4 1/4" rectangle tubing.

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Next, transfer the cardboard template over to the steel...

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And then let the big band saw eat.

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Easy peasy...

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Then to complete the forward portion of the box, a simple straight cut to form the top, and tacked into place.

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The forward portion of the box drops down onto the top of the ball coupler, so more for looks than anything else I cut a cove into the front piece to match the contour.

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To match the angle on the sides of the box, I used the press brake to add a bend in the front piece just above the cove.

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Tacked in place...

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...and dropped onto the coupler.

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I'm pretty happy with how it fits so far.
 
The next portion of the box wraps around the u-channel and does three things: 1) wraps around the u-channel to lock it in place 2), covers the bolts securing the coupler to the u-channel, and 3) provides a location for a pin to secure the box to the trailer.

Even with the band saw sitting right there, nothing beats the metal cutting chop saw for accurate cuts in tubing. First, I cut a piece to match the height of the box:

IMG_0022.JPG


The band saw would have been great for this next cut except for one thing: To match the dimensions of the cover and fit closely to the back of the u-channel, this piece is a 16th" deeper at the back - so I used the old stand by to cut two channels:

IMG_0023.JPG


Tacked in place...

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...and it still fits:

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