Need Advice on Bad 2004 Rubicon Purchase

Sounds like a Rubicon body was put on a Sport frame and running gear, and that’s why the VIN states it as a Rubicon. Pretty shady.
 
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Sounds like a Rubicon body was put on a Sport frame and running gear, and that’s why the VIN states it as a Rubicon. Pretty shady.
I did notice that there is a space for the 2nd(front) locker pump next to the rear pump below the TC, is that typical for other models too?
 
Is the vin still visible on the passenger side of the frame? Does it match the vin on the tub? The tag near the front bumper also has the vin I believe and that would be tied to the frame.
 
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There are 2 DS
If you haven’t yet, test @mrblaine ‘s theory.

Find a relatively flat stretch of road maybe 200 feet long or a parking lot with dry pavement.

Start with your baseline test. Leave it in 2WD and put it in 1st gear and just let it idle. Roll in a straight line. That’s your basis for comparison (aka the “control” test).

Next, return to the original starting point. In neutral (or clutch out if manual), shift into 4hi. Go into 1st again, let the clutch out slowly if it’s a manual, or let off the brakes slowly if it’s an automatic. If the ratios are the same it should travel in a straight line almost exactly the same way as the 2wd test.

If the car slows to a stop or seems like it wants to stall in 4WD but not in 2WD, you probably have different ratios. If you hear any tire screech or shudder or excessive gear noise or banging, stop immediately. That would likely indicate different ratios.

Don’t add any significant throttle in 4WD until you are confident there is no binding due to different ratios. If they are different you’ll scuff the tires at best or grenade a differential or transfer case at worst. (Idle in 1st and high range shouldn’t have enough torque to cause any damage.)

If the 4WD seems smooth, go ahead and take a turn on the pavement. That binding you feel is what you would have felt if the ratios were different. Binding while turning in 4WD is normal for any car with a locked center differential or part-time transfer case. (Again, no significant throttle.)
 
I did notice that there is a space for the 2nd(front) locker pump next to the rear pump below the TC, is that typical for other models too?
No, not typical. Typical is that only the Rubicon models have the bracket for the locker pumps and both locker pumps are installed. You are missing one because they sold it with the front axle when they put the Dana 30 in.
 
Is the vin still visible on the passenger side of the frame? Does it match the vin on the tub? The tag near the front bumper also has the vin I believe and that would be tied to the frame.

Yes, check this.

The VIN on the frame is on the side, just down from the door hinges.

The tag on the front is just below the left most grill opening when standing looking at the grill.

Obviously, they should match the VIN on the dash.
 
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The VIN on the frame is on the side, just down from the door hinges.

Is this stamped, or a tag, or sticker? Just curious, since I don't recall ever seeing one on my frame.

If it's not there I think I might stamp one in somewhere when I repaint the frame
 
WUT?!
I state that 4:1 transfer case is not for everyone.
You respond as if transfer case with such low ratio is good to go, i simply need to use my gear box.
Another guy states a reason why and why your statement is flawed.
Your response to him is not to use a transfer case.

This is some logic beyond my grasp :unsure:

5th gear in 4lo is a higher ratio than than 1st gear in 4hi, if you need the higher ratio shift to 4hi

Simple logic
 
If you haven’t yet, test @mrblaine ‘s theory.

Find a relatively flat stretch of road maybe 200 feet long or a parking lot with dry pavement.

Start with your baseline test. Leave it in 2WD and put it in 1st gear and just let it idle. Roll in a straight line. That’s your basis for comparison (aka the “control” test).

Next, return to the original starting point. In neutral (or clutch out if manual), shift into 4hi. Go into 1st again, let the clutch out slowly if it’s a manual, or let off the brakes slowly if it’s an automatic. If the ratios are the same it should travel in a straight line almost exactly the same way as the 2wd test.

If the car slows to a stop or seems like it wants to stall in 4WD but not in 2WD, you probably have different ratios. If you hear any tire screech or shudder or excessive gear noise or banging, stop immediately. That would likely indicate different ratios.

Don’t add any significant throttle in 4WD until you are confident there is no binding due to different ratios. If they are different you’ll scuff the tires at best or grenade a differential or transfer case at worst. (Idle in 1st and high range shouldn’t have enough torque to cause any damage.)

If the 4WD seems smooth, go ahead and take a turn on the pavement. That binding you feel is what you would have felt if the ratios were different. Binding while turning in 4WD is normal for any car with a locked center differential or part-time transfer case. (Again, no significant throttle.)

Might want to just roll the Jeep by hand in 4wd neutral rather than accidently power through something bad.
 
No, not typical. Typical is that only the Rubicon models have the bracket for the locker pumps and both locker pumps are installed. You are missing one because they sold it with the front axle when they put the Dana 30 in.
Okay, seems like I may have the proper body/frame combo, I will check the VIN #'s as well. Yeah, I figured that is what happened with the front pump.
 
Might want to just roll the Jeep by hand in 4wd neutral rather than accidently power through something bad.
Could you lift the Jeep, getting the wheels off the ground and check the tire rotation to see if the gear ratio is the same between front & back?
 
Could you lift the Jeep, getting the wheels off the ground and check the tire rotation to see if the gear ratio is the same between front & back?
You could do that but they wont bind even if they are different gear ratios, the tires will just rotate at different speeds,
You could count the pinion revolutions with one rotation of each axle on both ends and that will tell you if they are the same or not.
 
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You could do that but they wont bind even if they are different gear ratios, the tires will just rotate at different speeds,
You could count the pinion revolutions with one rotation of each axle on both ends and that will tell you if they are the same or not.
Cool, that is what I was thinking, easier for me to make that compute.
 
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