Need ideas for highline fenders

Are you saying it's not the cat's ass?
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Why do you have to run coil over to get the full benefit of a high line?
For the high travel situations COs are beneficial because they keep the spring aligned throughout the travel as the shock moves in the mount.

But I'll be testing how much I can use in my highlines next week. I don't expect the spring is the deciding factor.
 
I’m considering highlines to be my next thing after my old man emu/DPG lift to run 35’s. I like the look and am excited about the under hood changes that have to be made. But doing some more research before I jump into the project. Came across a set of aluminum nemesis high lines with inners battery tray and all for 600 bucks locally
 
Why do you have to run coil over to get the full benefit of a high line?
Adding to what @rasband said, on my jeep I have 11" shocks upfront with a 6/5 bias to uptravel. When flexing out I still don't get to the top of the fender and likely could raise it another inch. (Total guess) So 7/4 may work in my case but I'd lose droop. With the fancy shocks @jjvw has it may not be as bad because you could run 7/5 but it's still a compromise. If you put 14" coil overs in you'd have 7/7.... I'm not personally concerned at the moment since it's not an issue currently but if I was starting over I'd highly consider getting 14" coil overs and pushing the wheelbase forward a bit like @jjvw as well. Not because of interface issues with the tires but to increase the approach angle.
 
Adding to what @rasband said, on my jeep I have 11" shocks upfront with a 6/5 bias to uptravel. When flexing out I still don't get to the top of the fender and likely could raise it another inch. (Total guess) So 7/4 may work in my case but I'd lose droop. With the fancy shocks @jjvw has it may not be as bad because you could run 7/5 but it's still a compromise. If you put 14" coil overs in you'd have 7/7.... I'm not personally concerned at the moment since it's not an issue currently but if I was starting over I'd highly consider getting 14" coil overs and pushing the wheelbase forward a bit like @jjvw as well. Not because of interface issues with the tires but to increase the approach angle.

Hopefully this will put things into perspective.

Here is 6" up, 6" down with a 4" spring and 1.25" body on 35s.
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I made it fit with the stock hood line. Chopping off the outer fenders back to the hood allow the tire to rise up maybe 3/8" past where the factory fender lip used to be. The Currie/RockJock coils do unseat at full shock extension, but I have some trickery going on with some small keeper springs hidden up top to keep the spring pigtails from falling out of their seats.

If I were to go to 37s or to a longer travel shock or less ride height, then I would benefit from highlines in ways I could not achieve the way I did here.

Run 11" shocks up front split 50/50 and you can keep the factory outer fenders and the flare.

The bottom line is that very few who are running sensible, balanced builds would benefit from highlines. The clearance is already there.
 
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Careful with highline or aftermarket steel fenders. I have a few friends with bent tubs because of them. Ones with sizeable flares anyway.
 
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Careful with highline or aftermarket steel fenders. I have a few friends with bent tubs because of them. Ones with sizeable flares anyway.
I bent my passenger side tub with the OEM fenders causing the replacements to not sit quite right on that side. It's all about how you land on what's there, obviously it's harder to catch what isn't there.
 
I bent my passenger side tub with the OEM fenders causing the replacements to not sit quite right on that side. It's all about how you land on what's there, obviously it's harder to catch what isn't there.
I know you can bend the tub with factory fenders but that kind of proves my point. A lot of after market fender makers tout stronger fenders or it is at least implied. If the stock sheet metal fenders can bend the tub, image how bad that tub dent might have been if you had them tube boys on there at the time.

 
For the high travel situations COs are beneficial because they keep the spring aligned throughout the travel as the shock moves in the mount.

But I'll be testing how much I can use in my highlines next week. I don't expect the spring is the deciding factor.
Did you see Blaine’s picture where he trimmed a Crawltek fender since his tire was hitting it?
 
Did you see Blaine’s picture where he trimmed a Crawltek fender since his tire was hitting it?
I'm not sure I did, do you happen to have a link or picture? I don't expect to on my 35s but it's possible with the travel I'm chasing (especially when 37s materialize).
 
I'm not sure I did, do you happen to have a link or picture? I don't expect to on my 35s but it's possible with the travel I'm chasing (especially when 37s materialize).
I can’t recall where I saw it. But I may have to do it to mine.
 
Thank you for all for the wealth of knowledge. Sounds to me like I need to hold off buying anything and go back to the drawing board again.

I’m back to second guessing the old man emu/core 4x4/jks setup I purchased and installed over the past few months along with the 32x11.5x15 the Jeep came with.
Thinking I should’ve done the Currie 4 inch set up from the beginning, but as we all know piss in one hand and wish in the other so here we are.

It is an LJ so it’s my understanding 4 inch springs can sometimes work given the longer wheelbase without vibes as I am seemingly unsatisfied with anything less than a 35 inch tire for my next tire purchase. The arms I currently have can be adjusted to accommodate 4 inch springs, I am tempted to just work towards that setup as opposed to try to make the current suspension work as is with 35’s via highlines and other goodies.