Why are all the measurements on the MC joint imperial, except the hole being metric randomly?
Why are all the measurements on the MC joint imperial, except the hole being metric randomly?
You'd be the first I've heard of to try that.I was hoping to swap in the innards and keep the housing.
Why are all the measurements on the MC joint imperial, except the hole being metric randomly?
i did replace most of my MC joints with JJ's. still have a few but they'll be swapped out when i stop spending on everything else (lotta projects goin).Not sure i understand why its not worth retaining the arm. It's an aluminum double adjustable arm. Nothing wrong with the arm just the joint. And only one joint to replace on the uppers.
innards? if your asking if the JJ bushing will fit an MC barrel, that'd i'd not bank on. the barrels just a piece of tube but it's what they do to it inside that might differ, the machining for retainers may not be similar. that i did not do or attempt.I was hoping to swap in the innards and keep the housing.
I’m gonna assume here and say that hole is made to factory specs to match existingWhy are all the measurements on the MC joint imperial, except the hole being metric randomly?
Yeah, I think you’re right after reading a bit today. Currie’s instructions also say that the bolts they include are 7/16” and the hole is metric and will need to be drilled out.I’m gonna assume here and say that hole is made to factory specs to match existing
It would have to be drilled out if it was SAE since 10mm is just slightly larger than 3/8". Currie isn't having you drill because it is metric, they are having you drill because you need the larger bolt.Yeah, I think you’re right after reading a bit today. Currie’s instructions also say that the bolts they include are 7/16” and the hole is metric and will need to be drilled out.
I think people get intimidated about drilling out the top holes. Once they do one and realize it takes about 6 seconds per corner the hesitation goes away real fast…It would have to be drilled out if it was SAE since 10mm is just slightly larger than 3/8". Currie isn't having you drill because it is metric, they are having you drill because you need the larger bolt.
The reason you don't drill the lowers is 9/16 is only a few thou larger than the stock 14mm bolt and is generally within the clearance hole size you would use for the smaller 14mm bolt.
Until you’re drilling the uppers on the axle side… fuck that. I never want to do it again.I think people get intimidated about drilling out the top holes. Once they do one and realize it takes about 6 seconds per corner the hesitation goes away real fast…
I thought everyone knew to use the 4 OEM bolts there and make two bolts with two nuts from what you removed?Until you’re drilling the uppers on the axle side… fuck that. I never want to do it again.
I thought about it, looked at the nasty hardware I removed, then decided I should drill it out and use the new hardware in the pack. Next time I'd go to the store and buy something instead of drilling. Lessons learned.I thought everyone knew to use the 4 OEM bolts there and make two bolts with two nuts from what you removed?
We almost never drill those out. Way too hard and sometimes you get a bushing with a hardened bolt sleeve that just eats up drill bits.I thought about it, looked at the nasty hardware I removed, then decided I should drill it out and use the new hardware in the pack. Next time I'd go to the store and buy something instead of drilling. Lessons learned.
Not really.Hear tale that you should disassemble new JJs and grease before installation. Any truth to that?
I drilled mine out and it took me almost an hour to complete the two. The cycle was drill, cool, sharpen bit, and repeat. It worked, wasn't fun, and I don't think I'd do that again!Until you’re drilling the uppers on the axle side… fuck that. I never want to do it again.
I heard the same thing so I disassembled one when my new CAs arrived. It was all nice & greasy so I just installed the rest of them.Hear tale that you should disassemble new JJs and grease before installation. Any truth to that?
If one insists on doing it the hard way and risking running into a hardened bolt sleeve, the best way to do it is with a 7/16" chucking reamer. I've done several with the same one and it is still sharp. Only a solution, not a recommendation.I drilled mine out and it took me almost an hour to complete the two. The cycle was drill, cool, sharpen bit, and repeat. It worked, wasn't fun, and I don't think I'd do that again!
We wait until they make noise. For many sets installed years ago, we are still waiting.I heard the same thing so I disassembled one when my new CAs arrived. It was all nice & greasy so I just installed the rest of them.
BTW what's the recommended interval for disassembly & servicing? Once a year? Do you all just wait until they get a little noisy?
I would at least check them. I had to grease most of mine within 8 months of putting them on. Granted I live in a more clay-soil state which apparently sucks them dry faster.Hear tale that you should disassemble new JJs and grease before installation. Any truth to that?