Stover is a brand. It is used generically to describe any of a number of the "upset" or interference style locking nuts. I use the Grade C top locks more often than anything else unless I'm using the Currie T bolts and then we have to use nyloc style or the interference strips the threads on the T bolt.
Ahh that's a much better sounding setup. Too bad they changed it.
So funny thing, I didn't know what a t bolt was and figured I'd google it to find out. First result comes back with this.
Remember locktite is also a lubricant, if you have a dry torque spec and plan to wet the bolt, best to look up the lubricated spec for that bolt. On bigger stuff it's not as much of an issue but on delicate bolts like those it's worth checking.
We have used them before and since but we've had some issues with the top lock ruining the threads. Since that is a part we supply with our disc brake conversions for the 44 and 8.8, I don't need that issue when the customer is trying to get something installed. Not quite sure what is going on but when I have the same thing happen to me that others report, I do my best to change it so it doesn't happen again. We have had zero issues with the grade 8 nylocs.
Where are those specs from? Reason I ask is the bolts, bolt sleeves, and the material they are threaded into and the depth of the material for all intents and purposes are identical. The front caliper is easily twice as heavy as the rear one so it strikes me as very odd that the rear bolt torque is nearly twice what the front one is.
Sounds better and it may be for that one particular thing but for anything else, the JK set up is far better in every other aspect. To install an axle in the 44, you have to carefully slide the seal into the housing bore, but not far enough to make sure the seal is fully engaged and not damaged. You have to leave it partially out so you can reach behind the axle flange and get the 4 bolt retainer up onto the bolts with no room to work easily. Once you get it lined up on the bolts sticking through, then you have to carefully turn the axle flange and line up the access hole to stick a socket with a nut stuck in the end of it through the hole and try to start it on a bolt. That bolt has to be pushed all the way outward so you then have to reach around behind the backing plate and hold it in place while you get the nut started. If you don't have the axle pushed in far enough, the bolts don't stick through the retainer far enough to get the nut started, push it in too far and you can't manipulate the retainer to line it up easily because there isn't enough room between the back of the axle flange and the parking brake shoes to get your fingers in there.
Alldatadiy.com off an 06 TJ account.
Oh not doubting you at all. I was more amused that knowing the issue they would still supply it with that nut, but use nylocs all over the antirock.
Agreed, I scratched my head and looked twice to make sure I wasn't missing something. I more looked it up to confirm that the front was 11 ft/lbs, it sounded right but it's been a while, so I figured I'd double check.
As many times as I've reinstalled my TJ's Dana 44 shafts over the years, I still never look forward to that part of the job, it's a bit of a PITA to me. Sometimes it goes somewhat easily but not always.
There is a company that makes a triple drilled rear shaft for the 44. Due to the overlap on the hole spacing, there is no access hole for the retainer bolts. You have to sneak them in from the side between the back of the flange and the parking brake shoes. They were in an axle under a rig I did some swapping for and when I sold it, the new owner wanted to swap the seals out. Matt and I did one side, told the owner we weren't doing the other side and then told him to buy some axles with the access hole. It took us about 45 minutes to get one side done using an open end wrench between the axle and parking brake shoes.
Gota love it when the marketing department designs the product.
So I’ll know it’s in if the axle turns and drives normal? I have the bolts on and torqued. Even double checked. It all seems tight and am able to turn the wheel. ( in neutral and on jack stands). Just seeing if I’m missing something after seeing some info on trouble with the plate lining up. I didn’t seem to have any problems there.
Sounds excactly like what I did. Didn’t seem to have too much trouble though. Now I’m nervous that I should have had more difficulty.....?
You were just holding your tongue right, it usually all goes back together without any problems at all.
