Anything is better than what you have. Try USA Standard for economy and decent quality. Timken makes an acceptable unit bearing as does SKF.
New front axle unit bearings coming apart
- Thread starter bjoneill
- Start date
Qtec is no help. Waiting on AUSA.
I have to take the responsibility. I read multiple threads about aftermarket axle shafts being shorter than stock and made some bad assumptions instead of asking for help
I’ll add this to my school of hard knocks lessons.
Ill pony up for the new stubs and UB.
Even if the “spacer” things came off the axles I would still need new UB. Since they are 30 spline I would be stuck with AUSA units.
Seems smarter to move on. Expensive, but smarter.
Thanks for all the help
I’ll update if AUSA gets back to me.
I have to take the responsibility. I read multiple threads about aftermarket axle shafts being shorter than stock and made some bad assumptions instead of asking for help
I’ll add this to my school of hard knocks lessons.
Ill pony up for the new stubs and UB.
Even if the “spacer” things came off the axles I would still need new UB. Since they are 30 spline I would be stuck with AUSA units.
Seems smarter to move on. Expensive, but smarter.
Thanks for all the help
I’ll update if AUSA gets back to me.
See if the spacer comes off. That should allow you to run the 30 spline stuff until you need to replace the UBs.
It’s refit a spacer. It’s milled step.
However, I decided if I may have to replace the stub and UB anyway why not get creative. I tried it on upside down. With a light hammering it seared all the way.
The slight gap is because I pulled it back off. It won’t go in the correct way, yet. I’m hoping with some on and off I’ll get it to go on. Maybe it will still bind in the middle. Maybe I can get it there.
its 35* in the garage. Maybe cooling will help
I’ll work on it more tomorrow.
Maybe...
However, I decided if I may have to replace the stub and UB anyway why not get creative. I tried it on upside down. With a light hammering it seared all the way.
The slight gap is because I pulled it back off. It won’t go in the correct way, yet. I’m hoping with some on and off I’ll get it to go on. Maybe it will still bind in the middle. Maybe I can get it there.
its 35* in the garage. Maybe cooling will help
I’ll work on it more tomorrow.
Maybe...
Since they don't fit together properly; I would have returned the parts and requested a refund.
Even if you get them to fit together; all the tapping and smacking of these NEW parts will have decreased their life expectancy.
Even if you get them to fit together; all the tapping and smacking of these NEW parts will have decreased their life expectancy.
Finally did get a response from AlloyUSA. They have QC issues. Need to return for a refund.
Hopefully, they will send you out a new set before you have to send your set back. They should send it to you credit to be issued once they receive the bad set back. That's how a good company would handle it with their customer.
There's lots of wishful thinking in this world about how businesses should do shit. The only folk that actually know how it works are the ones that sell shit.
I don't know about killing it but I do know if I send out a free warranty exchange part first, the likelihood of getting the suspect part back in a timely manner is zero, getting it back at all is about 1 in 200.
I work for a company that manufactures and sells woodworking machinery. That is how we work our warranties unless it's a customer that I personally deal with and know their reputation. Then, I'll send it out no charge and ask them to send back the damaged item when they're up and running.
Well this isn’t overly encouraging. I have the Alloy USA Dana 30 full 30 spline kit, 12232, sitting in the parts pile. Granted I basically got it for free but now wondering if is even worth moving forward with it.
Is there anyway to tell if the inner shafts are good before I commit to a 30 spline locker to match?
Is there anyway to tell if the inner shafts are good before I commit to a 30 spline locker to match?
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