New skid plate not lining up with frame holes

TreverStevens

TreverStevens

Knows enough to be dangerous
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Doing a UCF skid with my engine swap and even after pushing the 5.9 as far back as possible to weld the engine mounts in I knew the trans was still about 2" further forward than the factory position. On the upside, that means I get a little more rear drive shaft length which I'll be needing due to the added length of the 241 TC. But now the holes for the skid plate don't like up. My game plan is to drill 3/4" holes in the frame where the holes in the skid plate line up and weld in flange nuts that fit the factory hardware. Painting over all of it and possibly even patching the former holes just to reduce any potential for rust and frame rot over the years. Is this recommended or would anyone have another idea?
 
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TreverStevens said:
Doing a UCF skid with my engine swap and even after pushing the 5.9 as far back as possible to weld the engine mounts in I knew the trans was still about 2" further forward than the factory position. On the upside, that means I get a little more rear drive shaft length which I'll be needing due to the added length of the 241 TC. But now the holes for the skid plate don't like up. My game plan is to drill 3/4" holes in the frame where the holes in the skid plate line up and weld in flange nuts that fit the factory hardware. Painting over all of it and possibly even patching the former holes just to reduce any potential for rust and frame rot over the years. Is this recommended or would anyone have another idea?
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Drilling new holes to match up with the skid is a good idea but I would purchase and install new nut serts like the factory ones.
 
I would prefer to drill new holes in the skid plate than in the frame. If one pair of frame holes (I'm guessing in your case the rear ones) are outside the skid then use a peice of triangulated 1/4" plate steel bolted or welded to the skid to tie into the last frame holes.

Other option is to move the transmission mount plate on the skid, or if it's really far forward and you are running an engine skid then move the trans mount plate to the engine skid. I would avoid drilling any more holes in the frame at all costs.
 
All 4 Wheelin' said:
Drilling new holes to match up with the skid is a good idea but I would purchase and install new nut serts like the factory ones.
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Why that over welding in a flange nut? I feel like I already have had enough issues with nutserts in my TJ, why continue to use them.
 
GASnBRASS said:
I would prefer to drill new holes in the skid plate than in the frame. If one pair of frame holes (I'm guessing in your case the rear ones) are outside the skid then use a peice of triangulated 1/4" plate steel bolted or welded to the skid to tie into the last frame holes.

Other option is to move the transmission mount plate on the skid, or if it's really far forward and you are running an engine skid then move the trans mount plate to the engine skid. I would avoid drilling any more holes in the frame at all costs.
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I had thought about this but can't remember why I opted out of this option now. It might have been because I don't have a drill press or mill and with the skid being carbon steel ti would be tricky to do by hand.

UCF has a stiffener channel on their skids that also acts as a mount for the transmission. So moving that whole channel is kind of off the table. See picture below attached for how they do this.

1571017120941.png

1571017144342.png
 
TreverStevens said:
Why that over welding in a flange nut? I feel like I already have had enough issues with nutserts in my TJ, why continue to use them.
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I actually had to replace my skid nutserts and found them to be simple enough to install. Regardless of fastener style, maintenance is key. These frames are notorious for collecting debris so annual cleaning would be advised. Also removal, cleaning, and application of antiseaze on the skid fasteners every so often would also be advised.
 
I'd just mark the frame where the skid holes want to be, then remove skid.
Measure the distance from the nutsert to the mark on the frame, let's say your 2".
Then drill new holes through the skid plate 2" back so that they now will align with the nutserts on the frame.
Much easier than drilling frame and welding in new nutserts. And accomplish the same thing.
Plus if you measured wrong🤬 you can always slot the holes in the skid a hell of a lot easier than having to move the nutserts 1/4".👍
 
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All 4 Wheelin' said:
I actually had to replace my skid nutserts and found them to be simple enough to install. Regardless of fastener style, maintenance is key. These frames are notorious for collecting debris so annual cleaning would be advised. Also removal, cleaning, and application of antiseaze on the skid fasteners every so often would also be advised.
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Ya, I already bought replacement bolts for the skid plate since the old ones were getting a little corroded and such.
 
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mrblaine said:
I would just drill 5/8" holes in the frame and use the OEM nutserts. Doesn't hurt that I can walk over to the shelf and grab one or 6 of a couple thousand we have in stock.
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So you'd pick that over welding in flange nuts?
 
It's been awhile, and I'm not at home today. But if you move the skid plate back, wouldn't it not be wide enough for the frame? Since the frame tapers.

When I did my 5.9 swap I had a steel belly (33 Engineering) and was able to move the crossmember back some, and also made an "extended" trans mount bracket that used both the Dodge and Jeep bracketry.
 
pcoplin said:
It's been awhile, and I'm not at home today. But if you move the skid plate back, wouldn't it not be wide enough for the frame? Since the frame tapers.
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Skid is getting moved forward about 1.5"-2". So the oval holes in the skid overhang towards the outside of the frame rails slightly.

If I drill into the skid instead of the frame I'm not crazy about where the rear holes would end up on the skid. The rears would be 1/4"-1/2" from the rear edge of the skid plate. That's just too close for my liking. I've decided to but a new set of nutserts, drill the frame and put the skid forward. If I have clearance issues with the front driveshaft then I'll notch the skid as needed, but I think I'll be okay... for now at least.
 
TreverStevens said:
Skid is getting moved forward about 1.5"-2". So the oval holes in the skid overhang towards the outside of the frame rails slightly.

If I drill into the skid instead of the frame I'm not crazy about where the rear holes would end up on the skid. The rears would be 1/4"-1/2" from the rear edge of the skid plate. That's just too close for my liking. I've decided to but a new set of nutserts, drill the frame and put the skid forward. If I have clearance issues with the front driveshaft then I'll notch the skid as needed, but I think I'll be okay... for now at least.
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Sounds like a plan. Pics when you're done?
 
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