New TJ Day - Project Goldilocks

hear

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My daughter is getting ready to drive & has been saving her pennies for a car, but we’re a TJ household so I’ve been on the lookout for a cheap TJ with an auto, and particularly one with a reported transmission issue because that gives me maximum bargaining power.

Found one a couple weeks ago, a 97 that hadn’t run since May and had a bad transmission leak. When I found it, it was marked down to $6k from $8500, so I figured it was primed for our budget. Went and looked at it last week….

first off, no rust underneath, or anywhere for that matter. Green paint has a nice gold patina (by which I mean clear coat is gone on the hood & fenders), but the interior is great. We have some basic cleanup ahead of us, but no issues to speak of. Seats are great despite having seat covers (I feared the worst!). 33” tires have TONS of life left. Cracked windshield, but that’s solvable. Basically nothing wrong that I can see.

Dead battery as expected, but it immediately fired up from a jump start, and honestly purred like a kitten. Oil looked great. Trans dipstick was pretty well dry, and wouldn’t go into gear at all. I could see evidence of a drip from the bellhousing but nothing on the driveway or skid that would indicate a huge leak. Heat & AC work but can’t make it blow on the upper vents (resisted the urge to say “blow on my face). So basically we need a battery, some ATF, probably a pump seal, and then we’ll see what else comes up.

I kept the conversation going with the seller who had said she turned down a $4k offer (which was what I was wanting to pay). Sat on it for maybe 10 days, and offered $4500. She took a couple of days, but accepted. On FB marketplace the only automatics we’re all listed at over $8k, and anything listed in the 6 range was kinda trashed, so this looked like a good value in this market.

Wife drove us out there today with a gallon of ATF, cables, and a mess of tools. The plan was to jump it, dump the fluid into the trans, and make it drive the hour back home before it lost enough fluid to cause an issue. And hopefully not die because I forgot to steal the battery out of the 02.

I fully expected this thing to spew transmission fluid once I put it into neutral, but it didn’t. I figured the pump was shot…but nope! Went right into gear and was driving under its own power for just $30.

So my daughter completed the transaction…clean title, they’ve had it since 2004, the title shows 60k miles. 😝. Drive the hour home and checked the fluid. Was just above max when I filled it up, and there was no discernible loss after that drive. I’ll call that a win for now. Got a new battery & it fired right back up. Looks like we can focus on the little stuff with most of the big stuff no longer a pressing issue. The seal still needs to be done, but the jeep is 100% mobile for the time being so I can get it in a few weeks when I have a little more time.
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And the most important one of all:
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Man yes.

You know, when somebody has the experience to resurrect one, and you get a good combination of engine and transmission options like this- there’s just no way you’re going to lose.

You’re actually in it so good you can make it great and be ahead of the game.
 
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Nice score! I sure wish I lived in a spot that I could find mechanical neglect issues and not rust issues. Be a lot easier for me to justify flipping them!

Seriously, Jeep looks great and it should make a wonderful first car for your daughter.
 
The initial plan was to fix the issues and flip this one for a purple 04 I posted in the what did you do today thread, but I'm a little hesitant because well, I already feel very good about this one and I don't have any experience with all the stuff they changed in 03, including the 42RLE. But we will go look at it just because it's fun to look, and then we can know if it's worth chasing or not.

I found new fenders in the right color for $100 with the color keyed flares, which I may remove and sell, as well as a hood & windshield + frame for $150, all in the right color. This thing will be tip-top before she knows it.
 
Virtually all my calls fell off my calendar today so I have time to play around on this thing, except that they took it to school today.

two biggest/easiet areas to address are the fact that the HVAC only blows on feet or defrost. Probably be a vacuum problem, which I fixed on my 02 by just end up replacing the lines & the check valves, and making sure the reservoir under the battery was still connected.

And then there is just a slight bit of dampness under the passenger side carpet, which means something is going on under the cowl, most likely. Step 1 will be to at least figure out what's going on under the cowl panel.
 
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And then there is just a slight bit of dampness under the passenger side carpet, which means something is going on under the cowl, most likely. Step 1 will be to at least figure out what's going on under the cowl panel.

Or its a heater core issue!!! 🤯
 
Virtually all my calls fell off my calendar today so I have time to play around on this thing, except that they took it to school today.

two biggest/easiet areas to address are the fact that the HVAC only blows on feet or defrost. Probably be a vacuum problem, which I fixed on my 02 by just end up replacing the lines & the check valves, and making sure the reservoir under the battery was still connected.

And then there is just a slight bit of dampness under the passenger side carpet, which means something is going on under the cowl, most likely. Step 1 will be to at least figure out what's going on under the cowl panel.

It could also be the vacuum actuated lever has snapped. You can usually tell looking in through the driver side foot well and switching mode to see which move and which are broken.
 
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It could also be the vacuum actuated lever has snapped. You can usually tell looking in through the driver side foot well and switching mode to see which move and which are broken.

nice, I did not know that. Meanwhile, onto the small stuff.

  • New oil pressure sender has fixed (for now anyway) the constant CHECK GAUGES alarm.
  • Shifter indicator light was burned out. That's a funny one, because in the stick TJ I don't think twice about it, but in the auto it feels like you're staring into the abyss when that light isn't there. For future readers: the shifter indicator light is a 194, and you don't have to remove the entire console. The black shifter bezel pops right off and the bulb is right there. What a stupid thing to make such a big quality of life difference. It shouldn't even matter!!
  • There appears to be a small to moderate power steering leak somewhere. I see it on the lower radiator hose but I can't find any fluid on the pump or hoses so far. Added some Lucas PS stop leak just to seek if it helps. The bottle says guaranteed, but you may have to add 2 bottles. I guess this stuff functions as PS fluid? It looks like thicker ATF, so I guess we'll see on that. If I have to replace the pump & hoses, so be it.
  • Brake pedal is a little soft, so I figure I'll just flush the whole system except I can't find my hose that fits on the bleeder screw or my one man bleed kit. Anybody know what size I.D. hose to use there?

After being driven for a good bit today, there's definitely more ATF on the bell housing so I need to get to that seal sooner rather than later. Oh, and for various reasons my wife had to drive it home. Got to hear all about the "gauges going all crazy" (the oil pressure), the A/C doesn't work (because it will only blow on her feet), and how the brakes don't work, and the steering is loose (will look at that next).
 
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nice, I did not know that. Meanwhile, onto the small stuff.

  • New oil pressure sender has fixed (for now anyway) the constant CHECK GAUGES alarm.
  • Shifter indicator light was burned out. That's a funny one, because in the stick TJ I don't think twice about it, but in the auto it feels like you're staring into the abyss when that light isn't there. For future readers: the shifter indicator light is a 194, and you don't have to remove the entire console. The black shifter bezel pops right off and the bulb is right there. What a stupid thing to make such a big quality of life difference. It shouldn't even matter!!
  • There appears to be a small to moderate power steering leak somewhere. I see it on the lower radiator hose but I can't find any fluid on the pump or hoses so far. Added some Lucas PS stop leak just to seek if it helps. The bottle says guaranteed, but you may have to add 2 bottles. I guess this stuff functions as PS fluid? It looks like thicker ATF, so I guess we'll see on that. If I have to replace the pump & hoses, so be it.
  • Brake pedal is a little soft, so I figure I'll just flush the whole system except I can't find my hose that fits on the bleeder screw or my one man bleed kit. Anybody know what size I.D. hose to use there?

After being driven for a good bit today, there's definitely more ATF on the bell housing so I need to get to that seal sooner rather than later. Oh, and for various reasons my wife had to drive it home. Got to hear all about the "gauges going all crazy" (the oil pressure), the A/C doesn't work (because it will only blow on her feet), and how the brakes don't work, and the steering is loose (will look at that next).

I did not know the auto had a shift indicator.

For the trans leak, if it looks like it's coming out the front passenger side, check the dipstick tube. The earlier TJs used an o-ring rather than a grommet there. It's fine until it gets pulled out once. Then the age showed and it forever leaked there until I changed the o-ring.

My TJ was my first vehicle. It's a good one. Too slow to get you in trouble, but the 4.0 does have the go power when you really need it.
 
I did not know the auto had a shift indicator.

For the trans leak, if it looks like it's coming out the front passenger side, check the dipstick tube. The earlier TJs used an o-ring rather than a grommet there. It's fine until it gets pulled out once. Then the age showed and it forever leaked there until I changed the o-ring.

My TJ was my first vehicle. It's a good one. Too slow to get you in trouble, but the 4.0 does have the go power when you really need it.

Yup, I’m pretty well versed on the 32RH. the leak is definitely the pump/torque converter seal. But that dipstick is a whip. After I rebuilt my other 32RH my dipstick has never sealed up again, even with a new o-ring. I have to use The Right Stuff every time I drop the thing (which was several times I’m sad to admit).

I haven’t checked the gear ratio yet but it feels like the 3.55 set. Should go slow enough to keep her out of trouble. :p
 
My daughter is getting ready to drive & has been saving her pennies for a car, but we’re a TJ household so I’ve been on the lookout for a cheap TJ with an auto, and particularly one with a reported transmission issue because that gives me maximum bargaining power.

Found one a couple weeks ago, a 97 that hadn’t run since May and had a bad transmission leak. When I found it, it was marked down to $6k from $8500, so I figured it was primed for our budget. Went and looked at it last week….

first off, no rust underneath, or anywhere for that matter. Green paint has a nice gold patina (by which I mean clear coat is gone on the hood & fenders), but the interior is great. We have some basic cleanup ahead of us, but no issues to speak of. Seats are great despite having seat covers (I feared the worst!). 33” tires have TONS of life left. Cracked windshield, but that’s solvable. Basically nothing wrong that I can see.

Dead battery as expected, but it immediately fired up from a jump start, and honestly purred like a kitten. Oil looked great. Trans dipstick was pretty well dry, and wouldn’t go into gear at all. I could see evidence of a drip from the bellhousing but nothing on the driveway or skid that would indicate a huge leak. Heat & AC work but can’t make it blow on the upper vents (resisted the urge to say “blow on my face). So basically we need a battery, some ATF, probably a pump seal, and then we’ll see what else comes up.

I kept the conversation going with the seller who had said she turned down a $4k offer (which was what I was wanting to pay). Sat on it for maybe 10 days, and offered $4500. She took a couple of days, but accepted. On FB marketplace the only automatics we’re all listed at over $8k, and anything listed in the 6 range was kinda trashed, so this looked like a good value in this market.

Wife drove us out there today with a gallon of ATF, cables, and a mess of tools. The plan was to jump it, dump the fluid into the trans, and make it drive the hour back home before it lost enough fluid to cause an issue. And hopefully not die because I forgot to steal the battery out of the 02.

I fully expected this thing to spew transmission fluid once I put it into neutral, but it didn’t. I figured the pump was shot…but nope! Went right into gear and was driving under its own power for just $30.

So my daughter completed the transaction…clean title, they’ve had it since 2004, the title shows 60k miles. 😝. Drive the hour home and checked the fluid. Was just above max when I filled it up, and there was no discernible loss after that drive. I’ll call that a win for now. Got a new battery & it fired right back up. Looks like we can focus on the little stuff with most of the big stuff no longer a pressing issue. The seal still needs to be done, but the jeep is 100% mobile for the time being so I can get it in a few weeks when I have a little more time.
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And the most important one of all:
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Good news and clean engine bay!
 
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IDK about that, everything I touch turns my hand solid black. I need that engine pressure wash treatment that one of our members does.... @PRNDL maybe?

@AndyG probably has a clean engine bay, if it's like his windshield, it gets cleaned several times a day :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
I had a break between calls, so I decided to bleed the brakes since the pedal was soft and who knows when it had last been maintained. What could go wrong. Rear passenger bleeder screw is stripped & plugged. Or was anyway. I finally broke it free, but it will only tighten so far before it gives way again. Luckily only a little fluid is now coming out so I'm not complete immobile. New wheel cylinders on the way.

I moved to the fronts, in the hopes that since most of the braking power is supplied by the fronts, maybe flushing them a little will help. Of course it came out BLACK. Got both sides running clear and now I have a VERY firm pedal despite a leak at the right rear. The rear drums would probably benefit from new parts as well, and I happen to already have shoes & springs on hand which were slated to go into my other 97. Once again, I suffer for my children.
 
I tried the Bleeping Jeep method of just replacing the wheel cylinders w/o disassembling/replacing everything, primarily because I didn't have a ton of time, but also because the hardware in there all looked fine. I've seen rotted brake springs etc, this stuff was a-ok. Shoes have tons of life left too.

1. identify all your wrench/socket sizes & make sure everything will fit.
  • For me it was a 3/8" line wrench to disconnect the brake line
  • 3/8" deep socket for the wheel cylinder bolts (you need to clear the backing plate & my power ratchet required the deep socket for clearance.
  • 8mm socket for the bleeder screw
  • cardboard to catch the brake fluid you're going to spill
  • Remove the bleeder screw from the new wheel cylinder
2. Jack the jeep, remove the tire & drum.

3. Now is a great time to verify that you can actually loosen the brake line from the back of the wheel cylinder.

4. Find the cable that goes over the top pin, down around to the star adjuster stuff. You'll want to remove the upper spring from the opposite side from that cable. The reasoning is that we're about to pull one of the shoes off to the side to clear room to get the old wheel cylinder out. The cable will keep that shoe in place, so removing the other spring will allow the other shoe to move around a little.

5. Remove the bolts on the back of the wheel cylinder.

6. OPTIONAL: remove the bleeder screw. Sometimes it makes it a little extra awkward to get the cylinder out.

7. Remove the brake line from the back of the cylinder.

8. Push that shoe out of the way, sideways and back toward the backing plate.

9. Remove the wheel cylinder.

10. Put the new cylinder into position, being sure to get the ears on the shoes into the cups on the new cylinder. Be sure you keep the equalizer bar & spring in position

11. Put a few threads worth of brake fitting into the back of the cylinder. It's easier to do this while the cylinder has some degrees of freedom.

12. Bolt in the cylinder at the backing plate.

13. Bump the displace shoe back into place & replace the spring. Make sure that equalizer bar & spring, and everything else is still in place.

14. Tighten the brake fitting & replace & tighten the bleeder screw.

15. Put the drum & tire back on.

16. Repeat on the other side. Note that the spring in step 4 is probably going to be on a different side.

17. Once done with both sides, bleed your brakes.

Each side took 15 minutes from jacking the jeep up to lowering it back down,
 
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