New Wizard / BMB tail lights?

There are no threaded inserts. The factory extrudes the sheet metal into a tube and then use a Type F thread cutting screw to mount the tail light. The screw threads are also the ground connection between the tail light lights and the tub.

No reason whatsoever to do it that way and that will just make the install more difficult. Iffen ya'll will let me know, I can include Keps nuts for the 12-24 mounting screws that will bite into the sheet metal and ground the screw that deforms the ground ring. If you don't know, a Keps nut has a captive toothed washer, they bite and lock very well.

If you don't know what you did, I'm more lost than you are.

Thanks. I am familiar with Keps nuts. Have to think 12-24 shouldn’t be too hard to find, but if you have them and can throw them in with plate relocation kit it would be awesome.

No idea what the PO did with mounting holes.

If I could get some feedback on the difficulties involved with inserting the 3 small marker light wires into the single gauge butt connectors, that would be helpful. We have no issues doing it and I realize fully that we have lots of practice. We paid very close attention to whether or not those needed a step down butt connector and for us even taking into account the various skill levels, we still believed the single gauge were easy to use.

A key point is you only want to twist them enough to get them to go in. If you twist more, that makes the bundle larger in diameter and you won't be able to get them inserted properly.

At 40 cents each, if I don't have to supply the step down versions, that would be better for me, if this is a problem I know the step down will solve, then I'll do it
There are four wires to bundle together for each of the side markers (four each white, black & red). I paired them and bundled the pairs. They were small and I do recall wishing for the step down connectors. It wasn't impossible but it was a PITA. Step downs would have made it as easy as the earlier connections.
After doing the first one I contemplated grabbing the solder connectors.
 
Thanks. I am familiar with Keps nuts. Have to think 12-24 shouldn’t be too hard to find, but if you have them and can throw them in with plate relocation kit it would be awesome.

No idea what the PO did with mounting holes.


There are four wires to bundle together for the side markers (four each white, black & red). I paired them and bundled the pairs. They were small and I do recall wishing for the step down connectors. It wasn't impossible but it was a PITA. Step downs would have made it as easy as the earlier connections.
After doing the first one I contemplated grabbing the solder connectors.

1 is a goober that isn't paying attention, 2 is a trend. We'll fix it from here forward and repack the hardware kits. Anyone that needs the step down connectors can send me a message.

My apologies, I meant 4 and typed 3 for some reason.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikekiM and Zorba
If I could get some feedback on the difficulties involved with inserting the 3 small marker light wires into the single gauge butt connectors, that would be helpful. We have no issues doing it and I realize fully that we have lots of practice. We paid very close attention to whether or not those needed a step down butt connector and for us even taking into account the various skill levels, we still believed the single gauge were easy to use.

A key point is you only want to twist them enough to get them to go in. If you twist more, that makes the bundle larger in diameter and you won't be able to get them inserted properly.

At 40 cents each, if I don't have to supply the step down versions, that would be better for me, if this is a problem I know the step down will solve, then I'll do it

I’m sitting here doing mine and I had no issues doing the first side.

I lightly twist them so that it’s uniform and they went right in.

Crimps are solid using my Klein pliers.
 
Does this picture depict the "proper" location or at least intended location of license plate light and plate relocation bracket?

1701629596974.png
 
The non-step down connector was just fine for connecting the side maker light.

We've put together at least 10 sets, we've tested many. In the bin of 22-18 gauge butt connectors are 100's that are too small and 100's that are just right. For some reason, we have never managed to get and use any of the small ones. I didn't find them until I dumped the bin out and started going through them checking for hole size.

So, now anyone who is in need of the correct size should get in touch and we'll send some out. If you aren't sure, compare it to the small end of the step downs, they should be that size, no smaller.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: Apparition
We've put together at least 10 sets, we've tested many. In the bin of 22-18 gauge butt connectors are 100's that are too small and 100's that are just right. For some reason, we have never managed to get and use any of the small ones. I didn't find them until I dumped the bin out and started going through them checking for hole size.

So, now anyone who is in need of the correct size should get in touch and we'll send some out. If you aren't sure, compare it to the small end of the step downs, they should be that size, no smaller.

All mine went together no problem. Should be good to go with the lights.

I’ve come to like the non-insulated splices, I’ve not used them before but they crimp easier and tighter than my insulated connectors.

My problem now is that I am unable to get the factory light connector unplugged. Ran out of light so I stopped trying.

The old plug has never been unplugged in almost 18 years and is so full of Moab dust it’s not even wiggling at all.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: RINC
All mine went together no problem. Should be good to go with the lights.

I’ve come to like the non-insulated splices, I’ve not used them before but they crimp easier and tighter than my insulated connectors.

My problem now is that I am unable to get the factory light connector unplugged. Ran out of light so I stopped trying.

The old plug has never been unplugged in almost 18 years and is so full of Moab dust it’s not even wiggling at all.

Push the two connectors together very tightly, blow out the dust with some compressed air, should come apart then. You have to push them together to take the pressure off of the release latch so it can move.
 
Push the two connectors together very tightly, blow out the dust with some compressed air, should come apart then. You have to push them together to take the pressure off of the release latch so it can move.

I hadn’t considered air, that will help. I tried pushing together first, but I’ll give it another go when I get a chance. May not be for a couple days.
 
I’ve come to like the non-insulated splices, I’ve not used them before but they crimp easier and tighter than my insulated connectors.
Have to agree with this. I thought I was really keen on the solder/heat shrink connectors. They seemed to provide a very tight, waterproof connection. I had to buy a new crimping tool for this project since none of mine were compatible with the non-insulated connectors, so now I need to buy a host of non-insulated connectors to go with the new crimping tool!!

🥴🥴🥴
 
  • Like
Reactions: RINC and voodooridr
I’ve come to like the non-insulated splices, I’ve not used them before but they crimp easier and tighter than my insulated connectors.

You can also see the crimp, keep it back from the ends so you don't shear the wires off, and with the solid or brazed barrel type, it really is a very good connection and when you combine it with that type heat shrink, there isn't much you can do better. Sealed, strain relieved, solid connection with very little chance of failure.
 
The stock screws pull the holes in the tub outward so the housing sits on them and not the tub.

I like the advice you've been giving to this effect. I need to fix my right rear after a 'touch' car wash ripped out my rear tail light. Body had a slight bulge after that...
 
  • Sad
Reactions: ColoJeep and RINC