No electrical power

Catspajaumas

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Original poster
Joined
Oct 28, 2023
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8
Location
Gig Harbor WA
2006 Wrangler X
Turned ignition on, started engine, ran for 1 second then everything dead. No dash lights, headlights etc.
Checked the obvious things, battery, starter, fuses and relays in engine compartment. The 2 blade fuses all read 3.8v only.
Swapped the relays around all to no avail.
Had replaced the ignition switch a couple years ago.
Took protective cover off steering wheel checked no wires loose, shorted etc.
Not sure what to do next.
Any help appreciated, this one's got me stumped.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Mike
 
So if you did the draw test (load test I’m assuming) try doing the same thing where the battery connects to the pdc. Maybe the cable is corroded and not passing current. In fact I’d put your meter on the pdc connection and see what you have there.
 
I get the impression it only did it once and hasn’t started since. Skim lets you attempt a start over and over? 3.8 volts on the fuses means voltage isn’t getting to the pdc?

Update:
Did load test on all cable ends, all read 12plus.
Left car alone for couple hours, went out and it started! Drove around, did shopping stop and start no problem.
Came home, left car for about an hour. Went out to check it,
Started ran for 1 second and then no power anywhere again.

Did tighten all +/- ends and made sure all good contact before trying to start earlier.

Have ordered a new ignition switch and actuator. Hopefully this will solve problem.
Thanks to all who have contributed, if you can think of something else please let me know.

Will update after installing new parts.

Not familiar with term skim, please advise further.
 
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Not familiar with term skim, please advise further.
Security Key Immobilizer Module. If it doesn't detect the right chip in a SKIM ignition key it will kill the engine 2 seconds after the engine is started displaying an amber 'key' symbol on the instrument cluster display. Not all TJs have a SKIM system, it was an extra-cost option.
 
Security Key Immobilizer Module. If it doesn't detect the right chip in a SKIM ignition key it will kill the engine 2 seconds after the engine is started displaying an amber 'key' symbol on the instrument cluster display. Not all TJs have a SKIM system, it was an extra-cost option.

Thanks for update. I will start using the spare key and see what happens.
 
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It still puzzles me that you only have 3.8 volts present on some of your fuses. I’d have to suspect your battery might be a problem.
I had a Chevy truck battery that left me in a pickle at a cold rainy secluded boat ramp with the boat in the water. The battery never showed any problems till that one time. Don’t know where the idea came from, but I gave it a good whack on the side with a hammer. Went from completely dead to starting the truck like nothing was wrong.
So I gotta ask again why the 3.8 volt reading on the fuses?
 
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2006 Wrangler X
Turned ignition on, started engine, ran for 1 second then everything dead. No dash lights, headlights etc.
Checked the obvious things, battery, starter, fuses and relays in engine compartment. The 2 blade fuses all read 3.8v only.
Swapped the relays around all to no avail.
Had replaced the ignition switch a couple years ago.
Took protective cover off steering wheel checked no wires loose, shorted etc.
Not sure what to do next.
Any help appreciated, this one's got me stumped.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Mike

Check battery voltage a PDC under hood and check the ground connection at the block.
 
Check battery voltage a PDC under hood and check the ground connection at the block.

Checked load voltage at all different points, cleaned all connections.

Just put a 3 month old battery on car, same problem. Put removed battery on other vehicle and it works great.

Back to square one.
 
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Could be the PCM's not putting out the correct 5v.

Someone else confirmed this my disconnecting the 5v source out of the PCM and using another 12v to 5v supply.

-Mac
 
Checked load voltage at all different points, cleaned all connections.

Just put a 3 month old battery on car, same problem. Put removed battery on other vehicle and it works great.

Back to square one.

What it the voltage at the PDC (under hood fuse box)where the power comes in from the battery cable? Check the voltage under the lid at the end where the battery cable is bolted to the pdc. If it is the 3.2 volts it is the short section of wire to the positive terminal. If the voltage is good there check the fuses in that box if they are 3 volts clean the connection where that is bolted.
You can trace this down using a voltage drop test. To perform on a positive cable, attach one lead of a volt meter to the positive terminal of the battery and the other lead to the outer end at the starter. Your volt meter will read the voltage dropping through the cable. Under 1/2 a volt is acceptable. Using this method you can go through circuits to see which circuits you are losing voltage through. You can perform this on the negative cable also or any other circuit.
The area circled is where the power comes in to feed the fuses. The positive cable should be bolted to the studs.

IMG_0609.webp


IMG_0608.webp
 
Last edited:
G'day All
Update
Checked voltages as suggested. All within specs.

Problem is the problem is not there anymore so I could only get readings as if everything works properly.

Will have to wait for problem to reappear to check voltages.

Just hope it doesn't happen when i'm out!

Will update again when can get true voltages.