Nth Degree Mobility Owners Resource Thread

[Daryl]

I don't know if there are different skids for each t-case. I have the 241, I don't see any clearance marks. And mine came with no body lift.

Same.

 

[Wildman]

There was a different part# for a Non-Rubicon vs Rubicon TT... But these were the notes in the Rubicon install instructions...

Kit Part Numbers TT14010 (’97-‘02 w/ 32RE automatic trans)
TT14013 DIY version
TT14011 (’97-’02 with 2.5L 4-cyl. + AX-5 manual trans)
TT14014 DIY version
TT14012 (’97-‘02 w/ AX-15 or NV3550 manual trans)
TT14015 DIY version
TT14020 (’03-’06 w/ NV3550 or NSG370 manual trans)
TT14022 DIY version
TT14030 (’03-‘06 w/ 42RLE automatic trans)
TT14032 DIY version
Vehicle App’s ’97-‘03 TJ Wranglers *except ’03-06 Rubicon models*

Kit Part Numbers TT14021 (Rubicon TJ/LJ with manual trans)
TT14031 (Rubicon TJ/LJ with automatic trans)
Vehicle App’s ‘03+ TJ Wrangler and Unlimited Rubicon models ONLY

Note: Transfer Case Clearances. There is no ‘magic’ to gaining ground clearance. The significant ground clearance gains that the Tummy Tucker skid plate provides are accomplished by ‘tucking things up’ by reducing some of the space between the floor pan, powertrain (trans and t-case), and the skid plate to the bare minimums (usually ¼ to 3/8”). To do this we have designed several different application-specific TT’s, but even with this level of ‘custom fit’, the substantial factory-build variation from one Wrangler to the next may cause you to encounter ‘touch’ conditions that require minor adjustments – these are your responsibility to correct as Nth° has made every effort to assure that the TT will fit perfectly on the Wrangler years and models it was designed for. Be especially aware that the frames of ’03-‘06 TJ’s are extremely variable in dimension compared to previous years, with brackets and holes that can be significantly out of position compared to Jeep’s own CAD models (which were used to design the TT). There is an appendix of solutions to known issues that have been encountered in a few cases. Also - if everything is adjusted properly - you should not have any contact issues during normal driving even though clearances around the t/case are reduced with the TT. Do not drive your Jeep with the t-case rubbing either the floor or TT for extended periods – trans or t-case failure may eventually result! Unless you are using enough body lift, installation of a Tummy Tucker on a Rubicon TJ requires floor modifications (see table in step 4).

STEP 4

Step 4: Floor Dimple for NV241OR ‘Roc-Trac’ t-case. Depending on your installation, you will need to make a ‘dimple’ in the floor to create clearance for the case-half boss that is above and slightly outboard of the front output. Note that this dimple is in an area of the floor that is ‘double walled’ – so the dimple will not affect the interior of the vehicle. To determine whether you need to make a clearance dimple in your case, consult the chart below and find the combination of TT, body lift, and motor mount lift that applies to you. You should have been supplied with a small piece of steel tubing that has been cut in half lengthwise – this is the ‘dimple tool’. Move your floor jack or jackstand to a position directly under the front output and in line with the junction of the two case halves; lower the t-case enough to place the tool over the boss as shown in figure 2. The boss is slightly shorter than the tool, so make sure the tool is centered front-toback over the boss. You will also need to tie the tcase to the driver’s frame rail to keep the t-case from sliding into the tunnel as you try to make the dimple – a ratchet strap will work for this. (Do not pull the t-case towards the driver’s frame, just restrain it from moving farther away.) Create the dimple by jacking the t-case+dimple tool up against the floor and letting the weight of the Jeep cause the floor to ‘dimple’. For most installations, determining when you have created a large enough dimple is simple: as you jack the t-case up against the floor, watch the round ‘bulge’ on the back of the case (to the right of the dimple tool in figure 3). When this bulge is nearly touching the floor (about 1/16” gap), you are done and can lower the t-case again. Note that you will nearly lift the left-side tires of the Jeep off the ground during this process, so if doing it on an overhead lift, be careful and safe! Fig. 3 Fig. 2 Once the TT is in place you will be able to check clearance at the dimple – you want to have at least ¼” (manuals) to 3/8” (autos) of clearance between the t-case boss and the floor. However, due to variations in your measurements, etc., be prepared to repeat this step if you find that you do not have enough clearance during the check after step11. When finished, lower the jack and replace it to the rear-output area (to be out of the way for installation of the TT skid). Remove the dimple tool from the top of the t-case. Step 4+: Bellhousing Clearance - 42RLE 4-speed auto Only. Wranglers with the 4-speed auto require clearancing between the top of the bellhousing and the floor/tunnel. After the dimple has been created, lower the t-case until there is about 3/8” of clearance where the dimple was made, then visually check the top of the bellhousing (it’s visible from the driver’s side.) There is a longitudinal rib on the top of the bellhousing that may be touching the lateral ‘pinch flange’ on the body where the dash panel (‘firewall’) meets the tunnel. The body flange can be bent up out of the way using a long pry bar from the driver’s side. You will confirm if there is clearance on the test drive after installation is complete. You may need to pry for more clearance at that time.

 

[Mullet Jeeper]

Thanks for finding this stuff. Ill dig through it later and see if i can find what the difference between the two is.

 

[Mullet Jeeper]

My dad was going through his old winch bag from his last jeep and found these old Nth degree wrenches in it.

 

[astjp2]

Here's the only picture I have of it.

View attachment 665383

But I was adapting a V-8 auto to mine so it's not going to look like what you need. Here is what's in the PDF.

View attachment 665386

• Nth Degree Tummy Tucker (non-Rubicon) Installation Instructions

And then it's got these rubber mounts which All J has in stock.

View attachment 665384

View attachment 665385

https://www.alljproducts.com/nth-degree

I wish I had an iron worker and a press brake, I would make a different style with to replace my Ultra low UCF mount.

 

[Mullet Jeeper]

Mock up for building the new transmission mount has begun and I got a nice box from allj products with some goodies in it . Look at all that clearance! And how nice that thing hugs that 241!

 

[The Ontario jeeper]

Trying to figure out if this diff slider is a Nth degree one or not. I have the matching front as well. They were on a set of rubicon axles I picked up for parts.

 

[Mullet Jeeper]

View attachment 693660
Trying to figure out if this diff slider is a Nth degree one or not. I have the matching front as well. They were on a set of rubicon axles I picked up for parts.

That looks identical to the one I’ve got on my shelf

 

[Daryl]

View attachment 693660
Trying to figure out if this diff slider is a Nth degree one or not. I have the matching front as well. They were on a set of rubicon axles I picked up for parts.

Look like the one on my Jeep.

 

[MoparOscar]

Hey guys, new to the forum as I’m currently in the market for a TJ and have my eyes on a 06 Rubi with the 4.5 long arm kit. My main concern is the gyro joint bushing. The rest of the jeep looks solid. My question is, has anyone had any recent success sourcing those bushing with Heather @ All J? I’ve tried reaching out and only get their voicemail. Im not sure if this should be a deal breaker for purchasing this TJ

 

[Wildman]

Hey guys, new to the forum as I’m currently in the market for a TJ and have my eyes on a 06 Rubi with the 4.5 long arm kit. My main concern is the gyro joint bushing. The rest of the jeep looks solid. My question is, has anyone had any recent success sourcing those bushing with Heather @ All J? I’ve tried reaching out and only get their voicemail. Im not sure if this should be a deal breaker for purchasing this TJ

If you contact JeepWest he's replaced the Gyro joints with Johnny Joints instead.

 

[Daryl]

Hey guys, new to the forum as I’m currently in the market for a TJ and have my eyes on a 06 Rubi with the 4.5 long arm kit. My main concern is the gyro joint bushing. The rest of the jeep looks solid. My question is, has anyone had any recent success sourcing those bushing with Heather @ All J? I’ve tried reaching out and only get their voicemail. Im not sure if this should be a deal breaker for purchasing this TJ

Email Heather.

 

[Mullet Jeeper]

I bought a set last month. Just call them

 

[Nosend TJ]

Great thread. Just acquired a 2004 Rubicon over the net. Upon inspection, it was chocked full of 9th degree mobility parts. Stinger, long arms, tummy tucker, track bar relocation stuff, custom drive shafts and other stuff.

Jeep spent most of its time in San Diego. Built by a USMC officer who was a Astro Physics major. He built a nice ride. I’m still learning what I bought.

Thanks to those who contributed to this thread.

 

[Wildman]

Great thread. Just acquired a 2004 Rubicon over the net. Upon inspection, it was chocked full of 9th degree mobility parts. Stinger, long arms, tummy tucker, track bar relocation stuff, custom drive shafts and other stuff.

Jeep spent most of its time in San Diego. Built by a USMC officer who was a Astro Physics major. He built a nice ride. I’m still learning what I bought.

Thanks to those who contributed to this thread.

Welcome to the forum... Enjoy your Jeep and post up some pictures when you have a chance...

 

[alancurtis2]

Just acquired a 2004 Rubicon with NthDegree long-arm. I think it is the 4.5" long-arm lift. 50k miles.
Will post pix later.
Very happy to find this thread!

It sits lower than I'd expect for 4.5" lift, is there a less than 4.5" that works with the long-arm kit?

alan