Odd incident this morning

Fonz54

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Sounds like a ground issue - (not sure about the bubbling sound). Your Negative terminal looks pretty corroded. Take it off clean it up and secure it nice and tight then see if it happens again.
 

All 4 Wheelin'

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So, I went out and took a look and some pics for ya.

The coolant level looks fine in the overflow reservoir. The radiator cap was on nice and tight (though I think I'll get a replacement just in case).

Battery terminals had a bit of corrosion on them. The battery is practically new (less than 6mos old) and the guy at Advance put it in for me. Put the anti-corrosion stuff on the terminals and all.

View attachment 148318

View attachment 148319

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View attachment 148321
Clean your battery terminals and cable clamps. Those are corroded, especially the positive terminal.
 
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CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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Nope, I certainly have a coolant leak somewhere. lol

Went out this morning to do some running around for the family. Was coming down the hill to my house and the check gauges light came on - looked over and the coolant temp gauge was pegged.

Thankfully I was right in my driveway and shut it off. Immediately heard some very aggressive gurgling coming from the overflow bottle.

Here's a vid for ya:

https://flic.kr/p/2iLeZbv
I'm going to give it a minute and see if the coolant level in the overflow bottle is low. If so, then I've got a good leak - if not, then I think the radiator cap or something is the issue (vacuum or something).

EDIT: I'm guessing a leak or the heater core is dead since I turned on the heater and it was just blowing cold air. It's also now parked until I can call AAA and get it to a shop.
 
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CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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I put about half a jug of coolant in it (apparently I the line I thought it was on wasn't it) and now it's to the full mark. Also replaced the radiator cap with a new one.

Turned it on, warmed up to temp and was still climbing past the mid-point. I shut it off before it got to 3/4 on the gauge (don't want to do anything bad to it).

This time there wasn't much gurgling going on - nothing nearly as aggressive - and it was much harder to hear. There also wasn't any dripping underneath or anything pooling under the jeep - so I don't think I have a leak. It wasn't leaking inside the passenger footwell either, so I'm hoping that means I don't have a heater core leak.
 

flyinfish

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You've got a big air pocket in the cooling system and and a thermostat that may not be opening properly at operating temp. try taking the radiator cap off when cold, fill with water, turn heater temp to hot and start it up. Let the engine warm up and watch the water level in radiator and see if it will purge the air pocket. Hopefully the water level will drop and then add more water. A squeeze on the upper radiator hose and you'll know if it's dry. Check your gauge, put your cap on and then shut off. Double check fluid level in overflow reservoir at hot line.
Just a note, as it heats up it will want to puke water as it expands until the air gets expelled. It should take about 15 Min or so.

Some vehicles are very easy to get the air out and others it's only possible by unscrewing a relief port at the high point.

The positive battery needs cleaning to remove corrosion. Take hot water and pour it on the corroded terminal and it will disolve it. Then pull the battery terminal and clean post and terminal. Also you should take cable to terminal connection apart and make sure it's clean with wire brush and is tight.
 
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CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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You've got a big air pocket in the cooling system and and a thermostat that may not be opening properly at operating temp. try taking the radiator cap off when cold, fill with water, turn heater temp to hot and start it up. Let the engine warm up and watch the water level in radiator and see if it will purge the air pocket. Hopefully the water level will drop and then add more water. A squeeze on the upper radiator hose and you'll know if it's dry. Check your gauge, put your cap on and then shut off. Double check fluid level in overflow reservoir at hot line.
Just a note, as it heats up it will want to puke water as it expands until the air gets expelled. It should take about 15 Min or so.

Some vehicles are very easy to get the air out and others it's only possible by unscrewing a relief port at the high point.

The positive battery needs cleaning to remove corrosion. Take hot water and pour it on the corroded terminal and it will disolve it. Then pull the battery terminal and clean post and terminal. Also you should take cable to terminal connection apart and make sure it's clean with wire brush and is tight.
That's a great post - thanks for the help!

I wouldn't mind doing a flush of the coolant system myself, but I don't have anywhere to dispose of it and we have pets as well as neighbor pets. Last thing I want is any of them lapping up a spill or something.
 
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Phil Younger

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You might get a preview of the head condition by looking at engine oil and antifreeze -- if it's not on the ground, or traces in pockets on top of engine, wet under the heater core, etc -then it will be showing up in the oil or oil in the antifreeze. Gotta go somewhere IF it not just an old air pocket that has been trapped a long while.

I did chase a small leak in water pump seals on a couple of engines before i found them -- the ford 302 would leave traces on top the engine and the damn Chrysler minivan told it's problem by increased "idler pulley noise" which i chased until the pump (which sat underneath) totally let go and lost all but a gallon of coolant in one block distance.
 
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CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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You might get a preview of the head condition by looking at engine oil and antifreeze -- if it's not on the ground, or traces in pockets on top of engine, wet under the heater core, etc -then it will be showing up in the oil or oil in the antifreeze. Gotta go somewhere IF it not just an old air pocket that has been trapped a long while.
Well, it's already at the shop. So, I'm waiting to hear back from them. Should hear from them in an hour or two. I'll check when I get down to pick it up.
 
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Nimbley

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I just called the shop and asked if they could do a head check. He said that when they get it torn down and repressureize, he'll be able to tell if it's a head gasket issue. He think it's just a thermostat issue at the moment - fingers crossed it's just the thermostat!
Ask the shop specifically for a block check. They can do it before tearing it down and you spending any more money. It uses a blue liquid that will turn yellow when combustion gases are present in the cooling system and will detect even the smallest combustion leaks.

A blown head gasket or cracked head won’t always put oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The coolant maybe going out the tailpipe.
 
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CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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Ask the shop specifically for a block check. They can do it before tearing it down and you spending any more money. It uses a blue liquid that will turn yellow when combustion gases are present in the cooling system.

A blown head gasket or cracked head won’t always put oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The coolant maybe going out the tailpipe.
Whether or not it's a head gasket, the fluid needs flushed anyway. I've had it for two years and it's not been done since I've had it. I also don't know how long it's been since it was done before I had it. So it's just something that needs done regardless.