Oil Covered Engine Block

Nick B

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Original poster
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
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36
Location
Massachusetts
Previous owner had a leaky valve cover gasket and fixed it, but neglected to clean the oil that had leaked down the block. the passenger side of the block is very visible and I don't want to see oil all over it anymore.

What methods are you guys using to get that oil off that's safe for the electrical and relatively cheap?

Also an unrelated question, but does brand matter with accessory belts for the 4.0L? Mine is pretty beat from a bad power steering pump and is noisy when cold.
 
As far as a Belt I use Gates. Simple Green, spray on let sit a few min. and then use elbow grease and a brush. Or power washer..
 
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Gates makes great belts and that's what I'd suggest. Unfortunately I just looked up what I put on my TJ and it's a Continental. Luckily it's not too unfortunate because they're very high on the list of good belts.

The easiest way to deal with the oily block is SHUT THE HOOD and quit looking at it.

Since that doesn't seem to work for many people I'll ask this. It it just oily looking or did it leak so long that it's 1/8" thick (or more) and mixed with dust, mud, sand and God knows what else? If it's thick I'd start out pressure washing it with the engine running. I'm not sure what I'd do with whatever is left after that, probably close the hood. I'm sure others have better answers for the not thick stuff.
 
I've always had good luck with Gunk. Had the same thing when I got mine, I was sure I had a leak from somewhere but it turned out to be residual from previous repairs. I like to get the engine warm, spray it on, let it sit for a bit and then get in there with a soft brush the best I can.

Keep the water away from the distributor, and do your best to avoid the PDC, connectors on the firewall, etc... They're sealed connectors but its not uncommon to have electrical issues if some water gets in there.
 
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De greaser, some water, rags, elbow grease. There is no easy way, takes some time and a bit of patience. YouTube has many engine detail videos for your viewing enjoyment
 
Gates belts. I like simple green, most any commercial brand of degreaser (Gunk is very good) or just use a mixture of around 50/50 of regular gas and diesel. Spray any of them onto a warm engine and let it soak for at least a 1/3 hour then pressure wash off.
[Unsolicited opinion] Moog suspension and steering parts.
 
Continental is the way to go - pretty much the consensus was Goodyear Gatorback- but continental took them over I think.
If its not dripping on your driveway, and its not thickly caked with sand & grease- where its more like a somewhat shiny "film"- I would just leave it- keeps the exposed metal surfaces from rusting, cause your gonna get some from changing the oil filter- almost no way around that.— But if you need to clean it up, warm it up for about 6-8 minutes and spray it down with the CRC engine cleaner / degreaser. I use to be a old skool gunk guy from the '70's - but I tried like 4 different ones and the CRC not only was better but less expensive
 
Gates makes great belts and that's what I'd suggest. Unfortunately I just looked up what I put on my TJ and it's a Continental. Luckily it's not too unfortunate because they're very high on the list of good belts.

The easiest way to deal with the oily block is SHUT THE HOOD and quit looking at it.

Since that doesn't seem to work for many people I'll ask this. It it just oily looking or did it leak so long that it's 1/8" thick (or more) and mixed with dust, mud, sand and God knows what else? If it's thick I'd start out pressure washing it with the engine running. I'm not sure what I'd do with whatever is left after that, probably close the hood. I'm sure others have better answers for the not thick stuff.
It's a decent layer of oil but not super thick but there isn't a ton of other dust and grime in it. I want to also clean it because I may sell it in the future and some buyers get scared of some oil on the side.
 
I've always had good luck with Gunk. Had the same thing when I got mine, I was sure I had a leak from somewhere but it turned out to be residual from previous repairs. I like to get the engine warm, spray it on, let it sit for a bit and then get in there with a soft brush the best I can.

Keep the water away from the distributor, and do your best to avoid the PDC, connectors on the firewall, etc... They're sealed connectors but its not uncommon to have electrical issues if some water gets in there.
I once opened the hood when there was water on it and soaked the 2 main wiring harness plugs in the middle and the jeep had all sorts of issues. I don't have a distributor but I'll cover the electrical plugs with plastic bags or cardboard.
 
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De greaser, some water, rags, elbow grease. There is no easy way, takes some time and a bit of patience. YouTube has many engine detail videos for your viewing enjoyment
I'll try and make a day out of it but I just need the weather to cooperate because there's no way I'm going to do this in the garage.
 
Degreaser, scrape off the thick stuff, pressure wash. Might take a couple of cleaning sessions to get it perfect.
 
I once opened the hood when there was water on it and soaked the 2 main wiring harness plugs in the middle and the jeep had all sorts of issues. I don't have a distributor but I'll cover the electrical plugs with plastic bags or cardboard.

Yeah, just do your best to focus the water on the block and the area you're trying to clean, you'll be good.
 
Spray the oil covered areas with simple green, let sit for 10 minutes or so and hit it with a pressure washer
Either this or..

Wipe the sludge off with a few rags (throw them away after) and hose down the remainder with brake parts cleaner. Will be clean as a whistle.
 
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Brake cleaner can be hard on rubber hoses and electrical. But nothing else cuts through thick gunk like it does.