I wouldn't go that far. I could only imagine where my Jeep would be if golf wasn't in my life
Operation Phoenix
- Thread starter macleanflood
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I wouldn't go that far. I could only imagine where my Jeep would be if golf wasn't in my life
Golf = waste of a good MX track
If you drink enough and have a fast cart it’s kinda like both.
Well, I'd have to drink so much that I pass out to have as much fun as I used to riding MX, so I'd probably not remember it. If I don't remember it, it didn't happen, and if it didn't happen, it wasn't fun!
Golf = waste of a good MX track
Golf = waste of a long range rifle range
Or
Golf = waste of a great cow pasture
All of that. Stupid game.
In 1994 I played in an Alumni golf tournament. I won closest to the pin on a par 3. I quit while I was ahead.
Now I just drink. I can always quit tomorrow!
Funny. I had a similar experience. Hit the longest drive on a hole where that was the challenge at a social tournament during my training. Total luck but amazing. You know that feeling when you hit a baseball and you don’t have to watch because you know its out of the park? Just like that. If it was repeatable, it could almost suck you in. Almost.
Yeah, total luck is right!
I won that sleeve of golf balls though! It’s amazing how it feels when you do something ergonomically and technically right! I’m sure John Daly felt like you felt daily. Pretty cool what you did.
Got a few more misfire codes. They only happen when I leave the engine idling. Was running the air compressor blowing out conduit.
On a whim I decided to check the cap and rotor...
Hit them with some sandpaper and ordered another on Amazon. $70 for both. Went with Accel. Got five years out of the first one. Good enough for me.
Engine sure isn't running smoothly. Definitely glad I'm working towards a rebuilt engine.
View: https://youtu.be/zzUSR2w1G9E?si=0nL9htCyRAV6mnxP
-Mac
On a whim I decided to check the cap and rotor...
Hit them with some sandpaper and ordered another on Amazon. $70 for both. Went with Accel. Got five years out of the first one. Good enough for me.
Engine sure isn't running smoothly. Definitely glad I'm working towards a rebuilt engine.
View: https://youtu.be/zzUSR2w1G9E?si=0nL9htCyRAV6mnxP
-Mac
Maybe its just the way it recorded but that sounds really bad! Like multiple stuck lifters maybe.
Replaced the cap and rotor. Also ordered a Felpro head gasket kit and studs/bolts since O'Reilly's gave me 15 percent off for spending more the $75 plus shipped home rather than spending an hour driving into town.
Also dropped off my new to me intake at a powder coating shop in town for high heat Cerekoting. Want to see if it drops my IATs.
-Mac
Also dropped off my new to me intake at a powder coating shop in town for high heat Cerekoting. Want to see if it drops my IATs.
-Mac
I’m interested in the change in IAT with ceramic coating the intake. Will you have data? I did that on my Banks header but coating the intake too makes sense with the very sub-optimal exhaust right under intake set up on our tractor motors. Let us know!
I'll start watching my IATs now. Might be able to log with my ODB scanner.
Dropped a quart of ATF down the yap and let the engine idle for 20 (and pressure washed off the mud), let it sit for an hour...ran it for another 20, then changed the oil. 3228 miles since the last oil change.
While idling the check engine light came on...so cap and rotor didn't solve the misfire.
Also cleaned up my Glowshift oil pressure and temperature sensor mess. Determined the oil leak is coming from the back of the temp sensor...I bottomed it out in a T before I figured out it needed an extension. Ordered a replacement from Glowshift for $20.
Changed the oil. No change in engine behavior.
-Mac
Dropped a quart of ATF down the yap and let the engine idle for 20 (and pressure washed off the mud), let it sit for an hour...ran it for another 20, then changed the oil. 3228 miles since the last oil change.
While idling the check engine light came on...so cap and rotor didn't solve the misfire.
Also cleaned up my Glowshift oil pressure and temperature sensor mess. Determined the oil leak is coming from the back of the temp sensor...I bottomed it out in a T before I figured out it needed an extension. Ordered a replacement from Glowshift for $20.
Changed the oil. No change in engine behavior.
-Mac
Block stripped. Going to the machine shop tomorrow.
If you're going to be putting the engine together (bare block or long block) — don't forget this stupid part when you put on the timing cover.
I had to tear up a full timing cover gasket and then re-install with just a top-half timing cover gasket because the oil pan was already installed — when I realized this 'damper' (forget the official name) was still sitting on my workbench.
Sharing my misery in hopes you avoid it!
Pre-ordered a Stage 2 kit from Clegg after talking things through with their techs. They only have two cranks in stock and they're not expecting more for 4-6 weeks.
They recommended not cutting the block down .30 thou and just using the stage 2 pistons.
Added in bushed rods for easy assembly, moly rings, balancing, 24 lbs injectors.
Soon as the machine shop confirms my standard piston size in a few weeks I'll call Clegg and they'll ship my kit.
Machine shop is going to be around $700 and that includes cam bearings.
Intake should be done with powder coating in a week too.
My engine meanwhile is sounding worse. I hope it holds together long enough to get my block back from the machine shop.
Going to TJ fest in Sand Hollow in May. So I either need to ghetto fix my existing engine ASAP or build this stroker.
Hoping to have the engine put together in the first week of April so I can drive it around 2-3 weeks before road tripping it south.
Thinking about doing a Zoom meeting or YouTube live stream and we can have an engine building party. Maybe get some of the Oregon boys over to help.
Meanwhile I'm throwing misfire codes constantly. Wish I had ordered a distributor... they're $70 with a cap and rotor. Mine has a lot more play than I think is socially acceptable. And I paid $60 for a cap and rotor. I did order a crank position sensor...so I'll try that and if it doesn't work at least I have a spare.
And I need to decide if I want to buy a Dorman oil pan for $70 or accept the slightly dented ones I have.
-Mac
They recommended not cutting the block down .30 thou and just using the stage 2 pistons.
Added in bushed rods for easy assembly, moly rings, balancing, 24 lbs injectors.
Soon as the machine shop confirms my standard piston size in a few weeks I'll call Clegg and they'll ship my kit.
Machine shop is going to be around $700 and that includes cam bearings.
Intake should be done with powder coating in a week too.
My engine meanwhile is sounding worse. I hope it holds together long enough to get my block back from the machine shop.
Going to TJ fest in Sand Hollow in May. So I either need to ghetto fix my existing engine ASAP or build this stroker.
Hoping to have the engine put together in the first week of April so I can drive it around 2-3 weeks before road tripping it south.
Thinking about doing a Zoom meeting or YouTube live stream and we can have an engine building party. Maybe get some of the Oregon boys over to help.
Meanwhile I'm throwing misfire codes constantly. Wish I had ordered a distributor... they're $70 with a cap and rotor. Mine has a lot more play than I think is socially acceptable. And I paid $60 for a cap and rotor. I did order a crank position sensor...so I'll try that and if it doesn't work at least I have a spare.
And I need to decide if I want to buy a Dorman oil pan for $70 or accept the slightly dented ones I have.
-Mac
Mac drinks the stroker koolaid...!
I'd probably trust the flange being shaped correctly on a stock pan,rather than dorman
What are you doing for a cam? Ask golden gorrilla about the newcomer recommended cam bearing brand. Some can be very soft
I'd probably trust the flange being shaped correctly on a stock pan,rather than dorman
What are you doing for a cam? Ask golden gorrilla about the newcomer recommended cam bearing brand. Some can be very soft
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