Only because our axles are pushed too far back. We all trimmed the back of the the wheel opening. The top clears.
Outboard shock question
- Thread starter 04LJ_TX
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Only because our axles are pushed too far back. We all trimmed the back of the the wheel opening. The top clears.
Correctly at a 50/50, yes. But without cutting the body, your limiting the uptravel. Perhaps I am missing something
But in this case, with both jeeps staying the same, you need to bump for that interference. Goes back to not utilizing the full 12" of travel.
Not if the axle pulled forward into the right spot. Ours are not, which led to the body cut.
Correctly at a 50/50, yes. But without cutting the body, your limiting the uptravel. Perhaps I am missing something
Basically, we did it wrong. Or did it the hard way.
Yes the outboard TJ is going to out perform the non outboard TJ.
Yes the outboard TJ will have more articulation due to more up travel as well as down travel.
Another key is stability which relates to the out board along with the tuning. You can get better stability out of factory mounted tuned shocks, but you can maximize the stability by out boarding.
I installed the mid arm, ran stock location shocks. Then switched to 12” 2.0RR front and rear. Major difference.
You don’t need a mid arm to out board your shocks. There’s plenty of reason and benefits to out-boarding on short arms.
You're right, outboarding is fucking stupid and no one should ever do it.
My question is based off my TJ and how it is setup. With 3" of lift, 0.5" BL, all else being stock configuration and a typical aftermarket adjustable rear TB, SYE, and properly adjusted pinion angle, 2" of bump stop extension, my tires are not the limiter, but my TB hits the rear cross member in two places at full bump. The angled TB relocation bracket just misses the tub. The lower arms are shortened 1/4" shorter than a stock lower arm, which puts the jounce bumper nice and centered to the lower perch pad at full bump. So, to get more up, you'd have to increase the BL, but you still have TB interference with the cross member. Moving the axle forward more is not a viable option, so you try to bend the TB in such a way that you can get that extra inch, but not bend it in such a way that you now have interference with the exhaust wrap over the axle, or the the upper arms hitting the TB. My rear shock ride height is at 19". I'm running a 8ish" travel shock in the stock locations and get roughly 4" of up, 4" of down.
So, with these parameters explained, if we add another inch of lift with 4" springs, add 3/4" more BL with an 1.25 BL, we now can get 5.75" of up, but not without doing some shenanigans with the TB to get it to clear the rear cross member that ain't gonna happen. So, we can outboard, run a 12" shock, but I'd like to know exactly what needs done with the TB to make that happen.
That is pretty much the response I was expecting from you. It actually is helpful though. Guess there's more than one reason why the Currie bar is 3 times the price of most others.
I'd ask Blaine but I think I've spent all my "brah" coupons and am now on the black list.
That is pretty much the response I was expecting from you. It actually is helpful though. Guess there's more than one reason why the Currie bar is 3 times the price of most others.
I'd ask Blaine but I think I've spent all my "brah" coupons and am now on the black list.
I do know that I haven't seen a Metalcloak rear track bar that didn't interfere with the crossmember. But they are also a down travel focused company.
I do know that I haven't seen a Metalcloak rear track bar that didn't interfere with the crossmember. But they are also a down travel focused company.
Yet another response I totally expected from you, lol! Also helpful. See, we're starting to narrow it down. It's like pulling teeth!
I believe Jeremy was fighting this with the JKS option, but I also think he was trying to keep as much wheel base as possible, so his sacrifice for doing that was to cut the cross member. The Currie bar must have magical properties!
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