Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Overheating after supercharger install

I just read someone's old thread on a magnumpowers supercharger kit his kit included a high flow fuel pump. Mine did not. Can anyone with this kit confirm a higher flowing fuel pump is needed? This could be part of the issue I think if I'm not getting enough fuel.
 
I just read someone's old thread on a magnumpowers supercharger kit his kit included a high flow fuel pump. Mine did not. Can anyone with this kit confirm a higher flowing fuel pump is needed? This could be part of the issue I think if I'm not getting enough fuel.
I would replace the pump on any TJ running forced induction. The stock pump is probably around 100-150 lph, but that's just a guess. There's not much information about the stock pump flow rate. It's probably good for 250ish whp. Once again that's just a guess. You could put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive around to see if the pressure drops.
 
I would definitely put a pressure gauge on to see what happens.
Keep in mind going uphill under load, it's constantly under boost. A L2A intercooler is good and nice but once that liquid gets hot, if the coolant flow isn't adequate, it just stays hot. I'm not a big fan of L2A myself but that seems to be pretty common with blowers. So going up hill, constantly on boost/under load, assuming a super-safe tune which probably has ignition timing pulled, it's generating tremendous heat. Since the trans cooler flows thru the radiator that's probably not helping much. Have you considered the Derale trans cooler as a supplement?

Big time things:
-canned tunes for forced induction kits are meant to be safe, nothing more. Some are decent, some are crap. It's well known in the coyote 5.0 community that whipple's factory tunes are decent but shelby's blower tunes are junk. Always get a retune.
-A proper kit will include a fuel pump if it's necessary, as well as injectors.
-Make sure the radiator isn't leaking/cracked
-Check for consumption of coolant or oil, check the oil for water, water for oil
-What was the ambient temp when climbing the hill? What was your speed?
-35's on 3.73s will generate extra load which of course generates the constant boost on the hill as well. That generates tremendous heat.
-Consider wrapping your exhaust manifold. I would high-temp paint it, then header wrap it. This will help tremendously in reducing underhood temps, especially since the header sits right under the intake manifold...just absolutely baking it.
-If you add a fuel pump, probably a good idea to add an adjustable pressure regulator.
 
Well did a short scan last night. Did not drive it to the point of overheating. ill do another one today and let it overheat.
 
I would replace the pump on any TJ running forced induction. The stock pump is probably around 100-150 lph, but that's just a guess. There's not much information about the stock pump flow rate. It's probably good for 250ish whp. Once again that's just a guess. You could put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive around to see if the pressure drops.
The kit no longer comes with a high flow fuel pump because the stock one is adequate for the stock settings. Any further adjustment for more boost and you would need a higher flow fuel pump. I added this one to my LJ for future proofing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0J00UQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

followed the write up of this guy on the forums

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...06-tj.37622/&usg=AOvVaw1v1YAELKgQagN_2IWC5kcm
 
So found some time to do some more scanning and I was seeing crazy high IAT's 220* that seems extremely high on a 85* day and a liquid to air intercooler. Also after driving for about 5 minutes I started to get a stumble and then loss of power. Very similar to limp mode feeling. Then the temperature started to rise along with a little bit of a rattling nose from intake/exhaust manifold area. Would a cracked head cuase air intake Temps to skyrocket like that ? The kit came with a cone filter that just 90's over the valve cover sucking in hot air but I doubt that would cause such high AIT. So currently thinking it's going be worse then just a tune issue.
 
So found some time to do some more scanning and I was seeing crazy high IAT's 220* that seems extremely high on a 85* day and a liquid to air intercooler. Also after driving for about 5 minutes I started to get a stumble and then loss of power. Very similar to limp mode feeling. Then the temperature started to rise along with a little bit of a rattling nose from intake/exhaust manifold area. Would a cracked head cuase air intake Temps to skyrocket like that ? The kit came with a cone filter that just 90's over the valve cover sucking in hot air but I doubt that would cause such high AIT. So currently thinking it's going be worse then just a tune issue.

see my comment above about L2A intercoolers. Maybe the heat exchanger for the L2A isn't big enough? That could help. Or could use a fan, or a better fan if it has one?

I'm biased against them because of where I live. In summer here, they don't do much. I've got an ecoboost F150, and the stock intercooler on it was abysmal. once it heat soaked, that was it, you were done. post-intercooler temps stayed hot, ignition timing got cut, and power and efficiency were sacrificed. I upgraded the intercooler on it and it made a WORLD of difference.

If the kit has a tank, try dumping ice into it and going for a drive. Monitor the IATs and how it runs and see how that works. Could be a good test.
 
Wasn't a fan of the cone air filter next to the block so I used a windstar
20210505_182749.jpg
20210506_202125.jpg
20210506_202620.jpg
 
Last edited:
So found some time to do some more scanning and I was seeing crazy high IAT's 220* that seems extremely high on a 85* day and a liquid to air intercooler. Also after driving for about 5 minutes I started to get a stumble and then loss of power. Very similar to limp mode feeling. Then the temperature started to rise along with a little bit of a rattling nose from intake/exhaust manifold area. Would a cracked head cuase air intake Temps to skyrocket like that ? The kit came with a cone filter that just 90's over the valve cover sucking in hot air but I doubt that would cause such high AIT. So currently thinking it's going be worse then just a tune issue.
220 is quite hot. I don't really like to see the IAT over 150 if I can help it. I know that when I was running HP tuners and the IAT would jump up the PCM would pull a ton of timing. That could explain your loss of power. My current air to water setup rarely goes above 160 degrees. I'm also logging the intercooler water temp, and it stays between 90-120 degrees. That's in Texas heat running about 10 psi. My intercooler is a cheap offshore unit, but my heat exchanger is a Setrab and I use the Bosch water pump. I also have a 3 gallon surge tank.
 
220 is quite hot. I don't really like to see the IAT over 150 if I can help it. I know that when I was running HP tuners and the IAT would jump up the PCM would pull a ton of timing. That could explain your loss of power. My current air to water setup rarely goes above 160 degrees. I'm also logging the intercooler water temp, and it stays between 90-120 degrees. That's in Texas heat running about 10 psi. My intercooler is a cheap offshore unit, but my heat exchanger is a Setrab and I use the Bosch water pump. I also have a 3 gallon surge tank.
Definitely way to hot. Yesterday I pulled the hood off and drove around with the outside temp at 60*. The engine never tried to overheat my air intake Temps were still around 140* just normal driving conditions. Under boost they quickly jumped to 180 and it started stumbling and loss of power.

I bit the bullet and bought a tune from Flyin Ryan so hopefully he will get to me soon and hopefully it's the tune that is the problem.
 
Definitely way to hot. Yesterday I pulled the hood off and drove around with the outside temp at 60*. The engine never tried to overheat my air intake Temps were still around 140* just normal driving conditions. Under boost they quickly jumped to 180 and it started stumbling and loss of power.

I bit the bullet and bought a tune from Flyin Ryan so hopefully he will get to me soon and hopefully it's the tune that is the problem.
Hopefully he can get it straightened out for you. Just out of curiosity I checked my factory tune in HP and it pulls 4 degrees of timing at 220 degrees added to another 3 or 4 degrees that it pulls if the coolant temp is over 230 or so. Probably compounded by the fact that your ignition base map timing already is retarded for the supercharger. Timing retarded that far is going to make it run poorly and could cause overheating in itself.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Under boost they quickly jumped to 180 and it started stumbling and loss of power.
Not unusual at all for it to jump under boost, but 180* on a 60* ambient day is crazy, IMO. If the temps continue to climb after that, maybe check the L2A system for bubbles or blockage in the exchanger itself. Also, not sure what kind of pump it uses, but years ago the L2A folks used to complain about failing mustang pumps. Something to keep an eye on!
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator