Slipstreak

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Joined
Dec 13, 2017
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5
Location
Texas
Hey everyone,



Here’s another TJ forum post about overheating at idle bear with me here. I’ve done research on what could be causing an overheating issue at idle and can’t quite narrow down what the issue is.


Some Context:


My Jeep when driving in stop-go traffic will slowly creep up in temperature at traffic lights unless I’m moving and getting air through the radiator fins which causes the temperature to drop back down to normal ranges. I’ve replaced the following chasing this issue:



1.) Mopar 195* Thermostat+Housing

2.) Mopar Water Pump

3.) CSF Radiator 3244

4.) All coolant hoses

5.) New Coolant (G05 Zerex)+flush

6.) DEI heat soak kit+new O-rings

7.) Burped the system at an incline with heat on max until at operating temperature


These were all done within the last 6 months and the issue has persisted. I also replaced the fan clutch back in 2020 and did both test (running to full operating temp then shutting off and seeing if fan continues to spin/checking for grinding/too much resistance). The fan clutch seems healthy and has no signs of leaking. I’ve also checked all other cooling components and have not seen any coolant leaks even with use of dye and a UV light. Coolant levels have also been checked in the radiator and the reservoir look great.



The only thing I could think it would be would be the catalytic converters, in 2021 I had a lean condition and multiple misfires caused by a short in the engine’s wiring harness that I repaired and has not given me an issue since. I did however drive the Jeep in that condition for roughly a week or so because I was a college student with little money at the time. The catalytic converters are original with the two pre-cats and the main catalytic converter in the back. There isn’t a CEL code for the converter (or any code for that matter) so it’s purely speculation aside from the symptoms of running warm like loss of power and decreased fuel economy.

What would be the best way to verify that the catalytic converter is toast without completely unbolting it from the exhaust manifolds and cutting it open? Are there any other things that could be causing this issue that I can look into? TIA!


2002 Jeep Wrangler X
4.0L Inline 6
32RH 3-Speed
 
Last edited:
Hey everyone,



Here’s another TJ forum post about overheating at idle bear with me here. I’ve done research on what could be causing an overheating issue at idle and can’t quite narrow down what the issue is.


Some Context:


My Jeep when driving in stop-go traffic will slowly creep up in temperature at traffic lights unless I’m moving and getting air through the radiator fins which causes the temperature to drop back down to normal ranges. I’ve replaced the following chasing this issue:



1.) Mopar 195* Thermostat+Housing

2.) Mopar Water Pump

3.) CSF Radiator 3244

4.) All coolant hoses

5.) New Coolant (G05 Zerex)+flush

6.) DEI heat soak kit+new O-rings

7.) Burped the system at an incline with heat on max until at operating temperature


These were all done within the last 6 months and the issue has persisted. I also replaced the fan clutch back in 2020 and did both test (running to full operating temp then shutting off and seeing if fan continues to spin/checking for grinding/too much resistance). The fan clutch seems healthy and has no signs of leaking. I’ve also checked all other cooling components and have not seen any coolant leaks even with use of dye and a UV light. Coolant levels have also been checked in the radiator and the reservoir and look great.



The only thing I could think it would be would be the catalytic converters, in 2021 I had a lean condition and multiple misfires caused by a short in the engine’s wiring harness that I repaired and has not given me an issue since. I did however drive the Jeep in that condition for roughly a week or so because I was a college student with little money at the time. The catalytic converters are original with the two pre-cats and the main catalytic converter in the back. There isn’t a CEL code for the converter (or any code for that matter) so it’s purely speculation aside from the symptoms of running warm like loss of power and decreased fuel economy.

What would be the best way to verify that the catalytic converter is toast without completely unbolting it from the exhaust manifolds and cutting it open? Are there any other things that could be causing this issue that I can look into? TIA!


2002 Jeep Wrangler X
4.0L Inline 6
32RH 3-Speed

So when you stop, there's no air flowing. What pulls the air through radiator, is the fan. The fan has a clutch, and that fan clutch when it heats, makes it pull air. So, if yours is out, it would not pull air.

When you over heat just sitting still, and it's fine otherwise, it's a lot of times the fan clutch. Search and you'll see a lot of that discussion.
 
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So when you stop, there's no air flowing. What pulls the air through radiator, is the fan. The fan has a clutch, and that fan clutch when it heats, makes it pull air. So, if yours is out, it would not pull air.

When you over heat just sitting still, and it's fine otherwise, it's a lot of times the fan clutch. Search and you'll see a lot of that discussion.

That’s what I initially thought, but as mentioned above the fan clutch was replaced roughly 3-4 years ago and upon inspection and testing it seems pretty healthy. It doesn’t spin after shutting the engine down and there isn’t too much resistance or grinding when turning the fan by hand. I suppose it’s possible as it’s the oldest thing on the cooling system but I’m not sure that’s it.
 
That’s what I initially thought, but as mentioned above the fan clutch was replaced roughly 3-4 years ago and upon inspection and testing it seems pretty healthy. It doesn’t spin after shutting the engine down and there isn’t too much resistance or grinding when turning the fan by hand. I suppose it’s possible as it’s the oldest thing on the cooling system but I’m not sure that’s it.

I replaced my TPS in September of 2023 and had to do it again 2 days ago.