"Pacing myself" build
- Thread starter bobthetj03
- Start date
OP
Just a small one. Every first week in June Cindy's parents take their RV to feather falls koa for a week. We try to plan a few days to hang out with them. Dad will be 78 this month, so spending time with them is precious. He drives his class a with a Chevy tracker as toad like a boss!
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OP
Jeep has developed a high pitched whistle on deceleration when shifting. Seems to do it when cold, then goes away after a 10 minute warm up. checked the vacuum lines and sprayed carb cleaner around the obvious culprits, but no change.
BendLarry
TJ Addict
That does sound like either a vacuum leak or possibly an intake gasket leak.
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BendLarry
TJ Addict
Are you sure it a whistle and not a sound that a cold belt might make?
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OP
It doesn't sound like a belt squeal. the whistle will lower in pitch with the engine RPM. and just go away as soon as the engine reaches idle rpm. Sounds more like a vacuum leak, but didn't get any results when I sprayed carb cleaner around the TB and intake and purge solenoid.
OP
Well, I discovered the whistle is coming from the drive accessories area. Sounds like a bearing squeal. Goes away after warm up. Replaced the idler/tensioner pulleys and serp belt not too long ago with factory Mopar units, so pretty sure it's not them. That leaves me with alternator, AC compressor, water pump, fan clutch, power steering pump as possible culprits. At 160K on all those units, it could be any one of them.
I have an extra alternator that I thought was bad and replaced but I don't think it was bad. You are welcome to try it and keep it if you like before buying one.
OP
Thanks for the offer LR. I may take you up on that. At least then I could rule out the alternator as the culprit.
OP
Gonna try the screwdriver on the ear test first to see if I can isolate the noise. Will keep you posted.
OP
Not yet. It only makes the noise after sitting over night, and for about 10 minutes into driving to work, so I have to wait for the noise, then try and find a spot to pull over so I can open the hood and try and find it. It got louder this morning, and lasted longer, but I was running late, so I didn't have time to stop. Gonna try again for tomorrow morning.
OP
Another one of my cockamamie ideas is rattling around in my head again. I've been measuring my uptravel and how it relates to my overall ride quality as of late. After doing the ziptie test, I average about 3.25" of uptravel during normal DD and typical road events such as pot holes, and mountain road driving. My current setup allows 4.5" of uptravel, however, 1.75" of that uptravel is taken up by the jounce bumpers. So, if I do the math, I'm hitting the jounce bumpers most of the time just during normal everyday commuting road events. Now I know the jounce bumpers serve a very important purpose, and it gets me thinking of all those threads I see of folks complaining about ride quality. In my situation, there is only a couple things I can do,
1. Raise the suspension height up more.
2. Remove some bumpstop.
Removing bumpstop is a no go unless I run a smaller tire. Not going to happen anytime soon.
I really don't want to raise it much higher than it is now, but I am thinking about new springs since mine are getting long in the tooth. I'm considering going with 3" front/2" rear springs. If I go 3"/3", and have a rake I don't want, then I end up spacing the front to level it, and in turn raise it even more. If I do 3"/2", and the jeep sits even or a little low in the rear, I can space it to level out and not be raising the jeep more than 3". Either way I'd end up needing to use coil spacers to get the ride height I desire. Nature of the beast.
Another thought I had was to trim the jounce bumpers .75" so as to not be always hitting them as much. Not sure if that is such a good idea. @jjvw , I seemed to remember you dabbling with the 3"/2" setup. Thoughts? My end goal, 3" of lift, 5" of uptravel, and not hitting the jounces at 3.25".
Also would like to find a 2" rear spring with about 150 in.lb. spring rate. My OME 942's are 160 in.lbs., and while they work well when I'm loaded down, 75% of the other time I'm running light as a DD. Thoughts?
1. Raise the suspension height up more.
2. Remove some bumpstop.
Removing bumpstop is a no go unless I run a smaller tire. Not going to happen anytime soon.
I really don't want to raise it much higher than it is now, but I am thinking about new springs since mine are getting long in the tooth. I'm considering going with 3" front/2" rear springs. If I go 3"/3", and have a rake I don't want, then I end up spacing the front to level it, and in turn raise it even more. If I do 3"/2", and the jeep sits even or a little low in the rear, I can space it to level out and not be raising the jeep more than 3". Either way I'd end up needing to use coil spacers to get the ride height I desire. Nature of the beast.
Another thought I had was to trim the jounce bumpers .75" so as to not be always hitting them as much. Not sure if that is such a good idea. @jjvw , I seemed to remember you dabbling with the 3"/2" setup. Thoughts? My end goal, 3" of lift, 5" of uptravel, and not hitting the jounces at 3.25".
Also would like to find a 2" rear spring with about 150 in.lb. spring rate. My OME 942's are 160 in.lbs., and while they work well when I'm loaded down, 75% of the other time I'm running light as a DD. Thoughts?
You could add a body lift, and remove almost ALL your bumpstop...
No crack here and I have 1.25" BL
OP
You could add a body lift, and remove almost ALL your bumpstop...
No crack here and I have 1.25" BL
View attachment 46202
That bumper surely does hide the crack well. I've got a 0.5" BL now, and don't plan to go any higher, so I may just be stuck with whats I gots.