Paint job ideas

Oldguy

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Bet you didn't get high solids clear
&
Well if thats all you paid--- its just real hard for me to believe that you got a quality paint job.

Has anyone been into a store and seen how much a good pair of shoes costs for an adult?

Then look and see how much they cost for a baby / toddler--just about the same price for 1/10th of the material
-- thats what your looking at with paint and body people
Why does it matter?
 
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Longhorn84

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I’m pulling off the grille to swap my 5.3 into the TJ so I think I’m going to start there’s since it will already be off. Mainly the front of the body has a ton of rock chips, no real dents except one minor one I’m not worried about. I’m going rattle can route. I’ll report back, probably take me a month to actual get results since this is a weekend project. I think 230 sand, 330 sand, primer, rustoleum base coat x3, 2k clear coat x3, wet sand, buff and call it a day. Thoughts?
 

mrblaine

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I’m pulling off the grille to swap my 5.3 into the TJ so I think I’m going to start there’s since it will already be off. Mainly the front of the body has a ton of rock chips, no real dents except one minor one I’m not worried about. I’m going rattle can route. I’ll report back, probably take me a month to actual get results since this is a weekend project. I think 230 sand, 330 sand, primer, rustoleum base coat x3, 2k clear coat x3, wet sand, buff and call it a day. Thoughts?
Yeah, a few. When you are done, you will have spent a whole bunch of time, a not inconsiderable amount of money and will have about 1/10th the quality a body shop can do in a couple of hours. The difference in materials is astounding. That isn't saying you shouldn't, just the reality of DIY with what we have available to us in rattle can versus what a body shop uses.
 

Goatman

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I fully understand that I will never even come close to the quality that a professional can do. But why would I want that level of paint when I know that branches and stones are going to be part of the Jeep's life. Yes, if I'm trying to win the Bro-Dozer award at the strip mall then I'd need that done, but for my purposes that's wasted money. Pulling hay wagons and an occasional manure spreader and then in the woods or fields is where my Jeep will spend most of it's time. I'm looking for rust protection. Not a mirror finish metallic pinstriped masterpiece.🧐

As for others, the quality and protection a good vinyl wrap provides could be another cost cutting way to achieve what you are looking for. 🤔
 
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Longhorn84

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X2 to what Blaine said.
This all makes sense but the general cost I've heard is $3k for a basic paint job. This is somewhat of a mallcrawler at the moment but I've put a lot of time into the interior and suspension, now I'm doing a 5.3 swap, so I'd like the paint to be respectable. I've seen some pretty impressive results on YT but maybe I'm fooling myself. I enjoy time in the garage with a beer and the radio on, I also enjoy learning new things, which is why I thought the DIY route was approachable. When you say 1/10 the quality, do you think it's durability or shine or how would the rattle can quality show the most?
 
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BlueFl.Wrangler

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You might ought to consider just getting a gallon of paint from home depot- get the good top of the line Behr gloss.
Buy the Purdy rollers & brushes- shouldnt be to bad and would be alot faster:)
 

Chris

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When you say 1/10 the quality, do you think it's durability or shine or how would the rattle can quality show the most?
Both. Rattle can paint can never and will never shine as good as traditional automotive paint. In addition, it's not going to be as durable either.
 

PCO6

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Years ago a friend of mine brush painted his MGB with an enamel. With a lot of wet sanding and polishing it turned out surprising well. Not a professional job but certainly more than just a passible job.
 

PatMc

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Both. Rattle can paint can never and will never shine as good as traditional automotive paint. In addition, it's not going to be as durable either.
Bullshit. I've painted a couple cars with rattle cans...and after spending more time color sanding and polishing than it would have taken a body shop to paint 30 cars, I can say my finish was as good as theirs....and probably more durable, since i had 9 coats on it. LOL.

Then I got a spray gun and bought a gallon of Western Hi-Glo enamel along with reducer and catalyst out the door for $80 at the local auto body supply...painted 2 trucks and a boat with it and still had half a gallon left that needed little to no additional finishing work to look like a real paint job.
 

crackedcornish

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I did a rustoleum enamel over bedliner paint job going on 10 years ago now on my YJ, and it's holding up fine (everywhere except where I removed/replaced the door hinges) which as soon as it gets to it's new home in AZ, is going to simply be touched up
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if I were to do it today, I would just do it in one if the cool colors from Monstaliner and call it a day
 
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jeepins

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Most rattle can paints do not have the UV stability that a standard enamel or urethane paint does. Most rattle cans are literally 70% propellant and 30% paint (if that). Depending on where you live and how good your prep and application is, may work fine, may not. Here in Texas.. no way. No matter how many coats that wouldn't last one summer here to rattlecan a hood or door and have it last. It's all about what you're after and how good your prep work is. This is only based upon comparing a do it yourself to a professional shop materials-wise.
 

mrblaine

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This all makes sense but the general cost I've heard is $3k for a basic paint job. This is somewhat of a mallcrawler at the moment but I've put a lot of time into the interior and suspension, now I'm doing a 5.3 swap, so I'd like the paint to be respectable. I've seen some pretty impressive results on YT but maybe I'm fooling myself. I enjoy time in the garage with a beer and the radio on, I also enjoy learning new things, which is why I thought the DIY route was approachable. When you say 1/10 the quality, do you think it's durability or shine or how would the rattle can quality show the most?
The primers, surfacers, and base/clear coats they use are all superior to what we can get in rattle cans even with the newer Y2K stuff. They can just lay down more material that is catalyzed with a higher solids content that retains all the things we want a paint job to much longer.

Again, not saying don't do it, just understand the differences.

If you were to use all the newer stuff that you set off the catalyst and then mix by shaking, sadly you will be in about the same ballpark cost wise for material that a body shop is.
 

Goatman

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I'm thinking perhaps you haven't priced out a full wrap yet.
Compared to a$10k paint job they are a bargain. But if you read my earlier post you will see I suggested finding a guy that paints tractors who could be in the $500 range using a Rustolium or similar paint.

Some people think they can grab a Harbor Freight $30 paintgun and do a great spray job (I did 30+ years ago) but the truth is it is an artform that I will never be good at.
There is really no way to get a $10,000 paint job for $100. But it really depends on what you want the paint to do. If you want to keep rust out while going through trails or you want awards at the car show.
 

mrblaine

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Compared to a$10k paint job they are a bargain. But if you read my earlier post you will see I suggested finding a guy that paints tractors who could be in the $500 range using a Rustolium or similar paint.
Well yeah, that's a bargain. Were we talking about 10 grand paint jobs though? The numbers I recall were in the 2500 to 3500 range.