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Pics of Aux Fuse / Relay Panel Location

Andymc79

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
13
Location
Akron Ohio
I made the mount out of 2x2x1/8" aluminum angle. I put a couple nutserts next to the dimples in the firewall to attach it. Of course my excitement to get it installed got the better of me and I didn't get any pics of the mount 😁🤦‍♂️

14C699DA-2E99-43DC-9916-41EB0D2E277E.jpeg


The red arrows are approximately where it's bolted to the firewall. The green arrow is the inline fuse, mounted under one side of the angle. I have 4ga running from the battery to the fuse then to the positive buss of the relay block.

D68C171B-F673-4A88-AEE4-0D09B8153B3F.jpeg


I used the same method with separate ground busses for the load returns as described in the link above. One is mounted under the leg of the angle behind the relay block, the other is under the piece of aluminum on the front.
 

TJ Jim

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
495
Location
Tennessee
went down to the pick your part and pulled some terminals out of a under hood fuse box. I added relays and fuses to the empty holes in the factory box. No additional real estate required under the hood.
Hey how about some pics of the new setup. That sounds like a real good project to make the extra lights look stock and clean
 

SkylinesSuck

TJ Expert
Joined
Mar 28, 2020
Messages
3,039
Location
Northern VA
It's not the same but you can use one. What you really need are the wires coming out of the bottom and the plugs at the end. As long as it uses the same style fuses and relays it should be fine.
 
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SkylinesSuck

TJ Expert
Joined
Mar 28, 2020
Messages
3,039
Location
Northern VA
It's not the same but you can use one. What you really need are the wires coming out of the bottom and the plugs at the end. As long as it uses the same style fuses and relays it should be fine.
Oh! And don't forget the bus plugs if you have the older style and want to add maxi fuses. I forgot about this part and threw away the donor pdc without grabbing them. Needed to find another afterwards 🙄
 

NskLJ

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 19, 2021
Messages
455
Location
Long Beach
Here is a picture of my PDC I’ve added rear lamps and tow brake controller to the empty circuits. If accessories had a pre wires harness (such as ARB compressor) it usually use that harness. I pulled spare terminals out of a Ford van or truck. If the box looks the same and uses the same fuses the terminals will work.

07BF28A4-7009-42FB-9400-6FCBAAFF7E5C.jpeg
 

NashvilleTJ

I miss the snow...
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
3,390
Location
Nashville
Jeep - Stereo Amp 2 - 1-18-2022 (25).JPG


I've added over a dozen circuits and relays to my PDC - there is a bunch of room (at least in my rig). Everything from a 10A circuit for the winch switch, to 40- and 50-amp circuits for my amplifier and radiator fan, respectively.

It's definitely more work, and a bit of a pain to get in there, but I like the factory look. I even go so far as to try and match the original font for my labels.

For me, fuses and relays are easy to diagnose and replace doing it this way.
 

BlueRidge304

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
Messages
179
Location
WV
Not as cool as the PDC modifications and other really nice custom work already posted, but here is where i located mine.

1.jpg


2.jpg
 
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BlueRidge304

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
Messages
179
Location
WV
That looks like a nice and simple panel. What's the brand?
"OFFROADTOWN" purchased from Amazon. I had never heard of this brand before - found it while searching for SPOD alternatives. Been installed for a little over a year without any problems.
 

pc1p

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Nov 6, 2020
Messages
1,348
Location
Hills of NEPA
I used the generic box from Amazon and it worked very well for what I needed. It offered 6 fused relay outputs:
62069750252__A9DA6787-6F17-416A-9DB9-0096B50CD92C.JPG


Rather than have multiple wires/fuses feeding the box, I did a 10AWG main feed, which split into the 14AWG leads. The 10AWG main feed was tied to a 50A resettable breaker by the battery and the output of each fuse was into the relay (#30 pin).
RenderedImage.jpg


I originally made a simple bracket to mount the relay box above the EVAP canister, but when I went with the GenRight Hi-Fenders, I made a new bracket (luckily had plenty of space and length of wire).
IMG_9435.jpg


IMG_9458.jpg


For the switches, I used the factory-style switches on the inside that I got off eBay. I used a relay for high beams, low beams, fogs, off-road lights, rock lights, and set up an extra for a future low amp (~8A) "pusher" style fan to use on the front of the A/C condenser during slow speed summer crawling.
IMG_9307.jpg
 
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SSTJ

SSTJ

Inexperienced Overthinker
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
1,912
Location
South Carolina
I used the generic box from Amazon and it worked very well for what I needed. It offered 6 fused relay outputs:
View attachment 329469

Rather than have multiple wires/fuses feeding the box, I did a 10AWG main feed, which split into the 14AWG leads. The 10AWG main feed was tied to a 50A resettable breaker by the battery and the output of each fuse was into the relay (#30 pin).
View attachment 329473

I originally made a simple bracket to mount the relay box above the EVAP canister, but when I went with the GenRight Hi-Fenders, I made a new bracket (luckily had plenty of space and length of wire).
View attachment 329470

View attachment 329472

For the switches, I used the factory-style switches on the inside that I got off eBay. I used a relay for high beams, low beams, fogs, off-road lights, rock lights, and set up an extra for a future low amp (~8A) "pusher" style fan to use on the front of the A/C condenser during slow speed summer crawling.
View attachment 329474

Nice, thanks for sharing.
 
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