Nicholas
TJ Enthusiast
You know same here said 44 but I did like 30-35
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Please help with death wobble
- Thread starter Glenn Hodges
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You know same here said 44 but I did like 30-35
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Nicholas
TJ Enthusiast
I added a 2 spacer lift and instant DW on the way to get an alignment, got it still after an alignment turned out it was beat up track bar and control arm bushings replaced those and after another alignment I was okay until it was still there but it was harder to get because of incorrect balancing of tires so I took em somewhere else and they told me they were poorly balanced so after that it was basically taken care of I haven't got it since wooh that's a lot but it's my story figured it could possibly help
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TJ Tigers
Member
I know you said 3.25 inch lift. But did you by any chance change out the Pitman Arm when doing the lift. I have a 4 inch lift and it had a drop Pitman from the previous owner. Took it off and replaced with factory part and no more DW. And like everybody else take it to a good tire shop and make sure the tires are perfect.
Stock is 29 PSI for 30" tires, I'd likely lower to 28 PSI for 31's of the same width. Or whatever the Rubicon's stock tire pressure is.
I purchased a new Nissan NV high roof van with Quigley 4x4. On my way down the Going to the Sun road at Logan's Pass in the Glacier National Park I got DW when I used my brakes. First time scared the shit out of me. I had to use my transmission to slow then use the brakes which caused the steering wheel to shake so hard I loosened my grip and let it wobble until I had to steer then let off the brake, steer, and hit the brakes again. At the nearest gas station, I added 4 pounds of air into the front tires and never experienced it again.
I didn't know that about Nissan rotors. Quigley uses a non Nissan front end when they convert them to 4x4.
Even my MTBike sidewalls are way off. They show a maximum tire pressure of 44, if I recall, but proper inflation relates to rider weight and whether you’re running tubes or tubeless. I regularly run 22 rear and 20 front. The goal is maximum traction, identical in principle to ‘airing down’ when heading off-road in our Jeeps!
John9999
TJ Enthusiast
Tire sidewalls only give maximum pressure the tire will hold. It has nothing to do with the pressure you should run (other than don’t exceed it).
Daveh370
Member
The agency I work for had a mid-2000's Ford E-250 van with a Quigley set up. Had a brake job done at the Ford dealer, and what a scary experience that was. The vehicle would pull violently to the right when the brakes were applied. Brought it back and left it for a few days. The tech said they ended up using GM brake parts to fix the issue.
Precisely. There are always other issues, such as weight, that affect what you should run as an optimum performance pressure vs what you could run. Most people just put in the maximum pressure on the sidewall. LOL
Hello all,
I wanted to give everyone an update. I hope recapping my progress and outlining my next steps will help with the mental healing process. I'm loosing faith that I will ever feel comfortable putting my son behind the wheel of his pride and joy 2000 TJ. Anyway here are the steps I've taken:
1. Installed 3.25" lift (later removed spacers, so it's likely a 2.5" now)
2. Installed belly pan drop, then removed, because engine (4.0L manual) made horrible noise (not fan hitting shroud)
3. Test drive death wobble
4. Installed adjustable track bar
5. Replace LH axle u-joint because it was ancient and nearly rusted apart, RH looks to have been replaced already
6. Took jeep to shop for suspension check then alignment
Results of check
1. Moderate front lower ball joint wear (border line for inspection)
2. Play in steering box
3. RH rear trailing arm bolt loose
4. Repair all then align
5. I have 2 appointments set up to double check everything once complete
I suppose I'm where many have been before, spending $1500 to install a $500 lift with no guarantee of fixing the problem. Ugh!
Not enjoying trial and error by going out and attempting to loose control of a jeep going 50mph. Maybe I just need to grow a set.
I wanted to give everyone an update. I hope recapping my progress and outlining my next steps will help with the mental healing process. I'm loosing faith that I will ever feel comfortable putting my son behind the wheel of his pride and joy 2000 TJ. Anyway here are the steps I've taken:
1. Installed 3.25" lift (later removed spacers, so it's likely a 2.5" now)
2. Installed belly pan drop, then removed, because engine (4.0L manual) made horrible noise (not fan hitting shroud)
3. Test drive death wobble
4. Installed adjustable track bar
5. Replace LH axle u-joint because it was ancient and nearly rusted apart, RH looks to have been replaced already
6. Took jeep to shop for suspension check then alignment
Results of check
1. Moderate front lower ball joint wear (border line for inspection)
2. Play in steering box
3. RH rear trailing arm bolt loose
4. Repair all then align
5. I have 2 appointments set up to double check everything once complete
I suppose I'm where many have been before, spending $1500 to install a $500 lift with no guarantee of fixing the problem. Ugh!
Not enjoying trial and error by going out and attempting to loose control of a jeep going 50mph. Maybe I just need to grow a set.
Imapepper
TJ Enthusiast
What size tires, what type of wheels, and what tire pressure are you running? If I read correctly, I saw another thread where you are using 17" JK wheels with wheel adapters. It could definitely be as simple as a balancing issue, especially with this type of configuration. I would try going back to the stock wheels/tires/pressure (30's @ 29 PSI) and see if it goes away.
I am running with the 17" JK wheels, this is how I bought the Jeep. I would need to purchase stock wheels, which isn't out of the question.
What about the configuration is suspect? Size? Adapters? 17"?
What about the configuration is suspect? Size? Adapters? 17"?
It's just a more complex configuration and will likely be harder to balance due to the adapters. Personally, I wouldn't run this on my Jeep, but I'm sure it works fine as long as everything is balanced and you are running a reasonable tire pressure for your setup.
Lot's of people run 17" wheels on TJ's, including JK wheels. That shouldn't be the problem. Tire balance, tire balance. I'd have them RoadForce Balanced. And, as I may have mentioned before, while I was able to get rid of DW, I was never able to get rid of a shimmy between 45-50 until I got new tires, at which point they shimmy magically went away. Nothing else was changed. AND I went from a smaller worn 31x10.5 to a much larger and heavier new 33x12.5. Tires, tires, tires....
Agreed, tire balance and then pressure are the most likely culprits, but I did want to flush out the fact that wheel adapters are being used here. I've seen quite a few times where tire balance is done properly, but then the adapter installation or the mounting process is not done correctly (improper torque, sequence etc.). In the sports car world (where I have most of my experience) a lot of folks use hub centric spacers, hub adapters etc. These setups are more sensitive to improper torque down and can also exacerbate tire imbalance issues in some cases.
OP, if you don't have other wheels to try, then there goes that idea...I wouldn't rule anything out prematurely if your vibrations are still deemed to be tire/wheel balance related.
OP, if you don't have other wheels to try, then there goes that idea...I wouldn't rule anything out prematurely if your vibrations are still deemed to be tire/wheel balance related.
Ok guys, I really appreciate the help and I mean that sincerely. Here's my question at this point.
I already plan to replace the ball joints, just sounds like the right thing to do.
Should I make every effort to eliminate the spacers?? They are only there to convert 5x4.5 to 5x5.
Are they just too difficult to balance correctly? This jeep sees very little off-road.
If I do this I will want to go back to stock 15", maybe with a little width. Thoughts Please!
I already plan to replace the ball joints, just sounds like the right thing to do.
Should I make every effort to eliminate the spacers?? They are only there to convert 5x4.5 to 5x5.
Are they just too difficult to balance correctly? This jeep sees very little off-road.
If I do this I will want to go back to stock 15", maybe with a little width. Thoughts Please!
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