Poke Holes In My Plan

PNW Lj

PNW Lj

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Messages
118
Location
Snohomish, Wa
So I have a plan for my LJ and I want to put it out there for all to poke holes in before I start pulling trigger on parts.


Jeeps Purpose: I have no plans on ever selling this jeep, as far as I’m concerned, I may be buried in it. I will do whatever is needed whenever its needed, up to and including repowering, rebuilding, reframing, ect. So budget is not a problem, however I want availability of parts 20+ years from now, and I want to keep needless expenditure low.

The goal is 33in tires and about 3.25- 3.75 in of over all lift, the jeep will be an 80/20 on-road/off-road, and needs to remain drivable for extensive freeway journeys (500+ miles). It will see old fire roads and mild to moderate trail use and won’t be hitting the hard stuff (at least not on purpose, I’ve made wrong turns before and probably will again).

The main outcomes are for reliability, repairability (long term), and make the sacrifices to drivability as small as possible.



The Plan: (may not be in order)

-Savvy 1.25 BL

-Savvy cable Shifter 241OR

-MORE pillow block lift

-MORE Bomb proof 1in motor mounts Or Maybe just a motor mount lift, thus retaining stock motor mounts which should be easier to find in the future.

-Rough country #1044 front track bar W/ Moog K7252 bushings.

-JKS rear track bar Relocation bracket Or Rough country #1075 Rear track bar W/ Moog K7252 bushings

-Rancho RS5000x shocks (please chime in on what part number yall think will work best here)

-JKS 3in dual rate springs Or OME2996 Rear and either OME 2933 or 2934 front

I do need recommendation on the springs, its an Lj hard top with warn rock crawler front bumper and a Warn 9.5ti. out back is a Genright 31.5 safari tank. And in the middle (I am not a typical Tj owner at 6’8” 380lbs) is about 800lbs between me, my wife and the dogs before cargo.

-Mix between daystar, spacers, and hockey pucks for bump stops

-Brake lines don’t know if I need them yet

-Stock for now other than thick tie rod, (maybe Currie correct lync, Zj conversion, possibly even a Wj brake conversion with crossover in the future.)

-UCF deep cover extra clearance skid ¼” aluminum

-Rough Country quick disconnects front ( I own um, may as well rock um till they drop. Thinking SwayLOC in the future)

-Extended Rear Sway bar links



Go to town, poke holes in my plan, stop me from making mistakes. Good, bad and ugly I want your guy’s opinions.
jeep stock and current.jpg

Mostly stock on bottom( has gas tank, front bumper and winch)
Top is current (265/75, RC2.5 lift(wife tried to buy me a nice present, she didn't know))
 
A 2" spring lift coupled wiith a 1.25" BL and a 1" MML will run 33s nicely. Install a rear track bar relocation bracket, a new adjustable front track bar, JKS front sway bar disconnects and send it. It will maintain stock driving feel and run 33s
 
CodaMan said:
A 2" spring lift coupled wiith a 1.25" BL and a 1" MML will run 33s nicely. Install a rear track bar relocation bracket, a new adjustable front track bar, JKS front sway bar disconnects and send it. It will maintain stock driving feel and run 33s
Click to expand...
Any recommendation on which springs (being as it will be heavier than most)?
 
I will give Dirk on DPG Off-road a call and discuss this kit w him.
https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-man-emu-super-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/He will guide you with the coils as he is sharp on the OME stuff. I will pick Curry JJ control arms, JKS are ok but probably they comes with something new and then you may not find a replacement or not widely available. The kit comes with instructions and he is super helpful, reason I went with this kit.
I have this kit on my LJ for 4 years, abuse it and still going, just going out in favor of mid arms and 37” KM3’s
The UFC skid is bomb proof, i do pair mine with the GR tranny crossmember and will be on the LJ until die.
 
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Jorge Bolivar said:
I will give Dirk on DPG Off-road a call and discuss this kit w him.
https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-man-emu-super-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/He will guide you with the coils as he is sharp on the OME stuff. I will pick Curry JJ control arms, JKS are ok but probably they comes with something new and then you may not find a replacement or not widely available. The kit comes with instructions and he is super helpful, reason I went with this kit.
I have this kit on my LJ for 4 years, abuse it and still going, just going out in favor of mid arms and 37” KM3’s
The UFC skid is bomb proof, i do pair mine with the GR tranny crossmember and will be on the LJ until die.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jorge, I've looked at DPG several times and will probably be ordering my springs from them if I go the OME Route. I wasn't planning on doing control arm, as I will be staying under 3in on the suspension lift, but if i do you can bet they will be Currie or Savvy.

Do you know what spring # you ended up using on yours?
 
I think you’ve got a solid plan, and it’s what I’ve been going with myself for the most part, we have very similar use cases and tire size goals.

I’m still trying to decide on control arms too, and have been looking into something like the rubicon express upper and lower arms because they retain a stock style rubber bushing as opposed to a straight metal on metal heim joint.

Personally I like the way my TJ drives right now and I don’t want to sacrifice that for a little bit extra off-road. Others I’m sure feel very differently!

Also I went with the steel UCF extra clearance skid instead of the aluminum one. Since it’s really the only underbelly protection I’m getting, I don’t mind having a bit more weight, I’d also be a little worried about aluminum if I’m repeatedly bolting or unbolting it or hitting it against a rock every now and then. There’s something to be said for building an ultra lightweight rig, but once again if you are roading it for the majority of time does the weight over durability matter?
 
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brett313 said:
I think you’ve got a solid plan, and it’s what I’ve been going with myself for the most part, we have very similar use cases and tire size goals.

I’m still trying to decide on control arms too, and have been looking into something like the rubicon express upper and lower arms because they retain a stock style rubber bushing as opposed to a straight metal on metal heim joint.

Personally I like the way my TJ drives right now and I don’t want to sacrifice that for a little bit extra off-road. Others I’m sure feel very differently!
Click to expand...
The control arm thing made me anxious for awhile, but That is one of the ONLY parts I'm pretty sure about. I too wanted stronger adjustable control arms, BUT (like you) with OEM style bushings (for long term serviceability, and road manners) , I have since changed my mind.

My bias toward oem style bushings was driven from my experience with copy cat flex joints made by Rubicon Express, Rustys, Teraflex, and Rough Country; and actual Heim joints (<should not be street legal in my opinion), all of which I've had on my own jeeps or worked on, on customers cars. it wasn't until I found a thread that really made sense that I changed my mind (wish I could find and post here but oh well). I think it was Mr.blaine and Jerry talking about this, but when you think of the stock control arm being made of stamped steel, you think about it being flimsy, however, it does just seem to work in application, some times for a few hundred thousand miles! What you don't think about is that because it is kind flimsy is that it can actually flex nicely along its long axis. when you go to a ridged arm with stock style joints, that flex is gone, and now the puny mounts have to take that flex (surprise they wont).

I still wasn't happy, as I didn't want to take on some proprietary BS that was going to need rebuilding every oil change to keep the thing streetable. This is where Currie comes in, after much research, I found no one (NO ONE!) bitching about Currie, but many feeling as I did with the others. What I did find was a bunch of people talking about the people (like me) who hold a grudge against those joints and have never had one (like me), they say there different and I believe them.

My plan for now is to stay with stock, as my caster and pinion angle should be fine under 3in of SL, plus if taco a factory control arm they are widely available (and probably will be in the future) for $25. If I should need adjustable, there's no question I will be doing the Curries or the Savvy's.
 
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PNW Lj said:
So I have a plan for my LJ and I want to put it out there for all to poke holes in before I start pulling trigger on parts.


Jeeps Purpose: I have no plans on ever selling this jeep, as far as I’m concerned, I may be buried in it. I will do whatever is needed whenever its needed, up to and including repowering, rebuilding, reframing, ect. So budget is not a problem, however I want availability of parts 20+ years from now, and I want to keep needless expenditure low.

The goal is 33in tires and about 3.25- 3.75 in of over all lift, the jeep will be an 80/20 on-road/off-road, and needs to remain drivable for extensive freeway journeys (500+ miles). It will see old fire roads and mild to moderate trail use and won’t be hitting the hard stuff (at least not on purpose, I’ve made wrong turns before and probably will again).

The main outcomes are for reliability, repairability (long term), and make the sacrifices to drivability as small as possible.



The Plan: (may not be in order)

-Savvy 1.25 BL

-Savvy cable Shifter 241OR

-MORE pillow block lift

-MORE Bomb proof 1in motor mounts Or Maybe just a motor mount lift, thus retaining stock motor mounts which should be easier to find in the future.

-Rough country #1044 front track bar W/ Moog K7252 bushings.

-JKS rear track bar Relocation bracket Or Rough country #1075 Rear track bar W/ Moog K7252 bushings

-Rancho RS5000x shocks (please chime in on what part number yall think will work best here)

-JKS 3in dual rate springs Or OME2996 Rear and either OME 2933 or 2934 front

I do need recommendation on the springs, its an Lj hard top with warn rock crawler front bumper and a Warn 9.5ti. out back is a Genright 31.5 safari tank. And in the middle (I am not a typical Tj owner at 6’8” 380lbs) is about 800lbs between me, my wife and the dogs before cargo.

-Mix between daystar, spacers, and hockey pucks for bump stops

-Brake lines don’t know if I need them yet

-Stock for now other than thick tie rod, (maybe Currie correct lync, Zj conversion, possibly even a Wj brake conversion with crossover in the future.)

-UCF deep cover extra clearance skid ¼” aluminum

-Rough Country quick disconnects front ( I own um, may as well rock um till they drop. Thinking SwayLOC in the future)

-Extended Rear Sway bar links



Go to town, poke holes in my plan, stop me from making mistakes. Good, bad and ugly I want your guy’s opinions.
View attachment 245462
Mostly stock on bottom( has gas tank, front bumper and winch)
Top is current (265/75, RC2.5 lift(wife tried to buy me a nice present, she didn't know))
Click to expand...
I think you will have to have an SYE and DC and CA’s to work with the UCF extra Cleatance skid.
 
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brett313 said:
I’m still trying to decide on control arms too, and have been looking into something like the rubicon express upper and lower arms because they retain a stock style rubber bushing as opposed to a straight metal on metal heim joint.
Click to expand...
By the way, since I have been looking in to this hard lately, I feel as if I should give you this piece of info. those RE control arms use Rubber bushings "like the factory did", not factory bushings. Their bushing is theirs and proprietary, stock bushings wont fit. I have found two company's making adjustable arms with stock bushings. nether of which I would say I'm happy with or trust
Rustys
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-...e-control-arm-package-forged-rubber-ends.html
and Core
https://www.core4x4.com/product/adjustable-control-arms-complete-set-t1-wrangler-tj-1997-2006/
JKS used to make some as well the J-axis control arms, But i think they have been discontinued

Currie and Savvy Seem to be the only prudent decisions IMHO
 
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JMT said:
I think you will have to have an SYE and DC and CA’s to work with the UCF extra Cleatance skid.
Click to expand...
I will look into that further, I know I don't need the SYE (its a 241or) but I'm not a 100% on not needing to switch out for DC, or if the raise in the t-case will be severe enough to need CA. Thanks for poking holes
 
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TheBoogieman said:
Rough country #1044 front track bar. (n)
p.s. I'd go with CodaMan's advice for your needs.
Click to expand...
I'm going with the rough country (trust me it hurts me just saying it) here as the design they have for this appears to be great! doesn't rely on the (IMHO) horrible design that requires stock mount being drilled out and using a flex joint or heim (I have personally broken several of this type in previous jeeps, and don't trust it.)

from what I have read they have great clearance, orient the track bar on the same axis (like it should be), are solid and forged, use a stock style bushing, and even have an adjustment sleeve instead of being threaded, what more could you want? I mean trust me, I hate that its from rough country too (I really do), but if it said JKS or Currie on the box instead, everyone would be all over it. the only thing I have seen is that the bushings it come with suck, and to replace them with the K7252 track bar bushings from a 2500 dodge.

I'm absolutely open to suggestions here though, give me a suggestion of something better for my application.

https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1044.html
 
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PNW Lj said:
By the way, since I have been looking in to this hard lately, I feel as if I should give you this piece of info. those RE control arms use Rubber bushings "like the factory did", not factory bushings. Their bushing is theirs and proprietary, stock bushings wont fit. I have found two company's making adjustable arms with stock bushings. nether of which I would say I'm happy with or trust
Rustys
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-...e-control-arm-package-forged-rubber-ends.html
and Core
https://www.core4x4.com/product/adjustable-control-arms-complete-set-t1-wrangler-tj-1997-2006/
JKS used to make some as well the J-axis control arms, But i think they have been discontinued

Currie and Savvy Seem to be the only prudent decisions IMHO
Click to expand...

I appreciate the reply, looks like I’ve got some more reading to do!
 
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brett313 said:
I appreciate the reply, looks like I’ve got some more reading to do!
Click to expand...
np man, I already spent the hours reading, at least you can use that info too.
This is jeep #28 for me, I'm not new, just been out of it for about 7 years (the last jeep really made mad for awhile, and took the fun outta jeeping for me for a bit) I've had this thing somewhat built in my head for years, and I knew what I wanted, but just because that how I want it to be, doesn't mean that's how it is.
I've done this enough to know a wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others, and any man that's owned 28 jeeps, knows how to make mistakes.
 
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The wife and I were talking about this the other day, if I buy a new gladiator, and get her a jk (gag!), I will have owned at least one jeep from every decade from my 1942 GPW to now. My Lj Rubicon isn't even the rarest jeep I've owned, that title belongs to my 1985 north American market factory 2.1L turbo diesel Cherokee
 
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CodaMan said:
A 2" spring lift coupled wiith a 1.25" BL and a 1" MML will run 33s nicely. Install a rear track bar relocation bracket, a new adjustable front track bar, JKS front sway bar disconnects and send it. It will maintain stock driving feel and run 33s
Click to expand...
I’m going to modify this a bit for the LJ bias.
2” springs, 55128, 55240 shocks, 1 or 1.25” BL, Adjustable rear trackbar, swaylinks, 1” bump stop extensions (for 33’s). Call it great.
When you tuck, you may or may not have vibes at the 4” offset. If so then add arms and a rear trackbar bracket if needed.
 
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PNW Lj said:
These are the 0-2" right? I've heard they run long, and should work well with 2.5" (maintaining up travel), can you confirm this?
Click to expand...
They should be a bit biased toward up travel with a 2.5” spring. It depends on the rate and block height of the springs.


This is a 2” Procomp 170# spring. The shock had 1/4” of chrome showing

A6891B47-56C4-42DF-A7F6-B16FBE9ECEB0.jpeg
 
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