Poke Holes In My Plan

I may just end up keeping the spring out of this pos RC2.5 kit for awhile while I make decisions. The "2.5in lift" springs netted me 1.5 in of lift over stock, but at least it's level. If I threw on a .75" spacer, and the body lift, I should net 3.5" on the head
 
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I may just end up keeping the spring out of this pos RC2.5 kit for awhile while I make decisions. The "2.5in lift" springs netted me 1.5 in of lift over stock, but at least it's level. If I threw on a .75" spacer, and the body lift, I should net 3.5" on the head
I’d skip the spacers in favor of a tuck
 
I’d skip the spacers in favor of a tuck
I don't think I would get 33s under it with out the spacers, or different springs. My fronts are dead on 13.5in isolator to perch and rears are dead on 9.5in. The tuck is happening no matter what, only difference is if I'm buying control arms or not.
 
I don't think I would get 33s under it with out the spacers, or different springs. My fronts are dead on 13.5in isolator to perch and rears are dead on 9.5in. The tuck is happening no matter what, only difference is if I'm buying control arms or not.
you need 2” clearance above the tire for 33 x 10.50’s. This can be a 1” BL and a 1” bump drop or a 2” bump drop. Added spring won’t really help unless you can get them to full block. That’ll cause bump spacers too.
Really need to pull the springs, flex and measure
 
I think LJs look right at 4" and at least 33s.
I liked your original plan with addition of 4"springs, control arms and driveshaft.
 
you need 2” clearance above the tire for 33 x 10.50’s. This can be a 1” BL and a 1” bump drop or a 2” bump drop. Added spring won’t really help unless you can get them to full block. That’ll cause bump spacers too.
Really need to pull the springs, flex and measure
Alright don't know if it's cus I'm tired, but I think we ended up talking about two different things.

K so the springs that are in the jeep currently are only supplying 1.5" of lift. So if I were to just add 1.25" body lift, my over all lift would be 2.75", not enough for comfortable 33 fitment

If I added a .75 coil spacer, my over all would hit 3.5". Touch low, but comfortable 33 fitment.

Obviously, not doing any bump work with springs in the car. Really not doing any bump work without shocks, track bars, and BL here to be able to work with.

Like I said, I'm tired, am I the confused one here?
 
I think LJs look right at 4" and at least 33s.
I liked your original plan with addition of 4"springs, control arms and driveshaft.
I actually agree with you that they don't look right with anything less than a 33 (really if we're talking about looks 4.5in and 35s looks the best to me), however, the compromises compared to the benefits really start to fall off after 3in of suspension IMHO (unless of course were talking mid arm)
 
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You cant count the lift generated by the spring in the equation.
The distance between the hard stop (bump) and the fender is what you need for clearance.
the hardstop is determined by bump drop which is determined by spring block height or other interferance points.
 
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I will look into that further, I know I don't need the SYE (its a 241or) but I'm not a 100% on not needing to switch out for DC, or if the raise in the t-case will be severe enough to need CA. Thanks for poking holes
Oh, I didn’t see in your original post that you had a Rubicon. No SYE needed, but you will still need to point your pinions at the yokes on the 241. You need adjustable CA’s to do that. RC TB with different bushings? I read what you said, but meh.
 
You cant count the lift generated by the spring in the equation.
The distance between the hard stop (bump) and the fender is what you need for clearance.
the hardstop is determined by bump drop which is determined by spring block height or other interferance points.
Were on the same page now, was already planning on starting with the BL, and will pull some measurements from there.
 
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Oh, I didn’t see in your original post that you had a Rubicon. No SYE needed, but you will still need to point your pinions at the yokes on the 241. You need adjustable CA’s to do that. RC TB with different bushings? I read what you said, but meh.
I do not contest that CA's may be needed once the TT is in, with the deltas coming in to the 4 to 5 inch range. As for the track bar, again I'm open to suggestions, show me a better option, that doesn't use a fundimentally flawed design for lift heights this low?
 
I actually agree with you that they don't look right with anything less than a 33 (really if we're talking about looks 4.5in and 35s looks the best to me), however, the compromises compared to the benefits really start to fall off after 3in of suspension IMHO (unless of course were talking mid arm)
I like 3" procomp or other coils and the BL will do it. I also run the RC trackbar with plans to change the bushings. Nice ride by the way and heck of a deal most Atlanta LJs I have seen are double that price👍
 
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Nice ride by the way and heck of a deal most Atlanta LJs I have seen are double that price👍
Hate to say this but.. I think you may be responding to the wrong thread, I've owned this thing since 2015 and I never mentioned what I paid for it
 
I do not contest that CA's may be needed once the TT is in, with the deltas coming in to the 4 to 5 inch range. As for the track bar, again I'm open to suggestions, show me a better option, that doesn't use a fundimentally flawed design for lift heights this low?
JKS for front TB. Currie for rear, depending on how much you have to tilt the rear pinion. If your at 15*+ with an angled rear TB relocation bracket, your rear non-Currie TB will be crashing into the GTS or the crossmember.

Or you can trim the crossmember like I did.
 
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Yeah that how I ended up owning 28 jeeps too, never taking anyone else's advice and experiences either.
Sounds like you took their advice, instead of finding out what works and sticking with it. I've only owned so many Jeeps because I'm poor and sold them for a profit, after lifting them. Luckily this one is paid for.