PRNDL's Green One

Vtx531 said:
I wanted to replace my rusty straps when I put in the new gastank skid but I was too impatient to wait for new ones - so kuddos to you.

What's your plan for the towhook bolt or did you already take care of it?
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I'm going to attempt to use a bolt extractor kit. I fully expect it to be unsuccessful. I've been soaking it in PB blaster (again) for the last few days. If that fails, I'll drill it out and re-tap the hole... Not sure i have many other options.

The free spinning nut inside the frame rail on the other bolt is another problem. I'm going to try to fit a pry bar in the access hole to hold it down. Playing it by ear at this point.
 
PRNDL said:
I'm going to attempt to use a bolt extractor kit. I fully expect it to be unsuccessful. I've been soaking it in PB blaster (again) for the last few days. If that fails, I'll drill it out and re-tap the hole... Not sure i have many other options.

The free spinning nut inside the frame rail on the other bolt is another problem. I'm going to try to fit a pry bar in the access hole to hold it down. Playing it by ear at this point.
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If you have access to a welder, you can weld a bolt head to what you have left. Then take a torch to the bolt and heat it as red hot as you can get it. If you can do this, it will magically come out.
 
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PRNDL said:
One more reason to get a welder and learn. I'm assuming a mapp capable torch is the way to go? Would something like this work?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Trigger-Start-Torch-Kit-TS4000KC/203368730
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I have the TS-8000 and it is really good. I use propane. They dont really make mapp gas anymore. The current stuff is called map/pro (marketing gimmick) and cost way more than propane but not really much hotter. I have an adapter hose for my ts-8000 torch to hook it up to a 20lb tank if I really need to use a lot of heat. It will get stuff red hot - just takes a while. Like 5-10 mins... but no need to buy and store oxygen or acetylene.
 
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Took care of the broken shock bolts/welded nuts. The right angle dremel attachment made it easy with the mini cut off wheels. I was able to go up through the shock opening from below, cut through most of it and finish it off with a hammer and punch. A few more passes with the dremel to clean up the surface and its ready for paint.
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I noticed I lost a center cap sometime in the last few weeks. I think they are ~$20 online unless someone has a few laying around. I have a new set of McGard lugs I'm going to put on once the rear is buttoned up.
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Placing orders this week for the lift. Here's the prospective parts list with the goal of running 285/75r16s (~32.8"). I will add a body lift if (when) needed to clear the tires.

JKS JSPEC 3" Springs JSPEC3300 - Northridge4x4
Rancho RS5000x 2.5" 55239/55241 - Amazon (any reason to get the kit vs individuals?)
RockJock Front Track Bar CE-9120TJS - Rokmen (its $365 here vs $423 most other retailers, why?)
JKS Rear Track Bar Bracket OGS160 - Amazon
Savvy Control Arms CE-9100SE - Savvy

To be decided:
Bumpstops:
Rock Krawler bump stop kit - RK05611 or skip the kit and just get hockey pucks?

Brake Lines:
YJ option, unless there's a reason to go another way.
Front Left: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CHHK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Front Right: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2CBTY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Rear Center: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY2C63K/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Sway Links:
Eventually, I want to go with a SwayLoc and I don't really want to spend for the JKS discos. I'm looking at Zone's extended sway links front and rear. I can make DIY discos for the time being.
Front: Zone Sway Links 3-4 Lift - J5303
Rear: Zone Sway Links 2-3 Lift - J5200

I'll order a driveshaft from Tom Woods and evaluate the need for an adjustable rear track bar once its all installed.
 
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Still waiting on tank straps... Amazon says they're in stock, expected to arrive 10/30 :unsure: I'm attempting to cancel and/or return them. Ordered a set from Summit. We'll see which one gets here first.

Lots of little updates:
Scored a factory front bumper from a buddy. The pro comp steel bumper that was on there wasn't deep enough for both top-side bolts. My guess is it was meant to pair with a winch plate? The factory bumper looks much better, its lighter and the tow hooks sit level now.
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I pulled the factory locker pumps. They are a mess and the caps are a little rusty. I'll clean them up before relocating them. They both still work and hold pressure.
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Installed Polk DB522 speakers up front.
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Fixed the fog light switch in the multi-function unit on the column. Used my pretty pink junk towel this time. Just need fog lights now. I found set of KCs for $80 locally that I might pick up.
PXL_20211102_155257019.MP.jpg


Still need to tackle the broken rear bumper bolts. I might get to it this evening.
 
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Finally back on the road. Gave up on Amazon and ordered tank straps from Summit. They arrived in two days and Amazon finally let me cancel my original order.

I took another look at the installed lugs. The kit looks like its made by Gorilla. You can see in #47, the lugs are evenly slotted. I was never given a key, but I found a slotted key online that works perfectly. I started swapping the lugs, get the fronts done and move to the rear passenger wheel and the lugs are different... All 5 of the unique keyed lugs are on this one wheel.🤨 I've been told discount tire will get them off if you don't have the key for fairly cheap. I'll give them a call today.
 
The stars aligned yesterday. I had the day off thanks to the brave American's who defend our great country (working for a bank has its perks), but the kids still had school and the wife still had work. I had the entire day to do Jeep things.

I picked up a set of KC Apollo Pro's off craigslist for $80. I'll clean them up and wire them up over the weekend. I'm not sure if they are the 55w or 100w versions. Can I use the factory wiring with 100w fogs? I know I can get the 55w bulbs for them easily if needed.

Lowes has their 50-250ft/lb Craftsman torque wrench on sale for $50. I picked one up. I know craftsman maybe isn't what I used to be, but the sale price on this one is less than half of the HF Icon wrench i was looking to get. The 20-100ft/lb version is also on sale.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-1-2-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench-50-ft-lb-to-250-ft-lb/1000772366
I dropped the t-case skid and found more rust than i expected/hoped. There's some pitting on the frame rails but after cleaning it up with the grinder, they are still solid. The skid is in worse shape. I'll be adding a replacement to the list of parts to buy. Looking at the UCF extra clearance version. Nutserts looked ok, much better than expected. I have a replacement set from Mr Blaine that I'll probably swap in when i do the skid.

Once everything was clean, I started @Irun's paint prescription hitting the bare spots with rust reformer. Primer goes on tonight and top coat Saturday morning.

While the skid is off, I drained and filled the transmission. Drain plug magnet was pretty full of micro-shavings. I'll drain and fill the transfer case this evening.
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I'm still fighting with the keyed lug nuts on the last wheel. I've tried a bunch of sockets and nothing seems to fit well enough. A 17mm deep socket was close but i could not get it to seat on the nut enough to break the torque. Discount Tire was kind of iffy when I called, but I think I'm going to take it to them and see if they can do it.
 
PRNDL said:
I'm still fighting with the keyed lug nuts on the last wheel. I've tried a bunch of sockets and nothing seems to fit well enough. A 17mm deep socket was close but i could not get it to seat on the nut enough to break the torque. Discount Tire was kind of iffy when I called, but I think I'm going to take it to them and see if they can do it.
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You try all these

 
Apparition said:
You try all these

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The issue with mine is the lugs don't protrude past the face of the wheel combined with the dish of the moab prevents me from using most of the methods. The second issue is the lugs are relatively small, ~17mm. The tool on the shelf at my auto parts store would be too big.

My best bet is to find a socket i can pound on the lug and to be honest, I haven't taken the 3lb sledge to it, but it looks like that's the missing piece.

If a $5 socket doesn't do it, the next step after that would be to get these from amazon and see if the 17mm will work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0836W16JN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I used a socket that is made to be hammered on to a rounded over nut to remove the wheel locks that were on mine.
 
CV04TJR said:
I used a socket that is made to be hammered on to a rounded over nut to remove the wheel locks that were on mine.
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Interesting. Something like that sounds like it would work. Any chance you have a link?
 
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