Probably going to change rear ends

ladean2185

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So long story short my yoke got removed from the rear end after my u joint broke. At the time I didn't know to count the turns when I took the nut off and now I'm pretty sure I screwed up. I'm thinking real hard about getting a new rear end and just swapping them put. I have the Dana 35 with limited slip, what is interchangeable with it. Thanks for any help with this disaster lol

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The only other axle you can swap in there with no modification would be a Dana 44 rear end from a 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ. That will bolt right up without any issue at all.

Other than that though, anything else is going to require some fabrication / modification.
 
And since you can build a Super 35 and make it easily strong enough to run 35" tires, I suggest going that route. The Dana 44 TJ axles are harder to come by, cost a lot more, and while they may be stronger, you'll also pay a lot more.

The Dana 44 does add to resale value though for sure!
 
So long story short my yoke got removed from the rear end after my u joint broke. At the time I didn't know to count the turns when I took the nut off and now I'm pretty sure I screwed up. I'm thinking real hard about getting a new rear end and just swapping them put. I have the Dana 35 with limited slip, what is interchangeable with it. Thanks for any help with this disaster lol
Use a torque wrench and tighten the nut to between 165 and 185 ft-lbs. it should be fine. The crush sleeve inside the differential has some elasticity so it should be fine after tightening it that amount. Tom Wood of Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts gave me that suggestion nearly 20 years ago and it has worked fine for me and others. Apply Blue Loctite to the threads on the pinion shaft where the pinion nut will end up. A new pinion nut is best but...
 
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Use a torque wrench and tighten the nut to between 165 and 185 ft-lbs. it should be fine. The crush sleeve inside the differential has some elasticity so it should be fine after tightening it that amount. Tom Wood of Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts gave me that suggestion nearly 20 years ago and it has worked fine for me and others. Apply Blue Loctite to the threads on the pinion shaft where the pinion nut will end up. A new pinion nut is best but...
Would this be a good replacement
4962730491636df1d3d8a1da6e80e8ad.jpg


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So, what exactly happened? Sounds like the straps broke, then the rear end does not roll forward, then you have removed the yoke?? Can you spell it all out so we can help you correctly?
 
Would this be a good replacement View attachment 31848
U-bolt conversion kits are not recommended as it's WAY too easy to overtighten them and crush the bearing cups which will ruin the u-joint bearings. Not to mention there's really no need and no benefit to converting from straps to u-bolts. The straps are not really holding much, it is the yoke the u-joint sits in that takes all of the stress. The strap's only job is to keep the bearing cap seated fully down into the yoke so the yoke can hang onto it.
 
So, what exactly happened? Sounds like the straps broke, then the rear end does not roll forward, then you have removed the yoke?? Can you spell it all out so we can help you correctly?
I'm assuming that the strap or u joint broke because the driveshaft fell out. I got the vehicle off the road and picked the driveshaft up and drove the rest of the way home in 4wd. The next day when I started working on it I noticed the bolts were broke out of the strap so I took the yoke off to replace it. When I tried to get the jeep back in the yard since I had to order parts the back wheels wouldn't roll forward but would roll freely backwards.

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I'm assuming that the strap or u joint broke because the driveshaft fell out. I got the vehicle off the road and picked the driveshaft up and drove the rest of the way home in 4wd. The next day when I started working on it I noticed the bolts were broke out of the strap so I took the yoke off to replace it. When I tried to get the jeep back in the yard since I had to order parts the back wheels wouldn't roll forward but would roll freely backwards.

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Gotcha. It does not roll because the pinion is now loose and hanging up on the carrier, so don't force it. The yoke you posted will work fine. Like Jerry eluded to, do not over tighten the u bolts. Of course you need new u joints and a check of the shaft for damage and balance. Good idea to check the front shaft too.
 
Gotcha. It does not roll because the pinion is now loose and hanging up on the carrier, so don't force it. The yoke you posted will work fine. Like Jerry eluded to, do not over tighten the u bolts. Of course you need new u joints and a check of the shaft for damage and balance. Good idea to check the front shaft too.
Already had a new u joint and since the driveshaft is already out I'm going to replace the front one also

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Ok I got everything put back together today and it will roll like 10 feet or so then feels like it's trying to lock up. The replacement yoke still has alot of slack it seems like compared to the 1st one but I've got it tightened up. Should I keep tightening it to take some of the movement out?

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Well good news, I took the yoke back off just to double check everything and put it back together. So far it seems like everything is right I've drove it around 10 miles and had it up to 70mph and there was no noises or vibrations. Hopefully it's fixed

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