That’s because they only sell the front locker pump. For the rear you can modify the connector as you did. He’s talking about a pump from something besides a Jeep Rubicon.
PSA - OEM Rubicon Locker Air Pump
- Thread starter ccg_ga
- Start date
For the connector I cut both my factory ends off and used a random connector. It’s just a positive and negative.
No one sells the rear pump anymore so the factory connector is pretty useless and it’s just a standard 12v positive negative connection.
Not necessarily, you can reuse the cavity many times. Like I said if you don’t mind cutting your factory harness, cut away.
While we are on this topic has anyone measured the amp draw on these pumps? I currently have mine hooked up to relays but thinking that might be overkill. The factory uses relays but I believe that is mostly because of the communications with the PCM.
I know no major harm in using a relay but doing another project here soon which I want to go in the location I put the locker relays, thanks!
I know no major harm in using a relay but doing another project here soon which I want to go in the location I put the locker relays, thanks!
I have not checked the current draw. It can’t be much because the circuit used 18ga wire.
OP
I haven't measured it either. I checked a couple of the other posts that I found while researching how to fix mine and I didn't see it mentioned in any of those but I will take another look tomorrow.
Hm, back to connector pins, I get the idea, but it's not immediately obvious to me since it doesn't look like ones from FSM or I've found on youtube so far. For reference, I'm replacing the front pump and since I'm this close would like to salvage original connectors if possible. I started to remove the rear clip (pic 1 - IMG_2013), as for the 3 metal pins themselves doesn't look like there's much of a gap around or on either side to slide in, and then there's just 2 extra holes (see pic 2 - IMG_2005), not sure if those are somehow supposed to release all 3, or should go in from back. Are you supposed to hook into the 2 holes in the red insert and pull that out first?
My replacement pump was the suzuki part, I was easily able to pull out the center orange tab (pic 3 - IMG_2007) and looks more similar (pic 4 - IMG_2008) to instructions from there. This (pic 5 - IMG_2010) is the key chain of tools I got off Amazon.
My replacement pump was the suzuki part, I was easily able to pull out the center orange tab (pic 3 - IMG_2007) and looks more similar (pic 4 - IMG_2008) to instructions from there. This (pic 5 - IMG_2010) is the key chain of tools I got off Amazon.
Absolutely no need to run relays to turn those little compressors on. Mine are each controlled by a simple on-off switch with a 5 amp fuse.
The factory uses relays solely to control the order in which the lockers can be engaged as well as confirming their statuses.
That’s looks like an Aptiv GT 150 series connector. Insert your hook tool into one of the service holes inside the cavity and pull out the primary lock reinforcement, then you should be able to remove the wire & terminal. My personal experience has been it develops a memory and needs a little coaxing with a flat blade terminal release tool.
Last edited:
Well, thanks for the info. Removing the connector from the suzuki part went pretty easy. For the Jeep part, I was able to pull out the inner red cap, decent little pliers worked ok on that little tab - didn't seem to have a hook tool. I could not for the life of me get the pins to release with anything from the front. I also realized there's a different solid rubber weather seal in back. After tugging I eventually broke off all the wires and the round cylinder tool from the back was the only thing able to unlock the pins and push out from front. All that said and done, putting back together, I eventually realized the suzuki pins are shorter and with red inner cap in place just barely hang out. So I guess I'm back to just replacing with my own connectors since I've also destroyed the original connector pins and won't be able to use it as an adapter.
Are generic 1/4" spade connectors (with heat shrink covers plus additional heat shrink tubing and connections wrapped in electrical tape) a good enough option or are there other suggestions? I was also thinking about swapping genders with polarity (from vehicle side covered female for positive, and exposed male for ground) so that reconnecting would be obvious in future. I kind of hate cutting off the OEM connector left on vehicle (I've only had my basically stock Jeep for about a year and trying to keep everything reversible and "professional looking"), but I guess chances of finding an actual replacement are slim at this point.
Are generic 1/4" spade connectors (with heat shrink covers plus additional heat shrink tubing and connections wrapped in electrical tape) a good enough option or are there other suggestions? I was also thinking about swapping genders with polarity (from vehicle side covered female for positive, and exposed male for ground) so that reconnecting would be obvious in future. I kind of hate cutting off the OEM connector left on vehicle (I've only had my basically stock Jeep for about a year and trying to keep everything reversible and "professional looking"), but I guess chances of finding an actual replacement are slim at this point.
Why not that the chance to move their location to the engine now if you are having to mess with a new connector? For the front it will be really easy because you just need to trim the front airline.
You want to use a sealed connector. Weatherpack connectors are popular and available anywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VK5B3N/?tag=wranglerorg-20
