Question about installing control arm bolts

Eddie Greenlee

Eddie Greenlee

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I’m installing new double adjustable control arms on the front lower. The control arm brackets on the axle have the slotted hole for the canter bolt with the off set washer. the new control arms came with regular grade 8 hex bolts. im thinking no way can I use the regular hex bolts , because the control arm will slide back and forth in the slot of the control arm bracket .????? I’m guessing I need to use the canter bolts that came off the jeep. Please advise me.. thanks
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
I’m installing new double adjustable control arms on the front lower. The control arm brackets on the axle have the slotted hole for the canter bolt with the off set washer. the new control arms came with regular grade 8 hex bolts. im thinking no way can I use the regular hex bolts , because the control arm will slide back and forth in the slot of the control arm bracket .????? I’m guessing I need to use the canter bolts that came off the jeep. Please advise me.. thanks
Click to expand...
The big washer on the bolts isn't what stops the bolt from sliding back and forth.
 
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I’m not sure what to do here. When you install new control arms (mine are double adjustable Johnny joints) do you use the standard hex bolts that come with the arms or do you use the bolts with the thick offset washer ?
 
Set up your front axel for a forward angle of at least 6 degrees. The adjustment of the arm is to create a geometry where your caster is at a starting point of 6 degreese forward (top). you may need to change this to your drive-line dynamics.
 
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can I use the supplied NON greasing hex bolts with these Johnny Joint washers, or should I grab a set of Currie Greaseable bolts?
 
4" suspension and 1.25 body lift
35" tires
adjustable control arms
dana 30 stock axle with 4.11 gears and aussie locker
What would be a good Pinion angle to start with ? and would be a good caster angle to start with ? thanks
Prior to changing my control arms my pinion angle was 7 degrees measureing from a flat point under the differential close to the yoke. When I get it back to that degree Im guessing my ride should be back to where it was ?
 
Last edited:
These! The one from Black Magic.

74D15137-DA8B-44DB-801F-15DB73788BE1.jpeg
 
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Eddie Greenlee said:
I’m not sure what to do here. When you install new control arms (mine are double adjustable Johnny joints) do you use the standard hex bolts that come with the arms or do you use the bolts with the thick offset washer ?
Click to expand...
Either is fine. I much prefer a non eccentric without the offset hole which is not needed with adjustable control arms. Any quality grade 8 washer with the hex head bolts will work fine. I like the fender washer that Currie and Savvy supply so you can tell easily when the bolt is centered in the slot.

The bolt clamping down on the outside of the mount and clamping it against the end of the bolt sleeve is what stops it from moving, not the size of the washer.
 
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Mike the Silver TJ said:
OK, what does stop the bolt from sliding back and forth

Which bolts should he use?
Click to expand...
The same thing that prevents all other slip critical connections on our rigs from moving, friction. Friction developed when the bolt clamps the mount to the bolt sleeve or a similar arrangement. The joint not moving has very little to do with hole size within reason. The joint not moving is purely based on the bolt being a very powerful clamp.
 
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