Question about installing control arm bolts

I’m down :)
Motor mount bracket to motor mount.
Front body mount, rear 4 body mounts at frame
Door hinge at door and tub
Tailgate hinges at tailgate
Door latch at door opening
Tailgate latch at tub
Trackbar bolt at axle
Trackbar bolt at rear axle and frame
Swaybar mount bolts at axle rear
Swaybar link bolts
Steering stabilizer bolt at front axle mount
Hood hinges at cowl
All control arm bolts
All bolts and nuts that hold rim to axles and unit bearings

Those are a few of the slip critical connections on our rigs and they all have one thing in common, what?
 
Motor mount bracket to motor mount.
Front body mount, rear 4 body mounts at frame
Door hinge at door and tub
Tailgate hinges at tailgate
Door latch at door opening
Tailgate latch at tub
Trackbar bolt at axle
Trackbar bolt at rear axle and frame
Swaybar mount bolts at axle rear
Swaybar link bolts
Steering stabilizer bolt at front axle mount
Hood hinges at cowl
All control arm bolts
All bolts and nuts that hold rim to axles and unit bearings

Those are a few of the slip critical connections on our rigs and they all have one thing in common, what?
They rely on the tension exerted by the stretched bolt.
 
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They rely on the tension exerted by the stretched bolt.
Yes, but the hole size is not critical to the stabilization of the connection. I picked all of those because until the fastener is tightened, they all have fasteners that move around in the hole(s) until proper tightening is achieved.
 
Yes, but the hole size is not critical to the stabilization of the connection. I picked all of those because until the fastener is tightened, they all have fasteners that move around in the hole(s) until proper tightening is achieved.
That’s why it has always frustrated me to hear uninformed advice given to those with worn or wallowed holes in key locations like track bars and control arms. I then ask them to explain the difference between a connection with a slot, and a wallowed hole, and they get quiet.
 
That’s why it has always frustrated me to hear uninformed advice given to those with worn or wallowed holes in key locations like track bars and control arms. I then ask them to explain the difference between a connection with a slot, and a wallowed hole, and they get quiet.
Get ready to stay frustrated. I even see smart folks recommend weld washers and shit. They know, but they don't trust what they know.
 
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FYI - I finished installing my control arms. Pinion angle are back to where it was prior to disconnecting the old control arms. I’ll finish checking torque specs on bolts and measuring wheel base to wheel base and tightening jam nuts tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for your help.
 
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Set up your front axel for a forward angle of at least 6 degrees. The adjustment of the arm is to create a geometry where your caster is at a starting point of 6 degreese forward (top). you may need to change this to your drive-line dynamics.
Sorry, I didn't state that well, the line through your ball joints should tilt toward the rear of the vehicle as shown in this image. I have seen from 5 degrees to as much as 8 degrees. 6 is what I have seen most often as standard. The line at a slight angle shows the tilt.

caster-fig.gif
 
Sorry, I didn't state that well, the line through your ball joints should tilt toward the rear of the vehicle as shown in this image. I have seen from 5 degrees to as much as 8 degrees. 6 is what I have seen most often as standard. The line at a slight angle shows the tilt.

View attachment 145797

If the pinon allows it.
 
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