Question about running 35s with a 2" lift

Not really. You're just choosing to impose your opinion on a poster who only asked if they could simply fit a 35 with a 2" and some better clearing fenders. I read the OP's COMPLETE post and the OP seemed crystal to me...
Apparently it’s NOT crystal clear to you.

From the Original Post:
“Also, If I ran 35's would I run into other issues such as the steering pump not able to handle ....

Clearly, CLEARLY, stated would I run into other issues.

I’m not being a smart ass, You’re pointing fingers, and you apparently have a reading comprehension issue. He ASKED if he’d run into other issues, and people are pointing them out.
 
Shock travel is stock, I have about 2 inches of room at full stuff in the rear with my cut wheel wells and my front barely clears with the 33's but I'm in the process of highlining the front fenders so that should give me the addition room I need for 35's until I get around to lifting it. Winter is coming fast here in Canada and I need new tires. I'm not too keen on buying new 33's just to replace them with 35's in the spring ( planning on doing a 3.5-4 inch lift over the winter )

How much suspension and body lift again?
 
No suspension lift atm that is coming over the winter months but I do have a 1 inch body lift. I want to do a tummy tuck too so I had to do a body lift.

Have you fully cycled the axles without springs installed to check the tire clearances?
 
Have you fully cycled the axles without springs installed to check the tire clearances?
Yes, I have about 2 inches of room in the back at full stuff and the front touches with 33's but I am in the process of hi lining the front fenders which I'm hoping will give me the clearance needed for 35's until I install a lift. I know it's going to be tight but I won't be wheeling again until the lift is installed. My local trails close for the winter months starting Nov 6th
 
Yes, I have about 2 inches of room in the back at full stuff and the front touches with 33's but I am in the process of hi lining the front fenders which I'm hoping will give me the clearance needed for 35's until I install a lift. I know it's going to be tight but I won't be wheeling again until the lift is installed. My local trails close for the winter months starting Nov 6th

Being fairly well versed in fitting both 33s and 35s with narrow margins, I'll trust your findings. But not without a great deal of doubt and skepticism. As mentioned earlier, your chances of success getting 35s to fit without losing the stock shock travels will be heavily dependent on which highline fenders you go with.

I happen to know that 33s, 9" shocks and 1.5" of bump stop will just barely clear the front fenders at full stuff, full lock. Stock shocks will help that some, but not much. The rears are much easier to deal with.
 
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My front fenders have already been cut as much as they possibly can. To clear the 33's. They do touch at full stuff. I don't have a front sway bar but the 33's do rub the control arms at full steering lock. I do plan on getting wheels with better backspacing when going up to the 35's to account for the larger tire ( I know itl rub worse when turning if I don't ) I am going to be doing a home brew hi line front fender using the stock fenders that I already have cut to maximize clearance.
Again I just want to point out that my local trails close in like 2 weeks for the winter so the next time I'll be wheeling there will be a lift. Honestly I'm more worried about the rear than I am the front as I don't want to cut anymore in the rear.
Being fairly well versed in fitting both 33s and 35s with narrow margins, I'll trust your findings. But not without a great deal of doubt and skepticism. As mentioned earlier, your chances of success getting 35s to fit without losing the stock shock travels will be heavily dependent on which highline fenders you go with.

I happen to know that 33s, 9" shocks and 1.5" of bump stop will just barely clear the front fenders at full stuff, full lock. Stock shocks will help that some, but not much.
 
My front fenders have already been cut as much as they possibly can. To clear the 33's. They do touch at full stuff. I don't have a front sway bar but the 33's do rub the control arms at full steering lock. I do plan on getting wheels with better backspacing when going up to the 35's to account for the larger tire ( I know itl rub worse when turning if I don't ) I am going to be doing a home brew hi line front fender using the stock fenders that I already have cut to maximize clearance.
Again I just want to point out that my local trails close in like 2 weeks for the winter so the next time I'll be wheeling there will be a lift. Honestly I'm more worried about the rear than I am the front as I don't want to cut anymore in the rear.
Pictures would be super helpful here to showcase the cutting of the front fenders to help with fitment.
 
Do the Metal cloak rear fenders remove anything from the body? Because if they don’t the body will be the first to contact the tires, unless he bump stops the rear so much that he removes almost all of his travel. As far as I know they don’t, I helped my brother install some on his jeep. Maybe there is a different version that I’m not aware of. The point of contact will more then likely be the front part of the wheel opening. The wheel opening if I recall correctly is right around 35”. So will the tires fit, for sure, but hit a small bump and the metal tub will be cutting into his new tires... not advice I would want to give. But I would advise adding a body lift if cost is an issue

I have the MC mod cut plate And it only takes off the rear portion of the well. However, in the front, my 35’s did not rub on the wheel well itself but it rubbed on the pinch seam inside the wheel well.
 
Being fairly well versed in fitting both 33s and 35s with narrow margins, I'll trust your findings. But not without a great deal of doubt and skepticism. As mentioned earlier, your chances of success getting 35s to fit without losing the stock shock travels will be heavily dependent on which highline fenders you go with.

I happen to know that 33s, 9" shocks and 1.5" of bump stop will just barely clear the front fenders at full stuff, full lock. Stock shocks will help that some, but not much. The rears are much easier to deal with.
I wasn't to optimistic on posting back on this thread but I wasn't sure on any other way to do this.
I came here just to thank you for your knowledge, over the winter months I decided to just lift it 3 inches and keep my 33's. They haven't held me up so why fight with the fitment of 35's.