Question for the fabricators amongst us
- Thread starter mrblaine
- Start date
OP
The vast majority of press brake bends are air bends where the material being bent is not pushed into the bottom of the die by the punch. Coined or coining is when you want a really tight radius and you bottom the top punch out against the die with the material hit hard so it coins or forms the bend like they do with a coin press.
So intense pressure in order to bottom out the part can lead to cracking the die. Makes sense.
OP
If you look at the pic of the crack, there is a mark from something hitting the bottom of the die. I can't tell if that is from the material or the punch.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Ok I really like how now you don't have to lift the stiffener with the skid plate. I bet it's quite a bit lighter than the plate design? Now I want to tie my stiffener into the frame. Assuming you used nutserts on side?
Do you got room for a muffler?
the material got driven into the bed, they set the blade down to the bottom and then tried to bend something,
OP
The top legs of the side triangles shoot up above the frame so that it is steep enough for the exhaust pipe exiting the cat to go through. That angle was determined by the exhaust pipe first. There is room for a cat over the skid and room for a muffler behind.
I needed another crossmember since the frame on this one is so long. I also added extra nutserts to add some connection to the belly skid since there is more body being supported with an additional body mount. There was some consideration given to matching the left side hole pattern with the right side. The 97-02 have a cut out in the OEM skid for the muffler and the rear nutsert is closer to the middle one so the pattern is asymmetrical. I made them the same which abandoned the original rearmost nutsert on the right side.
Yes, nutserts in the frame to attach the ends of the stiffener.
As far as strength from the 1/8” frame mounts I think that is absolutely fine. Especially like you say once it is essentially boxed when the bushing, spacer and bolt go it. I will be honest and say I used to be of the thought beef everything up but over the years and with more experience I am now thinking things through before throwing more metal at problems. And I may be still over thinking my crossmember plans. I’m planning to build a cross member for not only the trans but also tied into the Atlas 4 speed as a support for that 115# heavy pig this winter. So I’m thinking about making almost like an H shaped mount. Will use 4 bushings at the frame but then tie the two cross mounts together as well so that it locks the trans and T case together so they do not move separately. I keep worrying that that heavy Tcase is going to crack the trans at the mounts bouncing around offroad. Do you happen to have the part number for the bushings you speak of. I searched the site you mentioned but find they have a lot of different bushings available
Thanks
OP
https://autofab.com/i-9903089-1-5-bushing-assembly.html
I don't see an option for softer bushings though.
Question. Are you stuck with using the modified stock trans mount? If not why not build a custom one (or 2) that follows the radius of the transmission-transfer case where they join (possibly on the back of the TC as well) then you can push the assembly as high into the body as you’d like to modify it to.
That is kinda what Nth Degree did but it was a single plate with two industrial isolators for the dampening.
Not that one wants to just copy someone but there is nothing wrong with improving and existing design. After I posted my little sketch I was looking and Genright is doing what I suggested but only off the back crossmember so my idea isn’t new, it could just improve what they did by using the rear design for the front side.
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