not familiar with the term, care to elaborate?There is a reason they warn against coining stuff.
not familiar with the term, care to elaborate?There is a reason they warn against coining stuff.
The vast majority of press brake bends are air bends where the material being bent is not pushed into the bottom of the die by the punch. Coined or coining is when you want a really tight radius and you bottom the top punch out against the die with the material hit hard so it coins or forms the bend like they do with a coin press.not familiar with the term, care to elaborate?
So intense pressure in order to bottom out the part can lead to cracking the die. Makes sense.The vast majority of press brake bends are air bends where the material being bent is not pushed into the bottom of the die by the punch. Coined or coining is when you want a really tight radius and you bottom the top punch out against the die with the material hit hard so it coins or forms the bend like they do with a coin press.
If you look at the pic of the crack, there is a mark from something hitting the bottom of the die. I can't tell if that is from the material or the punch.So intense pressure in order to bottom out the part can lead to cracking the die. Makes sense.
Ok I really like how now you don't have to lift the stiffener with the skid plate. I bet it's quite a bit lighter than the plate design? Now I want to tie my stiffener into the frame. Assuming you used nutserts on side?
they shoved it through the bottom, fools had no business touchin the machine.If you look at the pic of the crack, there is a mark from something hitting the bottom of the die. I can't tell if that is from the material or the punch.
the material got driven into the bed, they set the blade down to the bottom and then tried to bend something,If you look at the pic of the crack, there is a mark from something hitting the bottom of the die. I can't tell if that is from the material or the punch.
The top legs of the side triangles shoot up above the frame so that it is steep enough for the exhaust pipe exiting the cat to go through. That angle was determined by the exhaust pipe first. There is room for a cat over the skid and room for a muffler behind.Ok I really like how now you don't have to lift the stiffener with the skid plate. I bet it's quite a bit lighter than the plate design? Now I want to tie my stiffener into the frame. Assuming you used nutserts on side?
Do you got room for a muffler?
As far as strength from the 1/8” frame mounts I think that is absolutely fine. Especially like you say once it is essentially boxed when the bushing, spacer and bolt go it. I will be honest and say I used to be of the thought beef everything up but over the years and with more experience I am now thinking things through before throwing more metal at problems. And I may be still over thinking my crossmember plans. I’m planning to build a cross member for not only the trans but also tied into the Atlas 4 speed as a support for that 115# heavy pig this winter. So I’m thinking about making almost like an H shaped mount. Will use 4 bushings at the frame but then tie the two cross mounts together as well so that it locks the trans and T case together so they do not move separately. I keep worrying that that heavy Tcase is going to crack the trans at the mounts bouncing around offroad. Do you happen to have the part number for the bushings you speak of. I searched the site you mentioned but find they have a lot of different bushings availableBushing location is odd when it comes to predicting how that will react to vibe reduction. I do extra to keep the vibes down and even more oddly, I've found that the smaller versions from Autofab work better than the larger ones do. Not quite sure why though.
https://autofab.com/i-9903089-1-5-bushing-assembly.htmlAs far as strength from the 1/8” frame mounts I think that is absolutely fine. Especially like you say once it is essentially boxed when the bushing, spacer and bolt go it. I will be honest and say I used to be of the thought beef everything up but over the years and with more experience I am now thinking things through before throwing more metal at problems. And I may be still over thinking my crossmember plans. I’m planning to build a cross member for not only the trans but also tied into the Atlas 4 speed as a support for that 115# heavy pig this winter. So I’m thinking about making almost like an H shaped mount. Will use 4 bushings at the frame but then tie the two cross mounts together as well so that it locks the trans and T case together so they do not move separately. I keep worrying that that heavy Tcase is going to crack the trans at the mounts bouncing around offroad. Do you happen to have the part number for the bushings you speak of. I searched the site you mentioned but find they have a lot of different bushings available
Thanks
That is kinda what Nth Degree did but it was a single plate with two industrial isolators for the dampening.
Not that one wants to just copy someone but there is nothing wrong with improving and existing design. After I posted my little sketch I was looking and Genright is doing what I suggested but only off the back crossmember so my idea isn’t new, it could just improve what they did by using the rear design for the front side.That is kinda what Nth Degree did but it was a single plate with two industrial isolators for the dampening.
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