Question on re-gearing axles

[GTboosted]

I'm thinking of going to 4.10 from 3.73. I have the 30/44 combo

My quote is for

Regear front and rear
Master install kits
Front and rear air lockers
Front 30 spline chromoly axles

Doesn't that mean my axles are fully rebuilt except the rear shafts?

 

[Rob5589]

Mostly. I do not see rear axle bearings, inner axle seals in front. Neither are generally included in install kits. Just so you know, 3.73 to 4.10 will be about a 190 rpm difference, so not much. Not sure I would even spend the money to make such a small change. I can tell you from experience, re-gearing from 3.73-4.10 often came with disappointment for customers.

 

[JDS123]

I agree with what @Rob5589 said. I don't think going to 4.10 from 3.73 would be worth the expense. Also, one thing I wish I did when I had my gear and lockers installed was spring for a full axle rebuild including seals. It would have save me a lot of money and aggravation in the long run. A couple of my axle seals started leaking only a few thousand miles after I had most of the axle pulled apart. The Jeep had 191,000 miles on it at the time, so I should have expected that and had it done all at the same time.

 

[GTboosted]

Thanks for informing me about the seals. What would the seals run?

My front diff developed a noise on acceleration so it needs a rebuild. I also want to get 33s and lockers so I figured might as well go to 4.10s instead of rebuilding the front and paying labor for the locker install only. Save money by doing it all at once.


Btw I have no OD with my 32rh

 

[jjvw]

How did you arrive at 4.10? What transmission and what tire size?

 

[CodaMan]

I agree with @Rob5589 as well. Why do you need 4.10 gears? What size tires are you running? What transmission?

 

[GTboosted]

I'm on 31s and want 33s with lockers.

Front diff needs a rebuild so I think might as well go for 4.10s and do a full rebuild for peace of mind. Just needed to know what to ask my installer.

99 TJ 32rh

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'm on 31s and want 33s with lockers.

Front diff needs a rebuild so I think might as well go for 4.10s and do a full rebuild for peace of mind. Just needed to know what to ask my installer.

99 TJ 32rh

You must have done a little research on that axle ratio, 4.10 is exactly what you want to run with 33's and your 32RH transmission. Do you think you might ever get to 35" tires? If so I'd consider regearing to 4.56 instead.

There's absolutely no need to install 30 spline shafts up front. You can stay with the OE 27 spline design with aftermarket 4340 shafts which are more than strong enough for even 35" tires, locker, and very tough trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ. It's very expensive to go to 30 spline shafts up front. Your rear Dana 44 is strong enough as is for 33's and a locker. You might only consider upgraded alloy shafts in the rear when/if you go with 35" tires.

 

[GTboosted]

You must have done a little research on that axle ratio, 4.10 is exactly what you want to run with 33's and your 32RH transmission. Do you think you might ever get to 35" tires? If so I'd consider regearing to 4.56 instead.

Yeah and actually during the research you popped up all over the place. Thanks for your contributions.

I dont think I will go with 35s since I drive 6 hours one way where I plan to take this. I hope I dont regret it later...

 

[Rob5589]

Front seals are about 9 bucks each, rear bearings around 25 each. Do not skip on the front seals. In order to change them the entire carrier has to be removed. They were a non-option option in the shop.

4.10 will work great with a 33.

 

[GTboosted]

Thank you @Rob5589

This is why I was asking. Wanted to make sure I can do everything for a full rebuild when its apart.

 

[GTboosted]

There's absolutely no need to install 30 spline shafts up front. You can stay with the OE 27 spline design with aftermarket 4340 shafts which are more than strong enough for even 35" tires, locker, and very tough trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ. It's very expensive to go to 30 spline shafts up front. Your rear Dana 44 is strong enough as is for 33's and a locker. You might only consider upgraded alloy shafts in the rear when/if you go with 35" tires.

My installer recommended to at least do the U-joints to the upgraded spicers which is $275 for parts and labor.

I then asked how much for 4340 axles and he said $400 extra for the 30 spline axles.

I migh as well do that. Probably overkill but only $125 more than just the u joints.

 

[jjvw]

That's a lot of money for u joints.

 

[Rob5589]

275 for two axle u joints installed??? The 5-760x are like 20 bucks each.

 

[jjvw]

275 for two axle u joints installed??? The 5-760x are like 20 bucks each.

Plus the cost of a hammer (and a 36mm socket and some other tools everyone should have anyway).

 

[GTboosted]

That's what I was thinking. They look pretty easy to do too....pricey just for the u-joints. That's why I asked about the axles.

But upgrading the locker and inner and outer shafts to 30 spline chromoly is a good price at $400 either way. I think

 

[Jerry Bransford]

275 for two axle u joints installed??? The 5-760x are like 20 bucks each.

I hear you but there's more to replacing axle shaft u-joints than just the u-joints themselves. The wheels and brakes have to be removed, the unit bearing hub has to be removed, then the axle shaft has to be removed before you can even get to the u-joint. There's no less than 60 minutes book time labor per side to remove, replace the u-joints, then reinstall everything and that's if you know what you're doing. 2-2.5 hours of labor minimum for both sides plus the cost of the u-joints.

 

[GTboosted]

What are the recommended seals and rear bearing?

Anyone have part numbers?

 

[Rob5589]

What are the recommended seals and rear bearing?

Anyone have part numbers?

Timken Set10

 

[Rob5589]

I hear you but there's more to replacing axle shaft u-joints than just the u-joints themselves. The wheels and brakes have to be removed, the unit bearing hub has to be removed, then the axle shaft has to be removed before you can even get to the u-joint. There's no less than 60 minutes book time labor per side to remove, replace the u-joints, then reinstall everything and that's if you know what you're doing. 2-2.5 hours of labor minimum for both sides plus the cost of the u-joints.

Most of that is taken care of if they are doing a re-gear. I did mine with the unit bearing attached because I could not find my 36mm socket at the time. PITA but easily doable.