Questions about flushing brake fluid
- Thread starter AndyG
- Start date
Use a DOT 3, 4, or 5.1, do not use a DOT 5 which is incompatible with the brake system. If you see a synthetic DOT 3 or 4 or 5.1 go for it but otherwise a conventional is fine. Prestone and Castrol are two good manufacturers of synthetic DOT 4. Keep the bottle closed except while pouring it to prevent moisture getting into the brake fluid which soaks up moisture like a sponge.
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The best tool for this job is an box wrench, piece of tubing between the bleeder and a 20 oz pop clear bottle.
Proceed as if you was bleeding the brakes until feel fresh fluid already run true the system.
Use fluid advice from @Jerry Bransford om post # 3.
Proceed as if you was bleeding the brakes until feel fresh fluid already run true the system.
Use fluid advice from @Jerry Bransford om post # 3.
Best tool is a vacuum bleeder. Pumping fluid with the brake peddle is old school. [emoji6]
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If your near a Harbor Freight they have a decent vacuum bleeder for $20 that comes in very handy.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html
To quote Moneypenny in Skyfall as she shaves James Bond, sometimes the old ways are the best. Our resident brake guru/expert/brake system designer @mrblaine often still pumps the brake pedal when bleeding the brakes.
Not quite often and still, only. I've not found a great way to seal the threads on the bleeders yet and given the effectiveness of manually doing it, I'm not sure I'll spend much time looking for that answer.To quote Moneypenny in Skyfall as she shaves James Bond, sometimes the old ways are the best. Our resident brake guru/expert/brake system designer @mrblaine often still pumps the brake pedal when bleeding the brakes.
What I do know is when we have a problem brought to our attention by a customer with the effectiveness of a brake kit, spongy pedal, or some issue related to bleeding the system correctly, it is always 1 of 2 things. 95% of the time it is related to the use of a vacuum bleeder that I solve with telling them how to do a good manual bleed. The other 5% is doing a gravity bleed which should be done but only to fill the calipers when the system is empty and not as a final bleed.
The thing that is most important that you can't achieve with a vacuum bleed is turbulence and speed of the fluid moving through the caliper to flush out the settled contaminates. You need to move the pedal to the floor with enthusiasm and get the fluid moving through the piston bore to try and get as much crap out of there as possible. Vacuum can't do that.
WDE
TJ Enthusiast
If you are working by yourself the best tool is a one way bleed valve such as the Speed Bleeder( https://www.quadratec.com/products/56202_101.htm ). I've used them on my motorcycles and other vehicles for 15+ years without an issue.
Other helpful tips:
DO NOT let the reservoir run dry and introduce air in the top of the system
Flush/bleed the lines in order of longest to shortest (on TJ right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front)
Clean any fluid spill on the paint immediately, it will quickly ruin the paint
Other helpful tips:
DO NOT let the reservoir run dry and introduce air in the top of the system
Flush/bleed the lines in order of longest to shortest (on TJ right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front)
Clean any fluid spill on the paint immediately, it will quickly ruin the paint
I can't tell you if the pads alone are a noticeable improvement but I can tell you that improvement from the installation of the full big brake kit is not only noticeable, it is substantial.
Once you go Black Magic you'll never go back.
I have 32s. Went with BMB pads and centric rotors. Huge difference in stopping power over whatever was there before. Make sure you follow the break in procedure completely as written.
+1 on method of bleeding that Blaine suggests and use fluid advice from @Jerry Bransford in post # 3. I do like the Motive brake bleeder Andy suggested, I like it so I don't accidentally run out of fluid. I might not have bought it just for the TJ but for modern abs cars like my C300 MB it is needed to bleed those to maintain warranty every 2 years (B Service).
OP
One more question ..are the one way brake nipples worth the money if you have to bleed solo later?
I needed some nipples , it's like 3.00 dollars a pair for stock ones and 14 a pair for the "quick bleeder" one person style.
Andy
I needed some nipples , it's like 3.00 dollars a pair for stock ones and 14 a pair for the "quick bleeder" one person style.
Andy
I can't use them. I've tried but I need to be at the wheel cylinder to see what is going on and diagnose the system and any issues that way. The only way I can do that is at the corner.
Note that I did not say they don't work. I just can't make them work for the way I do things.