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Questions about stretching the frame on a TJ

someguysjeep

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this kit? not even close.

clayton.PNG
 
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jjvw

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this kit? not even close.

View attachment 129261

They aren't. If Clayton does not require an 1.25" body lift and requires small denting to the cargo shelf to maximize the up travel, the Savvy kit has at least that much more vertical separation.

Regarding the radius arm vs a parallel 3 link, one preserves the pinion angle throughout the suspension travel, the other preserves caster. One of those concerns is more significant than the other.
 

mrblaine

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I know Clayton is “out there”. Just “in here”, sometimes the Savvy echo chamber is overwhelming...😁

I get it. You designed it and you’re probably the only suspension designer/builder that participates in forums. Your knowledge is deep. And we’re lucky you share it. But I would surmise that’s why the echo is so loud.

I lost you on the cargo step comment...

Vertical separation of rear arms, frame side: remember I’m not a suspension designer, keep it simple for me.

Savvy mid -arm, rear frame side brackets “look” exactly like mine. Based upon an image from Savvy website of their “TJ mid arm kit“. I get there might be minut differences in the arm angle because of the arm length, but vertical separation seems the same. They’re both a weld on combo, upper and lower bracket... My axle side brackets and bridge/truss seem to be at the same locations as Savvy also...

And even I know to compare apples to apples. I don’t expect the same performance between a radius arm and 3 link setup. I have a 3 link is sitting in the shop waiting to go in. Debating on whether it’s will be enough of a difference to go through the install. So far, following similar wb’s and equipped rigs in my group, my radius arm hasn’t been a factor in my being successful on the same trails/obstacles.
The top of the joint on the midarm rear uppers is right up against the tub with a 1.25" body lift. If you try to do that with a longer arm, the arm runs into the bottom of the tub at full stuff. As it is, we have to clearance the tub when we outboard shocks and get full uptravel on 35's. If the arm were longer, we would have to cut in a channel for them to continue upward.

That difference is critical. I've cut several off and moved them 1/2" higher to make the rig work better on climbs.
 

rasband

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Counterintuitive but move the gas tank back some so you can move it up higher. That does wonders.

Thanks! I will get back under to see what’s there and within my abilities to change. The raised tank with the Savvy GTS is a nice start.
 

mrblaine

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Thanks! I will get back under to see what’s there and within my abilities to change. The raised tank with the Savvy GTS is a nice start.
Another thing that helps is to cut the frame right in front of the second crossmember and raise it up the thickness of the body lift and use the body mounts with no lift pucks. That will net 1.25" with the right body lift.
 
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rasband

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Another thing that helps is to cut the frame right in front of the second crossmember and raise it up the thickness of the body lift and use the body mounts with no lift pucks. That will net 1.25" with the right body lift.

This is something I have been talking about with @jjvw. Right now the plan is the genright body mount lifts and eventually lifting the rear when I get access to a welder (and practice again or hopefully someone better than me).

If I can gain that clearance and shorten the rear I’ll be pretty happy. It may require replacing the Dirtworx rear or sheering off the mounts and relocating them inside the bumper itself (saving about 1.5” or so).
 
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rasband

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I want to say it will be a surprise, but that sounds very ominous. 😂

you're getting me more curious - this spring I should be pretty set to do a few large upgrades once we finish some house work... maybe I can add a 240v socket to that list
 
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toximus

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This is something I have been talking about with @jjvw. Right now the plan is the genright body mount lifts and eventually lifting the rear when I get access to a welder (and practice again or hopefully someone better than me).

If I can gain that clearance and shorten the rear I’ll be pretty happy. It may require replacing the Dirtworx rear or sheering off the mounts and relocating them inside the bumper itself (saving about 1.5” or so).

That sounds like fun. I'm planning on passing through this winter. ;)
 
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toximus

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You look to be good with a welder if you get bored on your trip!

Even if not, we should do a meetup with the locals :)

If you have or can barrow a welding unit I'd love to. And for sure on meeting up, we were planning on doing something last time I was through but I was on too short of notice. Those raised body mounts from GR are the bees knees BTW, I picked up another set for my wife's TJ I'm hoping to install over Christmas.