Questions about tie rod end boot replacement

[Bob.Gibson]

The boots on my 2006 TJ ( done only 50K miles) are cracked. There is no movement in the steering linkage.
I know that providing I grease these regularly it will keep dust and grit out of the joint.
The problem I have is that a few months ago I was a bit careless when greasing. One pair of nipples are very close to the brake rotors and some grease managed to get onto one of the brake rotors without me noticing. This caused the brake pad on that side to get contaminated and grab.
Sure it was my fault entirely and I now check after each greasing session. If it was an easy fix I would like to replace, at a minimum, the two outer boots.
What is the best brand of boot to buy?
Will I need any special tools?

Thanks
Bob

 

[pagrey]

Even with new boots the extra grease has to go somewhere. I'd just be careful and clean up after you grease the joint next time.

I bought a Synergy SYN4131-01 for mine but never installed it for the reason I listed above. It looks nice enough. You might look into Synergy and see if that will fit on your setup. You just need to remove the rod end, it can be tough if you've never worked on a taper joint before.

 

[Goatman]

Clean up your ripped boot and smear some silicon caulking into and over the split part. This will keep most contaminants out. But the only way to prevent grease from coming out is to use less grease each time, but maybe more often. And clean up is the only way to prevent this from happening again.

 

[Feralkid]

I actually replace the rubber boots with polyurethane dealies.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7B5C/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Grease corrodes the rubber boots, polyurethane is superior in this application. Though grease will seep out more initially, because the bottoms aren't sealed with a steel ring like the preinstalled rubber boots, polyurethane will last much much longer without rupturing from decomposition the way rubber will.

In a 4x4 offroad vehicle, I feel having a predetermined port of exit for grease is preferred being that you would want the option of flushing out contaminants from the joint.

Cant flush a rubber boot without it bursting first.

 

[pagrey]

Cant flush a rubber boot without it bursting first.

I think they are "supposed" to burp without breaking. Most boots I've seen don't have metal ties on both ends so they can vent grease without tearing the boot.

 

[Daryl]

[QUOTE
Cant flush a rubber boot without it bursting first.
[/QUOTE]

My Currie tie rod ends have purge ports for the grease to escape.

 

[pagrey]

@Daryl, nobody needed to see your purge port, this is a family friendly site

 

[Daryl]

@Daryl, nobody needed to see your purge port, this is a family friendly site

Lol, the tip does look just like that.

 

[AndyG]

Synergy poly boots are the answer .

Here's the trick to separate a tapered joint - rap it with a ball peen ...not the actual tie rod end, but where it's tapered shaft goes into the next component. Sometimes 5-10 licks , but may may take 25-35 taps , and it will fall right out . Don't hit the threaded end , just actual connection point .

Don't trust hand strength to test connections, turn the wheel and let the Jeeps resistance tell the tale..what appears tight may be pretty bad ...or may only move under a certain load or turn .