Radiator replacement

[InfamousCanadian]

Here is a photo!

 

[jeepndogs]

I just helped a buddy replace his TJ radiator. Tried out my new radiator fill/burp bucket out for the first time. Spill free and the easiest way to let the cooling system purge itself of air. There may be others like this unit that are better, but this worked fine. His cooling system was all new except for the radiator. New radiator dropped it 10°. No visible signs of malfunction, just all there was left that wasn't fresh. I knew we could get it cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If you have access to shop air the vacuum fill systems are slick. I thought the fill funnel was the best thing since sliced bread and then I seen a guy at one of the shops use the vacuum systems. We ordered 500 of them after that and sent one to each shop. That was a few years ago and I don’t thing we had a car come back with a coolant issue since.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Here is a photo!

Perfect. Thanks.

 

[mrblaine]

If you have access to shop air the vacuum fill systems are slick. I thought the fill funnel was the best thing since sliced bread and then I seen a guy at one of the shops use the vacuum systems. We ordered 500 of them after that and sent one to each shop. That was a few years ago and I don’t thing we had a car come back with a coolant issue since.

I bought one for this exact issue. The problem with them is once any coolant enters the
venturi, the vacuum level is severely compromised and the assurance of the air being removed is no longer there. Went back to drilling the flange.

 

[04 LJ]

Kinda wishing I would have gone with a Mopar over the Stant now or at least drilled a hole in the Stant before putting it in last week. I hate this feeling.

 

[jazngab]

@Blaine So just to make sure I’m doing this correctly before reassembling, I should drill a 1/8 hole in the new thermostat in the same place as the old one?

 

[mrblaine]

@Blaine So just to make sure I’m doing this correctly before reassembling, I should drill a 1/8 hole in the new thermostat in the same place as the old one?

View attachment 97497

yes

 

[04 LJ]

@jazngab see the pic posted above of the same tstat you have. The 54mm writing in on the right and the hole is at the top

 

[jazngab]

yes

Thank you. And when replacing the thermostat does the weep hole position at 12:00 or 6:00?

 

[04 LJ]

After we are all done with the flush, engine flushed out, and get it filled, then we run it up to temp with the cap off the radiator to make sure there is no trapped air.

If I try and do this my coolant almost immediately (>30 seconds) starts to spill over the neck and on to everything below. Does this mean there’s still trapped air in there?

 

[04 LJ]

Thank you. And when replacing the thermostat does the weep hole position at 12:00 or 6:00?

I clocked mine a little sideways so the opening would line up with the neck on the housing. Don’t know it that’s right, wrong or doesn’t matter.

 

[jazngab]

@jazngab see the pic posted above of the same tstat you have. The 54mm writing in on the right and the hole is at the top

View attachment 97500

Done.

 

[mrblaine]

If I try and do this my coolant almost immediately (>30 seconds) starts to spill over the neck and on to everything below. Does this mean there’s still trapped air in there?

It does when I'm doing it. But, it depends on how much coolant is in the radiator. There will be more after it has run with the cap on than filling from empty. If it does it from cold, get one of the overflow funnels and see how much is actually going up into the funnel.

 

[mrblaine]

Thank you. And when replacing the thermostat does the weep hole position at 12:00 or 6:00?

Straight up.

 

[Flivver250]

Damn it! Never knew about drilling the T-stat. You guys suck! Now I have an OCD urge to pull mine out and drill it. Thanks a lot. I just know you are gas lighting me.

 

[mrblaine]

Damn it! Never knew about drilling the T-stat. You guys suck! Now I have an OCD urge to pull mine out and drill it. Thanks a lot. I just know you are gas lighting me.

If it had no issues bleeding the air out when you did the work, then there is no need. Like I said, it is a solution to a problem. If you don't have the problem, you don't need the solution.

 

[Flivver250]

If it had no issues bleeding the air out when you did the work, then there is no need. Like I said, it is a solution to a problem. If you don't have the problem, you don't need the solution.

I was just jiving you.

 

[Goatman]

I just point the front end up a steep incline to raise the radiator in relation to the engine and hoses. Had a Nissan car that you had to pull a head bolt to bleed the air. Not a bolt on the head, an actual head bolt. A guy at the dealership (did not work there. In for his own issues.) Told me to try the hill trick. Has worked on everything from 1940's tractors up to 2010's minivan. Easy if you live on a hill like I do.

 

[jazngab]

I just point the front end up a steep incline to raise the radiator in relation to the engine and hoses. Had a Nissan car that you had to pull a head bolt to bleed the air. Not a bolt on the head, an actual head bolt. A guy at the dealership (did not work there. In for his own issues.) Told me to try the hill trick. Has worked on everything from 1940's tractors up to 2010's minivan. Easy if you live on a hill like I do.

So basically when I’m done reassembling the cooling system, just back it out of the garage, put the front end on a hill then fill up 10.5 qt of the coolant in the radiator and that will eliminate any air in the system? No other tricks needed? Also it should be ok driving 20 ft without coolant to a hill, right? As long as the engine doesn’t run long enough to get warm

 

[04 LJ]

Damn it! Never knew about drilling the T-stat. You guys suck! Now I have an OCD urge to pull mine out and drill it. Thanks a lot. I just know you are gas lighting me.

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