Radiator replacement

Flivver250

Flivver250

TJ Addict
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I just helped a buddy replace his TJ radiator. Tried out my new radiator fill/burp bucket out for the first time. Spill free and the easiest way to let the cooling system purge itself of air. There may be others like this unit that are better, but this worked fine. His cooling system was all new except for the radiator. New radiator dropped it 10°. No visible signs of malfunction, just all there was left that wasn't fresh. I knew we could get it cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Flivver250 said:
I just helped a buddy replace his TJ radiator. Tried out my new radiator fill/burp bucket out for the first time. Spill free and the easiest way to let the cooling system purge itself of air. There may be others like this unit that are better, but this worked fine. His cooling system was all new except for the radiator. New radiator dropped it 10°. No visible signs of malfunction, just all there was left that wasn't fresh. I knew we could get it cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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How did the adapter cap fit the filler neck? I have the one from Lisle and had to make a gasket to get it to seal tight enough not to leak.
 
Maybe I should try this. I recently overhauled the entire cooling system but didn’t burp it because I was told it was self purging/burping. Well I did bring it up to temp multiple times and once cool open the cap. That did result in some gurgling. I also squeezed/pumped the hoses like you would an oil priming bulb on an outboard. Not sure that did much. I am running at 210* which is exactly where it was before.
 
If the cooling system has a radiator cap on the top tank of the radiator. It needs to be burped. If the cooling system has a pressurized De-gas tank with a pressure cap on the top, it is truly "self purging". However, I would still ensure the thermostat opens and you get your level set before you call it a day on one of those...
 
04 LJ said:
Maybe I should try this. I recently overhauled the entire cooling system but didn’t burp it because I was told it was self purging/burping. Well I did bring it up to temp multiple times and once cool open the cap. That did result in some gurgling. I also squeezed/pumped the hoses like you would an oil priming bulb on an outboard. Not sure that did much. I am running at 210* which is exactly where it was before.
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I keep posting this, I won't do it again after this. The later Mopar thermostats and others of similar design have changed the bleeder hole to be nearly non functioning. We've noted the change in the self burping function many times and finally resorted to drilling a 1/8" diameter hole next to the jiggler which solved the problem and made them work as before. The later ones are not self burping in the least until you fix them.
 
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mrblaine said:
I keep posting this, I won't do it again after this. The later Mopar thermostats and others of similar design have changed the bleeder hole to be nearly non functioning. We've noted the change in the self burping function many times and finally resorted to drilling a 1/8" diameter hole next to the jiggler which solved the problem and made them work as before. The later ones are not self burping in the least until you fix them.
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Highly interesting, thanks Blaine. Does that include the Stant Superstat which doesn't have a bleed hole on its flange? I've never had a problem with it and never did a separate bleed operation. The Superstat's description says it was specifically designed to assist with purging air. http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/superstat-thermostat/
 
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Just buy the four cylinder Stant thermostat that has the correct jiggle valve so you don't have to mess with it. The Superstat is simply the wrong part. Why would you buy a new part and drill holes in it?
 
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pagrey said:
Just buy the four cylinder Stant thermostat that has the correct jiggle valve so you don't have to mess with it. The Superstat is simply the wrong part. Why would you buy a new part and drill holes in it?
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I disagree the Superstat is the "wrong part". Too many of us run them without problem, me included. I've been recommending them for many years and never a complaint. It's a very well designed heavier-duty thermostat that works well for me. http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/superstat-thermostat/
 
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I have seen the posts about drilling a small hole in the tstat but I can’t see having to drill a hole in something for it to work right. If they intended for it to have a hole I feel like it would have one. I also can’t see putting a part for the wrong engine (4 cyl) in my 4.0.

So since I didn’t drill a hole in my new Superstat and I didn’t use one for a 4 banger I guess I’m back to square one but I’m at 210* and not overheating so I must have done something right 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I disagree the Superstat is the "wrong part". Too many of us run them without problem, me included. I've been recommending them for many years and never a complaint. It's a very well designed heavier-duty thermostat that works well for me. http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/superstat-thermostat/
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Once they system is bleed obviously it'll work fine either way. I don't think heavy duty thermostat is a real thing but if it makes you happy run it.

Stant lists the thermostat for the 4.0 without the jiggle valve so people comparing the superstat to the base thermostat wont ask questions. It is that simple. There is no money to be made upselling to people with the four banger so they list the correct part number there. Just look for yourself at the catalog you linked to.

13009 13359 and many many others for the 4.0, there are 10 different thermostats listed
14209 for the 2.4

Why do you think they list all those options for the 4.0 and not the 14209 that is listed for the 2.4?

Blaine drills holes because he's in a hurry, whatever. Time is money.
 
pagrey said:
Once they system is bleed obviously it'll work fine either way. I don't think heavy duty thermostat is a real thing but if it makes you happy run it.

Stant lists the thermostat for the 4.0 without the jiggle valve so people comparing the superstat to the base thermostat wont ask questions. It is that simple. There is no money to be made upselling to people with the four banger so they list the correct part number there. Just look for yourself at the catalog you linked to.

13009 13359 and many many others for the 4.0, there are 10 different thermostats listed
14209 for the 2.4

Why do you think they list all those options for the 4.0 and not the 14209 that is listed for the 2.4?

Blaine drills holes because he's in a hurry, whatever. Time is money.
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So are you running 14209? If so, have you run others that were listed for the 4.0 that you can compare to?
 
Suvs, Trucks and Jeeps are usually easy to get a good fill. The upper hose and radiator cap is usually several inches about the thermostat. I saw no need for bleed or any special tricks to fill mine completely. It runs with in about 5 degrees of the stated temp. I have had trouble with cars before though.
 
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pagrey said:
Just buy the four cylinder Stant thermostat that has the correct jiggle valve so you don't have to mess with it. The Superstat is simply the wrong part. Why would you buy a new part and drill holes in it?
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Because I prefer Mopar when given the chance and I can drill a hole in the flange in about the same time as it took both of us to type these responses.
 
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04 LJ said:
So are you running 14209? If so, have you run others that were listed for the 4.0 that you can compare to?
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Take a look at Mopar 52028186AC. That is what the thermostat is supposed to look like.

The only bad thermostat I've ever run was a Crown. It was a dud and ran at 180. The gauge read low and I got check engine light for low operating temperature. Swapped a Motorad and it solved the problem. It makes no difference as long as it is a 195 it'll work fine. The jiggle valve only helps bleed air. The Superstat you installed will run perfect after you bleed the system. It isn't going to cause any problems, like Jerry said lots of people run them.

I would never buy a Stant thermostat. The only reason people are confused what thermostat to run is because they list all ten of those thermostats as replacements, they just list everything that fits in the hole. It is wrong and it screws up all the parts interchange catalogs too. Most thermostat questions on the forums are because they list all the wrong temps as replacements. In my opinion allot of this mess is their fault, but that is just my opinion. At the end of the day it is just a stupid rant, I am well aware of that.
 
04 LJ said:
I have seen the posts about drilling a small hole in the tstat but I can’t see having to drill a hole in something for it to work right. If they intended for it to have a hole I feel like it would have one. I also can’t see putting a part for the wrong engine (4 cyl) in my 4.0.

So since I didn’t drill a hole in my new Superstat and I didn’t use one for a 4 banger I guess I’m back to square one but I’m at 210* and not overheating so I must have done something right 🤷🏻‍♂️
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We started drilling the holes in thermostat flanges many years ago before they had holes and jigglers. Then they started coming with jigglers and what not to do what we were already doing and it worked so we quit drilling holes. Then they quit working to self bleed and I got tired of the system blowing coolant out the fill funnel so I started drilling again. Now they self bleed again. It mostly seems related to the later systems.
 
Brianj5600 said:
Suvs, Trucks and Jeeps are usually easy to get a good fill. The upper hose and radiator cap is usually several inches about the thermostat. I saw no need for bleed or any special tricks to fill mine completely. It runs with in about 5 degrees of the stated temp. I have had trouble with cars before though.
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After we are all done with the flush, engine flushed out, and get it filled, then we run it up to temp with the cap off the radiator to make sure there is no trapped air. We had about 2 years of the new thermostats not bleeding correctly. The air bubble would expand enough to push 2 quarts of coolant out of the radiator right before the thermostat opened. When it opened, the coolant level would drop drastically and it would be at least two quarts low. Fill it quickly, cold fluid would close the thermostat, the air bubble would expand again, thermostat would open, level would drop. Giant pain in my ass.

Drill 1/8" hole in flange, coolant rises very slightly in the funnel, thermostat opens, fluid circulates normally, watch it for a few minutes to make sure the air is out, shut it off, top it off very slightly, top off reservoir, done. No problems after that. I don't arbitrarily do things just for the hell of it.
 
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When I swapped out the thermostat and flushed the cooling system for the first time I had an overheating issue. I tried for hours to burp the system to get all the air out but couldn't. I followed mrblaine's advice of drilling a hole in the thermostat and it solved my problem. I've noticed no affect to the performance of the cooling system whatsoever. In the cold Canadian Winters it still warmed up quickly and to the correct temperature and stayed there. I will continue to drill a hole whenever I may have to replace the thermostat again.
 
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