Raising Rear Frame

[Mike_H]

Who's done it? I know @jjvw has. Who else? I have some pretty serious rot in the end of the frame. So, I gotta open it up anyway. If I'm going to do it, I thought maybe I'd raise to get rid of the body lift pucks in that area.

Couple questions I had are what to do with the tank skid? I have the savvy and I assume I would run the front in the 1" body lift position and the rear in the "regular" non body lift position.

What are the possible downsides of raising the frame in that section?

 

[jjvw]

1.25 body lift.

The front of the Savvy gas skid would be in the raised position. The rear is in the lowered position as if there wasn't a body lift.

 

[JeepingNet]

I looked into it on my LJ and it looks like most people go fuel cell when they raise the rear section. I'd say only really consider it if you also want to stretch your wheelbase. It raises the frame quite a bit.

 

[Alex01]

I looked into it on my LJ and it looks like most people go fuel cell when they raise the rear section. I'd say only really consider it if you also want to stretch your wheelbase. It raises the frame quite a bit.

@Midnight LJR has an lj with a rear tuck and @Chris has a tj. Blaine did both of them and retained the stock tank. They both have a savvy gas. It raises the frame 1.25" in the rear to eliminate the BL puck and improve departure angle. On an lj its helpful but on a tj it's more of a cosmetic mod.

 

[jjvw]

I looked into it on my LJ and it looks like most people go fuel cell when they raise the rear section. I'd say only really consider it if you also want to stretch your wheelbase. It raises the frame quite a bit.

Most don't have convertible gas tank skids like Savvy that make raising the the frame relatively easy.

 

[Chris]

Here’s mine that Blaine did:

 

[J R]

Doing this is #1 on my list of things to do over the summer. All your guys pics are very helpful. Thank you!

Is this added plate on the inside?

 

[Mike_H]

1.25 body lift.

The front of the Savvy gas skid would be in the raised position. The rear is in the lowered position as if there wasn't a body lift.
View attachment 231828

After I posted this, I found your post on the subject. I have the savvy skid, waiting to be installed. Pretty sure I'm going to do this. The real question is do I do it by measurement, b or wait until I set my new tub down with the new savvy body lift and bolt it down in position, then tack it.

@Chris yours is looking great!

 

[Mike_H]

One more this... @jjvw you left your cross member tie in plates on, correct? The way @mrblaine is doing Chris' it doesn't look like the frame tie ins will be used...

So... Frame tie ins or no?

 

[Chris]

Doing this is #1 on my list of things to do over the summer. All your guys pics are very helpful. Thank you!

View attachment 231881
Is this added plate on the inside?

Yes, it’s on the inside.

 

[mrblaine]

I looked into it on my LJ and it looks like most people go fuel cell when they raise the rear section. I'd say only really consider it if you also want to stretch your wheelbase. It raises the frame quite a bit.

What are you talking about?

 

[mrblaine]

Most don't have convertible gas tank skids like Savvy that make raising the the frame relatively easy.

And we can't space down other skids why?

 

[mrblaine]

Here’s mine that Blaine did:

View attachment 231875View attachment 231876View attachment 231877View attachment 231878

This may be more helpful.

 

[mrblaine]

One more this... @jjvw you left your cross member tie in plates on, correct? The way @mrblaine is doing Chris' it doesn't look like the frame tie ins will be used...

So... Frame tie ins or no?

Why does Chris need frame tie ins?

 

[mrblaine]

After I posted this, I found your post on the subject. I have the savvy skid, waiting to be installed. Pretty sure I'm going to do this. The real question is do I do it by measurement, b or wait until I set my new tub down with the new savvy body lift and bolt it down in position, then tack it.

@Chris yours is looking great!

Trust the math. 1.25" is 1.25" so use that to space up the two frame sections. I cut them off square to the rear face of the crossmember. Then I clamped a straight piece of flat bar that was 1.25" tall across the back of the frame cuts. Set the rear section we cut off on top of that and tacked it in place after we beveled all the weld joints.

 

[Mike_H]

Why does Chris need frame tie ins?

Extra reinforcement for pulling from the bumper/cross member. I have them, are they not necessary?

 

[mrblaine]

Extra reinforcement for pulling from the bumper/cross member. I have them, are they not necessary?

What exactly is he going to be pulling?

 

[Alex01]

Trust the math. 1.25" is 1.25" so use that to space up the two frame sections. I cut them off square to the rear face of the crossmember. Then I clamped a straight piece of flat bar that was 1.25" tall across the back of the frame cuts. Set the rear section we cut off on top of that and tacked it in place after we beveled all the weld joints.

Thanks for dropping that super helpful tip, we're lucky to have your knowledge.

Will you be using the AR bracket like they were installed previously or welding a tab to the top of the frame?

Beautiful work as always. I hope to do the same on my jeep soon.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks for dropping that super helpful tip, we're lucky to have your knowledge.

Will you be using the AR bracket like they were installed previously or welding a tab to the top of the frame?

Beautiful work as always. I hope to do the same on my jeep soon.

The AR mount is already back on in nearly the same spot.

 

[Mike_H]

What exactly is he going to be pulling?

I don't believe he is going to be pulling anything. I believe he might need a yank from the rear to get unstuck.

This may be an instance of differences in wheeling areas. I get into a lot of sticky mud, and having a good solid tow point on both ends of the vehicle is important.