Raising Rear Frame

[mrblaine]

I don't believe he is going to be pulling anything. I believe he might need a yank from the rear to get unstuck.

This may be an instance of differences in wheeling areas. I get into a lot of sticky mud, and having a good solid tow point on both ends of the vehicle is important.

I made a fish plate as seen above that laps over the weld joint to tie the crossmember section to the frame in case he does something dumb. The overlay bumper he has uses 4 bolts per side to tie into the crossmember on either side of the frame rail and 1 per each up into the original frame weld nut. I converted the two nuts on the inside of the frame rails to be on a nut plate to spread the load out and negate the use of a wrench down in that very hard to get to spot.

If something manages to rip that off, frame tie ins weren't going to save it.

 

[rasband]

I don't believe he is going to be pulling anything. I believe he might need a yank from the rear to get unstuck.

This may be an instance of differences in wheeling areas. I get into a lot of sticky mud, and having a good solid tow point on both ends of the vehicle is important.

Slightly off topic... Have you tried kinetic recovery rope? It’s much less harsh of a pull and consequentially I assume it’s also easier on everything involved. I don’t know if that’s important or not, but I would guess so.

 

[Mike_H]

Slightly off topic... Have you tried kinetic recovery rope? It’s much less harsh of a pull and consequentially I assume it’s also easier on everything involved. I don’t know if that’s important or not, but I would guess so.

I have not, yet. It's in the plans. A lot of times in Michigan, you need a bigger pull than just a jerk of a rock or stump. Two or three car lengths of pulling through sticky, heavy clay.

 

[rasband]

I have not, yet. It's in the plans. A lot of times in Michigan, you need a bigger pull than just a jerk of a rock or stump. Two or three car lengths of pulling through sticky, heavy clay.

I hope to read how it compares when you have the opportunity! I haven’t had a need to use mine yet.

 

[mrblaine]

I hope to read how it compares when you have the opportunity! I haven’t had a need to use mine yet.

The kinetic straps and ropes deliver the same amount of energy to the stuck vehicle, they just do it over a longer period of time which is what you need in a mud stuck. If you are knee deep in mud and try to yank your foot up in a hurry it won't move nearly as easily as slow and steady force.

Yes, I have played in mud and recovered folks that were buried to the frame rails.

 

[jjvw]

And we can't space down other skids why?

Laziness!

 

[rasband]

The kinetic straps and ropes deliver the same amount of energy to the stuck vehicle, they just do it over a longer period of time which is what you need in a mud stuck. If you are knee deep in mud and try to yank your foot up in a hurry it won't move nearly as easily as slow and steady force.

Yes, I have played in mud and recovered folks that were buried to the frame rails.

That lines up with what I’d expect, same energy but stored and delivered differently. Instead of the instantaneous “hit” it’s less abrupt on both ends.

 

[mrblaine]

That lines up with what I’d expect, same energy but stored and delivered differently. Instead of the instantaneous “hit” it’s less abrupt on both ends.

Works very well. I've used it with my Dodge Dually to unstick a propane delivery truck on the lot above us after a rain.

One of my all time favorites was a conversation with Mr. Bransford when we went down to rescue some kids in a Grand Cherokee. He and I were on top of the hill looking down into the bottom of the valley where they were buried. The road down to them was muddy, slick, and off camber. He turns to me and in all seriousness says- "my rig is my daily driver, how about you give it shot first?"

Jerry, just because my rig isn't my daily driver doesn't mean I like it any less than you do yours.

 

[JeepingNet]

Most don't have convertible gas tank skids like Savvy that make raising the the frame relatively easy.

Oh sorry I thought the question was about one of those Back half-frame kits that makes the frame much higher in the rear.

 

[HornedToad]

I’ve done it. Mine’s an lj and I basically copied what jjvw did. It was a good opportunity to sandblast all the rust off that section of frame and coat it with epoxy primer. Lj’s have more to gain from this as far as departure is concerned. It also looks great (I hated the butt crack look).

 

[HornedToad]

As others have mentioned the savvy gts makes the raised rear frame possible.

 

[someguysjeep]

This may be more helpful. View attachment 231908

bastard (sorry) ...............that's a beautiful cope and a nice job. i kept the last 10" of my frame and will be borrowing that if it ever gets used (on the next jeep).

 

[UND_Sioux]

View attachment 231983

So let me see if I have this correct. Once you cut off the lower part of the frame (bottom left side of this picture), you move it to the top and weld it on. I think I get that. But what do you use on the bottom of the frame rail where you cut off the piece to fill it it? Small piece of sheet metal?

 

[Mike_H]

So let me see if I have this correct. Once you cut off the lower part of the frame (bottom left side of this picture), you move it to the top and weld it on. I think I get that. But what do you use on the bottom of the frame rail where you cut off the piece to fill it it? Small piece of sheet metal?

Cut it off flat on the bottom. Make a filler piece on the top.

I'll show ya with Blaine's pictures, cuz his looks WAY better than mine.

Then he fishplated the backside.

 

[someguysjeep]

get yourself a chunk of tube and a small 3/16" plate.

 

[someguysjeep]

i already overstepped my place here.........and your cuts a tad heavy compared.

@mrblaine, 3/16" is sufficient on the bottom?
i see you don't choose to use a tie strap inside, do you use a thicker bottom plate to compensate or no need?

 

[mrblaine]

i already overstepped my place here.........and your cuts a tad heavy compared.

@mrblaine, 3/16" is sufficient on the bottom?
i see you don't choose to use a tie strap inside, do you use a thicker bottom plate to compensate or no need?

I used 3/16 here.

I did do a fish plate on the inside.

 

[HornedToad]

So let me see if I have this correct. Once you cut off the lower part of the frame (bottom left side of this picture), you move it to the top and weld it on. I think I get that. But what do you use on the bottom of the frame rail where you cut off the piece to fill it it? Small piece of sheet metal?

I don’t have a picture of mine but I know there is one on @jjvw ’s build thread (I did it exactly the same as his). He didn’t cut the bottom portion off but instead cut a wedge out near the bottom and then folded the remaining piece up until it was flush with the raised portion. Here are some pictures I stole.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/page-94

 

[mrblaine]

I don’t have a picture of mine but I know there is one on @jjvw ’s build thread (I did it exactly the same as his). He didn’t cut the bottom portion off but instead cut a wedge out near the bottom and then folded the remaining piece up until it was flush with the raised portion. Here are some pictures I stole.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/daily-driver-go-where-i-want-to-build.9410/page-94
View attachment 292927

View attachment 292928

I can't deal with the aesthetics of that method. My vertical cut forward limit is dictated by the amount of straight section there is before the frame starts to bend upward.

 

[mrblaine]

I can't deal with the humpty non straight transition on the lower. That doesn't make his method incorrect, I just can't do it that way.