Ramsey 9000 winch just clicks

[weldedcambolt]

was going to use my ramsey 9000 winch to roll back my axle to get the upper arms lined up, an its been a while since i used it, an went to use it, an just started clicking....been covered all outside connections look rustcorroded free, anybody have this problem an tear it apart an clean it up?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Likely either a corroded/loose/dirty connection at the battery or a bad solenoid inside the winch. And a battery connection can look fine but not be. The only way to eliminate that possibility is to physically remove both battery connections and use a wire battery brush on the battery posts and inside of the connections until they're bright and shiny clean.

 

[weldedcambolt]

Likely either a corroded/loose/dirty connection at the battery or a bad solenoid inside the winch. And a battery connection can look fine but not be. The only way to eliminate that possibility is to physically remove both battery connections and use a wire battery brush on the battery posts and inside of the connections until they're bright and shiny clean.

Okay, I will clean them all up an see what happens. Now, on the clutch in or out, knob, tis a bit hard to slide up an down, can you spray anything in there to get it to move up an down, an also, when i move that nob, the whole right side turns a bit like it locks into place is that normal?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Okay, I will clean them all up an see what happens. Now, on the clutch in or out, knob, tis a bit hard to slide up an down, can you spray anything in there to get it to move up an down, an also, when i move that nob, the whole right side turns a bit like it locks into place is that normal?

They often get like that no matter what brand it is. I don't know Ramsey's winches all that well, probably spray some white lithium grease in the mechanism once you get things apart enough to get past the enclosure. Google might find what you're looking for since you likely know its model # and I don't.

 

[weldedcambolt]

They often get like that no matter what brand it is. I don't know Ramsey's winches all that well, probably spray some white lithium grease in the mechanism once you get things apart enough to get past the enclosure. Google might find what you're looking for since you likely know its model # and I don't.

okay, thanks

 

[weldedcambolt]

this guy needs to get the nobel peace prize for his instruction on winch maintenance. good dude.

 

[weldedcambolt]

hey, Jerry, if your bored an if your knowledgeable on it, after looking at the comments below part two of this winch video, the comment made by vx adventures about "clocking the spring the wrong way", is this guy right about the guy in the video, an "clocking the spring the wrong way?" an what will it harm?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Sorry I dunno, I've never been that deep in a winch. Neither of my Warns ever had any mechanical issues. The most I've ever had to do was replace a solenoid.

 

[Drizit]

I completely ripped apart my M10000 when I had motor issues, turned out to be stuck brushes. (the motor was so sold the brush holders were steel not brass and rusted.) I decided to clean regrease everything as the stuff in the gear box was about 30+ years old. The one part I don't agree with in those videos is the limited use of grease and spraying wd40 into the gear box.

Personally I greased the free spool ring gear on both sides and it works fine. However, I used Shell MS33 (the synthetic version of the grease warn recommends) it's designed specifically for sliding parts and to repell water. (it's also really hard to clean your hands after as it repells the water in hand cleaner ) I also packed the gears full, particularly the open area about the largest gear, again to help keep water out of there.

As to using wd40 to lube the free spool gear that's a terrible idea. Wd40 is a degreaser all the stuff that goes out the sides of that ring gear will contaminate and brake down the grease. Particularly after years of doing it every month. It's also not a particularly good lubricant, if you want to not grease it because it will add resistance to your free spool (not much) then at least use a light oil or something like it. Wd40 was one of the 2 cleaners I used to degrease mine, not cool.

As to the ring, my M10000 didn't have that part I don't think so I couldn't say.

Chances are though like on his, if your solinoids test good and you connections are solid, it'll be in the brush area of the motor. Look for stuck brushes or green death.


Edit: Just went back and realized I was thinking of a different part of the video. That guy is absolutely correct, he blew the reinstall of the brake. It's trying to work backwards on the cam now and while it may function as he says, it's probably not working as well as it should. I suspect if you hang the truck on it hard it will run away. It's also probably dragging a bit when winching in. The cams should ride up the shallow side of the ramps.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[weldedcambolt]

Okay, I Just mounted that thing back on, with putting the new sway bar bushings on, it always worked fine. I should of tested it before i put it back on, but who would have thought. Check list - anytime you pull your winch off to put on new sway bar bushings, check the winch before you do. that thing is heavy. After looking at that video, it might be a good idea to put some like adhesive rubber tape around the seams, so water cant get down into it. I was thinking that that dude was talkin about maybe, a spring inside, that those tabs had to be offset for some kind of tension, if not the break wouldnt work on it? I will work on the winch this weekend. Gonna throw the lower arm bushings in tommorow. it rides good an tight with the new upper bushings an sway bar links an bushings.

 

[weldedcambolt]

update, got the two wire mounts cleaned on the motor side an cleaned all the battery terminals. still got the clicks, but the clicks are notibly louder, so do got more juice flowing, to them, by cleaning. the plugin wire for the hand held, when i move it up an down, or wiggle it, causes the one side to stop working of the push button an get no click. something may be loose in there, but when not wigglin it, it clicks on forward an reverse. will take off the top an dig further. the cable will release out, an i can get it back in, with turning the spool a bit at a time.

 

[Drizit]

Pull the cover off the solinoid box, you can use a bit of scrap wire to jump the contacts of the solinoids. That eliminates anything to do with your controller or the plug as the cause. I still suspect brush motors though.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[weldedcambolt]

ok, going to start on that. now i did throw a new used alternator on it today, the other one was whining a bit. so not sure if that gave it a bit more umpph to click lounder or not. thanks