RCV axles vs u-joint axles?

No not true, Berry said they are the same.

I would agree that the manufacturing processes and the quality may be exactly the same, but the single defining feature and the only reason to get the US made product is for the larger U-joints.

For reference...all of the ones listed under American made show 1350 joints (highlighted in next screen grab)

revolution_usa_made_front_axle_shafts

1634918273721.png



discovery_series_front_axle_shafts

1634917835714.png



As for the rear, the only thing they show under Discovery series is the 1541 30 spline for the Super 35.

discovery_series_rear_axle_shafts

All of the Dana 44 shafts have part numbers starting with RAK which is the US made series.

revolution_usa_made_rear_axle_shafts

I have, but have not installed, Discovery in front and US made in the rear. The savings bought a Lock Right and part of a SwayLoc.
 
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I would agree that the manufacturing processes and the quality may be exactly the same, but the single defining feature and the only reason to get the US made product is for the larger U-joints.

For reference...all of the ones listed under American made show 1350 joints (highlighted in next screen grab)

revolution_usa_made_front_axle_shafts

View attachment 285490


discovery_series_front_axle_shafts

View attachment 285488


As for the rear, the only thing they show under Discovery series is the 1541 30 spline for the Super 35.

discovery_series_rear_axle_shafts

All of the Dana 44 shafts have part numbers starting with RAK which is the US made series.

revolution_usa_made_rear_axle_shafts

I have, but have not installed, Discovery in front and US made in the rear. The savings bought a Lock Right and part of a SwayLoc.
I received my RGA rear axles a week ago. Found the front Dicovery today. Ordered them up, I've had enough self-induced paralysis-by-analysis.

I don't get radical in the LJ (on 35s and 5.13 soon) and figure if they're good enough for the folks with way more experience than I, they're good enough for me. As much as I like to buy USA, the nearly $400 savings can buy me some American stuff, like gas, diesel, and beef..
 
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Since I'm pressing my luck with 37's on a Currie 44 in the front, I went with the RCV. They're worth it if you tend to break things and/or running larger tires than your axle can handle.
 
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RCVs don't protect the axle if you're still running the same size ball joints the factory axles came with. The axle shafts aren't the problem with running larger than 35" tires on Dana 30/Dana 44 axle shafts. If stronger axle shafts were enough I'd be running 37's.
 
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RCVs don't protect the axle if you're still running the same size ball joints the factory axles came with. The axle shafts aren't the problem with running larger than 35" tires on Dana 30/Dana 44 axle shafts. If stronger axle shafts were enough I'd be running 37's.
Running Rare Parts dual load ball joints with C gussets and a truss. No issues with the C's or joints yet but I have ripped lower control arm brackets off and broke rear shafts.
 
Ball Joint Delete.... Just saying...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/407656929585225/
https://americanironoffroad.com/
Yep I know some say it's hg wash or other terms but I guess I'm a believer.... Does it solve all the Dana 30/44 TJ/YJ/XJ axle issues? NOPE but it does seem to be working for those who have tried them.
When he gets them designed for old school Dana 30/44 axles I'll buy a set too.
 
Ball Joint Delete.... Just saying...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/407656929585225/
https://americanironoffroad.com/
Yep I know some say it's hg wash or other terms but I guess I'm a believer.... Does it solve all the Dana 30/44 TJ/YJ/XJ axle issues? NOPE but it does seem to be working for those who have tried them.
When he gets them designed for old school Dana 30/44 axles I'll buy a set too.
I'm doing a Dana 44 delete instead. Dana 60/14B building starts this winter with a 3 link / 4 link setup and coil overs or ORI haven't decided yet.
 
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I'm doing a Dana 44 delete instead. Dana 60/14B building starts this winter with a 3 link / 4 link setup and coil overs or ORI haven't decided yet.

If you want/need a Dana 60/14B it's a good way to go but I'm still not sure I need them. And even if I did it's a lot more than I want to spend cause I'd have to narrow both axles. I won't/don't want o run anything wider than about a 65" wide axle.
 
If you want/need a Dana 60/14B it's a good way to go but I'm still not sure I need them. And even if I did it's a lot more than I want to spend cause I'd have to narrow both axles. I won't/don't want o run anything wider than about a 65" wide axle.
I will be running full width with 42" BFG stickies. Will be a long project, building the axles up first and collecting parts before we start tearing the Jeep apart. Will probably run it as is for 2022 and start the tear down next winter. With part availability I don't want to have the Jeep apart for a year and miss an entire season.

I have a Super Duty Dana 60 05+ and a 2008 GM 14B with disk to start. Adding gears, lockers, shaft, truss will be phase 1. Sort of mirroring a buddies build I really like.
 
I will be running full width with 42" BFG stickies. Will be a long project, building the axles up first and collecting parts before we start tearing the Jeep apart. Will probably run it as is for 2022 and start the tear down next winter. With part availability I don't want to have the Jeep apart for a year and miss an entire season.

I have a Super Duty Dana 60 05+ and a 2008 GM 14B with disk to start. Adding gears, lockers, shaft, truss will be phase 1. Sort of mirroring a buddies build I really like.
Why ever on God's green earth would you truss an axle that has a higher load rating than anything you would ever be able to subject it to? Let me guess, the master metal pukers at Artec make something pretty, right?
 
Why ever on God's green earth would you truss an axle that has a higher load rating than anything you would ever be able to subject it to? Let me guess, the master metal pukers at Artec make something pretty, right?
Small truss for upper link brackets on the 14B, Dana 60 shouldn't need one if I 3 link it. Was looking at GenRight link kits with JJ's. Don't want to add weight I don't need while already doubling the unsprung weight with axles and wheel / tire. Plan to stretch too, using a GR tank. Shooting for 115" or so. Plan to do a flat t-case skid with a proper crossmember to get the belly up. I don't want it super tall either. Probably a 14" ORI both ends.

Thinking of ORI for packaging advantages. Further keeping the added weight down.
 
If you play in the wet I would avoid RCVs. That bell seal is just not good enough to keep water out.
 
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If you play in the wet I would avoid RCVs. That bell seal is just not good enough to keep water out.

Interesting. This is the first time I've heard someone comment on this. Guess I'll find out.
 
I will be running full width with 42" BFG stickies. Will be a long project, building the axles up first and collecting parts before we start tearing the Jeep apart. Will probably run it as is for 2022 and start the tear down next winter. With part availability I don't want to have the Jeep apart for a year and miss an entire season.

I have a Super Duty Dana 60 05+ and a 2008 GM 14B with disk to start. Adding gears, lockers, shaft, truss will be phase 1. Sort of mirroring a buddies build I really like.
Given any thought to shaving the 14 bolt?
 
Given any thought to shaving the 14 bolt?
ya, when can i send it down. and i need it back by Jan. :D

looked into this some and with the right wire and gas i can mig it and not have to worry about all the preheating and slow cooling.
 
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I will be running full width with 42" BFG stickies. Will be a long project, building the axles up first and collecting parts before we start tearing the Jeep apart. Will probably run it as is for 2022 and start the tear down next winter. With part availability I don't want to have the Jeep apart for a year and miss an entire season.

I have a Super Duty Dana 60 05+ and a 2008 GM 14B with disk to start. Adding gears, lockers, shaft, truss will be phase 1. Sort of mirroring a buddies build I really like.
have you looked at the pumpkin offset of the 60 yet i think its about 2" more driver side and could pose issues with up travel. i considered this axle too but would want the driver side tube longer and the passenger side shorter. and the 05 is like 3 inches wider than the 14B you can get it all even when the pigs shifted.

and while it's mentioned the old 60 (2004 down) are reputed to be 69.3" while the 05 are 72" and it's the older axle with the 10.5" offset the newer 05^ axle may have more or less, i cant find definite info on it's offset.

if you have 1 can you give it, the pinion center offset from axle center, and what's the top of the diff from center axle tube measure, plz.
 
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