ReadyBrake
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BendLarry
TJ Addict
Rub it in! My coach would be nearly perfect if it had the Cummins Diesel engine I used to have in a Dodge Ram 1ton
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OP
Yo, CodaMan Is Tow/Haul Mode and transmission/engine braking Is that a chip upgrade option? I don't know that I have anything after market like that on my truck. This was the first time I used it for towing. It seemed alright, but I don't know everything there is to know about it.
Those were part of my tow package, but when I had my F-150 gasser I had a custom tune built for towing, it was a simple upload to the computer and it worked awesome. It was nothing like the diesel rig, but the new tune changed all the shift points and the torque converter map for better towing torque and braking.
OP
There are several companies that makes custom tunes for that vehicle. They generally make either economy, power or tow tunes. I would look into one if you want a better tow rig.
So I decided since I am stuck with it, I'd experiment a bit. I am going to run a 10" hitch riser to level everything up, run a fatter cable to eliminate any stretch, and a turnbuckle to make adjustments easier. Will it work, hell if I know. I figure for 20 bucks may as well give it a shot. I wanted a hitch riser either way to lift my hitch hauler up and out of the rocks so no loss there if it doesn't work out. The other option is something like the SMI but the is 950 bucks I don't have to spend. I tried to talk the wife into a new truck. She gave me the, "F no," look 
So I decided since I am stuck with it, I'd experiment a bit. I am going to run a 10" hitch riser to level everything up, run a fatter cable to eliminate any stretch, and a turnbuckle to make adjustments easier. Will it work, hell if I know. I figure for 20 bucks may as well give it a shot. I wanted a hitch riser either way to lift my hitch hauler up and out of the rocks so no loss there if it doesn't work out. The other option is something like the SMI but the is 950 bucks I don't have to spend. I tried to talk the wife into a new truck. She gave me the, "F no," look
View attachment 51572
Can't talk her into a nice diesel truck huh? LOL
BendLarry
TJ Addict
I think you guys are overcomplicating things. When i installed mine, all i did was get my tow bar as close to level as i could and install with the included parts per the instructions and it worked as advertised. I did add a stainless steel turnbuckle thinking i might want to find tune the tension.
I have a low to the ground class C motor home and a Jeep with a 5 inch lift and 33 inch tires which meant I needed a 10 inch receiver lift. I didn’t modify anything else. The parts that came with the assembly worked just fine.
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I have a low to the ground class C motor home and a Jeep with a 5 inch lift and 33 inch tires which meant I needed a 10 inch receiver lift. I didn’t modify anything else. The parts that came with the assembly worked just fine.
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A new diesel will cost me 100K. 60 for the truck and 40 for "her new kitchen." :meparto:
So what's the problem? You're getting the better end of the deal LOL
Probably right. Just hoping for some good luck. Either way I had to do something because I was too far from the 2" from level that is recommended. More like 4" by the time the truck is loaded down with gear. Riser here tomorrow so fingers are crossed.
Well, I am only about 90K short. She is so hard to deal with :meparto:
OP
Rob 5589
That's the ticket. I'm going to remove the slop from each of the connections by drilling a tapping a bolt.. Also, my mechanic suggested adding a second nut and washer to each side of the tow bar arm attachment to act as a jam.
I am curious if the brake will engage when you turn into a driveway. Let's say the drive is level, but won't that single point riser cause the overall distance between the brake lever on the Ready Brake and the pull point on the toad to be longer? I don't know a better way to ask the question, but if you have the indicator light installed, that should answer the question.
That's the ticket. I'm going to remove the slop from each of the connections by drilling a tapping a bolt.. Also, my mechanic suggested adding a second nut and washer to each side of the tow bar arm attachment to act as a jam.
I am curious if the brake will engage when you turn into a driveway. Let's say the drive is level, but won't that single point riser cause the overall distance between the brake lever on the Ready Brake and the pull point on the toad to be longer? I don't know a better way to ask the question, but if you have the indicator light installed, that should answer the question.
I am also adding some hitch "tighteners" to try and rid of all slop I can. My drive is from CA to ID so no driveways to negotiate. I turned it 45 degrees L & R and it actually loosens up. RB recommends 2" of play so unless the driveway or whatever is very steep, I should be ok. Will find out tomorrow.
BendLarry
TJ Addict
The two tips I would repeat are:
Drill and tap a hole for a bolt to snug up any play in any hitch connection.
Second, I didn’t connect the wire from the Readybrake micro switch, instead ran a wire from the Jeep brake light switch to my coach dash led. I think it’s much more important to know that the Jeep brake pedal moves than when the Readybrake lever moves. You could have to much play in the cable and the Readybrake lever indicator would tell you your brake activated when it did not actually pull the brake pedal in. I also want to be sure that the Jeep brake pedal disengages and doesn’t heat up the brakes.
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Drill and tap a hole for a bolt to snug up any play in any hitch connection.
Second, I didn’t connect the wire from the Readybrake micro switch, instead ran a wire from the Jeep brake light switch to my coach dash led. I think it’s much more important to know that the Jeep brake pedal moves than when the Readybrake lever moves. You could have to much play in the cable and the Readybrake lever indicator would tell you your brake activated when it did not actually pull the brake pedal in. I also want to be sure that the Jeep brake pedal disengages and doesn’t heat up the brakes.
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Alright, so I have success! I could stop noticeably shorter and can see the front of the TJ dip. But just to make sure I had the spousal unit follow and every time the TJ brake lights came on. I think that everything has to be in line and attempt to eliminate as much slop as possible. I used hitch tighteners but will need to do the drill and tap at the RB connection due to limited space. Here is the set up that I used, everything is level. I have a set of load leveler bags on the way so when the truck is loaded it won't sink too far.
So here's the final set up. No more slop at any joint. Last year we hit about 5 miles of gravel road and the "shrapnel" trashed our other buddies brand new trailer; paint blasted, side lights blown apart. So to avoid that for the TJ, I built the flap set up. About 75 bucks vs nearly 300 for a pre-built set. Also installed a set of Air Lift bags so "Big Blue" (as my boy calls it) doesn't have a saggy rear end
