Rear drum brake replacement

jazngab

Done but not quite finished
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Aug 23, 2018
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So my parking brake doesn’t hold on inclines anymore. I pop the drums and brake pads are long gone. I ordered new shoes, springs and cylinders as well as new rotors. Now my question: is this I job I want to do myself? Ive read all the threads related to this topic and it seems like many have had hiccups during some part of the install. Also I’ve read the “things I’ve rather do than change rear drum brakes”. Is this a job I should outsource? Or tackle myself? Will I regret taking it all apart then struggle for hours upon hours trying to put it back together then not have it function properly?
 
Do yourself a favor and take a couple pictures of the rear brakes before you take them apart.... but there is nothing there that is oveely too hard to handle


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It's not too bad. May need a spring tool, but I've done car springs with a screwdriver. Went out and bought the tool when I had to do a truck. I also buy both hardware kits every time, they're cheap.

There are a lot of youtube videos to help you keep track of the proper assembly order.
 
There is one important step, about which side of the spring that the adjuster ratchet pawl is on. Take pics!
 
Depends on if you have to take the axles out of if there is enough room to get to everything. I did these on an F-150 with no issues but on my 2012 RAM and my wifes 2010 RAM we outsourced it.
 
I would suggest doing it yourself. I have done them a couple of times and I will admit that the first time was a major PITA. One tip I learned from that first time on the first side is putting the shoes on first made everything easier. Start with those round springs to hold on the shoes and the rest is easier. With that, you will need to hook the parking brake bracket first, then the shoes. Pictures are key as well.


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My understanding is you don’t have to pull the axles to do them, right?
 
You might get frustrated but in the end it’s worth it. Having the right tools makes the job way easier. You might want to watch a few videos of replacing drum brakes to get an idea. If I don’t have drum brake tools with me I use wire cutters.
 
You might get frustrated but in the end it’s worth it. Having the right tools makes the job way easier. You might want to watch a few videos of replacing drum brakes to get an idea. If I don’t have drum brake tools with me I use wire cutters.
Yea I’ve been watching. Videos and I ordered the spring puller and spring compressor tools. Also bought a new vise grip just in case. Trying to make it as painless as possible
 
We were able to install new hardware in my drums with common hand tools. I'd pull the shaft, the new springs are tough and having the extra room is handy.
 
I believe Jerry posted this originally, it’s a photo of everything properly assembled. I kept it for reference:
d935be1aec2ae22ea839b24c70cbf706.jpg


Then when it came time to do mine I realized since I have a Ford 8.8 rear axle that the picture wouldn’t be of much help. I asked the mechanic to take a photo of the 8.8 for reference. Let me know if something doesn’t look right and I’ll take it up with him!
Ford 8.8 rear drum brakes:
4b14e37196310d4672c7e2a0f362e2c5.jpg
 
The area that gave me the most trouble is the piece that the arrow is pointed at. There is a hole in the shoe that that pivot clip goes into. There isn't much on the backside of that clip that will actually drop in that hole to hold it, then you have to insert that spring through
drum.jpg
that same hole. All the while that cable needs to set perfectly in the groove of the pivot clip. It helps if you have a second set of hands holding that together. I found that my catch wasn't lined up to the adjustment wheel when I finished. The problem that fixed it was getting that pivot piece seated flat.

The second side went much faster.

I'm am sure its not called a pivot clip, but that's what I called it.... among other things that day.
 
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We were able to install new hardware in my drums with common hand tools. I'd pull the shaft, the new springs are tough and having the extra room is handy.
Will pulling the axles disturb any oil seals? That’s what I’m afraid of.
 
Did you get it done? Did you break a finger trying to get a spring on?
Yea I got it done. Didn’t get to bleed them yet. I think/hope everything is back together correctly. Thankful for the info on this forum on doing them or it would have taken me days. Had same issues others were having with the cable. It was a pain getting that cable hooked up and the bracket to stay in the hole without popping out. A second set of hands would have made it go smoother. Wasn’t that bad. It’s just a pain assembling it without everything continually falling apart. I actually dropped one of the new shoes in my bucket of dirty brake cleaner fluid smh. Lots of cursing. Fingertips a little sore. Spring puller was helpful. Spring compressor not so much. My driver side was pretty junky and had what I think to be gear oil. So I’m hoping there’s no seal leak. Hoping it’s just some brake fluid from old cylinder. I’ll keep an eye on it. Thanks all for tips and hints. Hopefully it’ll all work fine once I test it out.
 
I haven't done mine yet, but the old chevy trucks had a lever with a second little piece and a killer spring. Seems like the cable might be easier but i know what you mean about everything wanting to fall off before that last puzzle piece is in place.
 
The area that gave me the most trouble is the piece that the arrow is pointed at. There is a hole in the shoe that that pivot clip goes into. There isn't much on the backside of that clip that will actually drop in that hole to hold it, then you have to insert that spring throughView attachment 87810 that same hole. All the while that cable needs to set perfectly in the groove of the pivot clip. It helps if you have a second set of hands holding that together. I found that my catch wasn't lined up to the adjustment wheel when I finished. The problem that fixed it was getting that pivot piece seated flat.

The second side went much faster.

I'm am sure its not called a pivot clip, but that's what I called it.... among other things that day.
Mine kept popping out. I welded them in place. Will just get new ones when I replace shoes and drums before winter. Poorly made aftermarket pieces installed by the PO. Wish I had the OEM parts.
 
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Key points for future reference that others have also noted:

1. I reused the adjuster bracket piece instead of the new one in the kit to avoid scratching a groove in the new drum rotor.

2. Make sure the cable guide bracket is fully seated in the hole on the tension won’t be enough to pull the adjuster bracket to the star wheel.