Getting ready to tackle this job. From my old chevy days - we would offset the 2 piece rear main seal slightly so that the mating edges of the seal were in the groove ... slightly offset from the parting line that is the main cap to block surface. I've seen others report of doing this for the 4.0L engine too ... but surprisingly, nobody in this thread. Why not? This will only work for the RMS that does not have the legs on it.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/any-truth-rear-main-seal-205348/
Here's an example from a 455 ...
View attachment 147751
Does the other half of the seal get offset?

what is the purpose of offsetting this half of the seal? Does it get pushed back into place when you install the bearing cap?

I’m going to be tackling this job soon and my only experience is with 1 piece seals so I’m looking for all the advice I can get so this goes smoothly. Thanks.
 
Yup this is the one I followed both times and have still leaked both times. Must be something different as I have the newer type seal in a 2001. I’m going to try and follow someone who said to rotate the seal so it’s offset and try that way. Your write up is good just for some reason didn’t work for me 🤷🏻‍♂️
thanks

Same luck here. I changed mine and still leaks.
I kept it that way for 5 years now.

I am so sorry this didn't work out for you. All I was trying to do is help the community, not mis-lead them so that they would another leak. Also the write up is based on the FSM but with pictures.

I feel that the design is inherently flawed and the offsetting the seal is literally to "offset" the design flaw.

One thing that I do for my repairs is that whenever I apply any RTVs or any adhesives I make sure the mating surface is free of oil or any debris to a point paint will stick to it and that won't come off.

HTH.
 
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Does the other half of the seal get offset?

what is the purpose of offsetting this half of the seal? Does it get pushed back into place when you install the bearing cap?

I’m going to be tackling this job soon and my only experience is with 1 piece seals so I’m looking for all the advice I can get so this goes smoothly. Thanks.

The purpose of the offsetting the seal is to relocate the joints where the mating surfaces of the seal is away from the mating surfaces of the bearing cap.

Some movement will occur between bearing cap and the block. By keeping the seal joint away from the area, you have better chance of keeping the oil on the right side.
 
The purpose of the offsetting the seal is to relocate the joints where the mating surfaces of the seal is away from the mating surfaces of the bearing cap.

Some movement will occur between bearing cap and the block. By keeping the seal joint away from the area, you have better chance of keeping the oil on the right side.
This is a good explanation and makes a lot of sense. Thank you. But does the upper half of the seal also get installed with a matching offset?
 
I am so sorry this didn't work out for you. All I was trying to do is help the community, not mis-lead them so that they would another leak. Also the write up is based on the FSM but with pictures.

I feel that the design is inherently flawed and the offsetting the seal is literally to "offset" the design flaw.

One thing that I do for my repairs is that whenever I apply any RTVs or any adhesives I make sure the mating surface is free of oil or any debris to a point paint will stick to it and that won't come off.

HTH.
This write up was done really well but it is just a crappy design . I’d rather pull trans and have a one piece seal. Lol
 
Tackling replacing the RMS right now but how do you remove these bolts closest to the tranny?? The bolt heads are partially covered up?
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I am not 100% familiar with this exact task- but I would bend or trim that tab to get access to them, than if need be bend back into place. I cants see what trimming them would hurt myself
 
I'm removing the oil pan to get replace the rear main seal. This is where the tranny connects and where the RMS is so I'm hesitant about damaging this part to get to the bolt heads.
 
Tackling replacing the RMS right now but how do you remove these bolts closest to the tranny?? The bolt heads are partially covered up? View attachment 154199View attachment 154200
That rubber piece is a bit swollen from all the leaked oil that has saturated it. It’s not actually sealing anything. I just did mine a couple weeks ago - just use an extension and a socket and apply some pressure and the socket will go around the bolt head. You won’t damage anything.
 
That rubber piece is a bit swollen from all the leaked oil that has saturated it. It’s not actually sealing anything. I just did mine a couple weeks ago - just use an extension and a socket and apply some pressure and the socket will go around the bolt head. You won’t damage anything.

Copy that. I'm not sure it is rubber 🤔 But I'll take another crack at it tomorrow and put some more pressure on it. BTW this is on a 2006 TJ, not sure if that makes a difference.
 
Copy that. I'm not sure it is rubber 🤔 But I'll take another crack at it tomorrow and put some more pressure on it. BTW this is on a 2006 TJ, not sure if that makes a difference.
You’ll be ok. It’s the same design as my 04, as my friend just did his 06 this past week, coincidentally.
 
Great write up! I'm in the middle of replacing a manifold/exhaust gasket anyway and figured while I have everything out I might as well get this done too. Also got a new valve cover gasket. Contemplating on the oil pump while I'm in there. I have a lift in my shop which has been an incredible help with everything. My body and bones got tired of the cold concrete. Been there done that. One thing I told my wife when we decided to build a new house....I need a shop. Very fortunate to turn it into what I've always dreamed (y)

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