Rear upper and lower control arms

[Szydd]

So my rust bucket started to make a new noise the other day.. Looks like the rear upper passenger side control arm has broke. I order all 4 arms for the rear with new hardware and will begin the replacements probably tomorrow night. I have read that I should replace one at a time, return to ground and then torque.
But I still have a few questions about the job.

1. Should I be worried about how much I have driven with a broken CA?
2. I do not have a lift, do I need to be concerned with any kinds of measurements? The arms can only be one length, I assume.
3. When replacing one at a time, drop the vehicle after each arm and torque down, or replace all leave the bolts free and then torque all at once when it is on the ground again?
4. Since I have all new hardware can I just cut out the old arms, clean the brackets and then install all the new?
5. I am also replacing the rear shocks while I am back there. I have already replaced the gas tank skid so dropping the tank will be easy.. should I drop the tank again to make access that much easier.. or is that really not required?

Just ordered the rear sway links and bar too, figure.. while I'm there

Thanks in advance for the knowledge.

 

[Obi-Wan]

Did it break from abuse or from rust?

 

[Szydd]

Did it break from abuse or from rust?

I would say both, but more from rust

 

[Obi-Wan]

How are the front and rear upper control arm mounts on the frame? Or for that matter, how is the frame?
A control arm rusting through leads me to believe there may be bigger rust issues that need to be dealt with first. Any photos you can share?

 

[wigsajumper]

be prepared for a fight with the rear shocks. The top of the shock is kept in place with two bolts that screw into two factory welded nuts. They can be pain to get off due to rust in our lovely New England.

With the control arm be ready to have to cut the bolt. I was able to get the nut off the bolt but the bolt was rust welded to the metal sleeve in the bushing.

 

[Szydd]

How are the front and rear upper control arm mounts on the frame? Or for that matter, how is the frame?
A control arm rusting through leads me to believe there may be bigger rust issues that need to be dealt with first. Any photos you can share?

I'll get some pics after work. I definitely have rust issues, eventually the frame will need repair replacement but for now there are not holes. The mounts are well enough.

 

[Szydd]

be prepared for a fight with the rear shocks. The top of the shock is kept in place with two bolts that screw into two factory welded nuts. They can be pain to get off due to rust in our lovely New England.

With the control arm be ready to have to cut the bolt. I was able to get the nut off the bolt but the bolt was rust welded to the metal sleeve in the bushing.

I have been soaking all the fasteners with kroil since I bought it. The plan is to cut the arms out 100%, as long as cutting isn't an issue

 

[TheBoogieman]

Use an impact and replace one arm at a time. Rear upper shock bolts are easy to get to with a long extension. They WILL break if they've never been replaced. An air chisel will pop the broken bolts and welded nuts right out.

 

[wigsajumper]

Use an impact and replace one arm at a time. Rear upper shock bolts are easy to get to with a long extension. They WILL break if they've never been replaced. An air chisel will pop the broken bolts and welded nuts right out.

If you don't have access to an air chisel a dremel with a cut off blade works also.

 

[cpwolf]

So my rust bucket started to make a new noise the other day.. Looks like the rear upper passenger side control arm has broke. I order all 4 arms for the rear with new hardware and will begin the replacements probably tomorrow night. I have read that I should replace one at a time, return to ground and then torque.
But I still have a few questions about the job.

1. Should I be worried about how much I have driven with a broken CA?
2. I do not have a lift, do I need to be concerned with any kinds of measurements? The arms can only be one length, I assume.
3. When replacing one at a time, drop the vehicle after each arm and torque down, or replace all leave the bolts free and then torque all at once when it is on the ground again?
4. Since I have all new hardware can I just cut out the old arms, clean the brackets and then install all the new?
5. I am also replacing the rear shocks while I am back there. I have already replaced the gas tank skid so dropping the tank will be easy.. should I drop the tank again to make access that much easier.. or is that really not required?

Just ordered the rear sway links and bar too, figure.. while I'm there

Thanks in advance for the knowledge.

Others from the north have way more rust expertise, but to your question on changing one at a time, yes, do that, ha.

Assuming you're putting on a car lift to get to stuff? Otherwise, I change or take mine out with the Jeep on the ground. If you're on a lift, I'd change 1, then get the bolts not tight just a little snug, and then do another. When you're done, put it back on the ground and let it settle, then torque them down. That would be my plan if it wasn't on the ground when I did it.

Others that work on car lifts more often may correct me, I'm all good with that.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

If you're on a lift, I'd change 1, then get the bolts not tight just a little snug, and then do another. When you're done, put it back on the ground and let it settle, then torque them down. That would be my plan if it wasn't on the ground when I did it.

Others that work on car lifts more often may correct me, I'm all good with that.

I don't have lift but I wouldn't bother tightening any of them until they were all replaced.

And I don't think either of us will get corrected for that.

 

[Mhass]

You didn't say if you had stock control arms or if you bought stock or adjustable control arms. If you bought adjustable, make sure you set them to the correct length before installation. For the broken arm, I don't know how you'll get the correct length if you had adjustable arms before.
For adjustable arms, there's some measuring that you'd need to do to make sure they're installed squarely. Get the wheels where you want them in the wheel well, then measure front to rear distance on the left and on the right side of the axle to make sure your axles are square with each other and if they're not, adjust your lower control arms to make them square. Otherwise, you'll have a weird crabwalk look and wear tires quickly.

All that is moot if you bough stock arms.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

1. You should not drive with any broken control arms. Broken bushings are one thing, but don't drive if the bolts are loose or broken, or if the arm itself is in two pieces.
2. You do not need to measure anything with stock control arms. Adjustables are another story.
3. You can replace one at a time, keeping the bolts on decently tight, then drop jeep on all 4 tires, loosen the bolts again and torque to spec.
4. If you cut the arms out its fine, just make sure you save a few "example bolts", bolts that did not get cut up too bad so you have a frame of reference. Just want to double check that your new hardware is the correct size, grade 10.9, flange or no flange, etc. etc.
5. I found that removing the gas tank made a huge difference when doing the rear suspension. It's just too much in the way of everything. You can even install the whole rear suspension then add gas tank at the end- it only makes a difference of about a quarter inch in ride height (won't affect track bar or sway bar link adjustments significantly).

When you get the rear shocks out, throw away the original upper shock bolts, they are 8.8 or something. Get zinc coated 10.9 replacements and use anti seize generously. then tighten back up with only 1/4 inch drive. You will never have problems again.

You're supposed to torque the control arms with the weight on the axle/at ride height so either all 4 tires on the ground or jack on the axle, no stands on frame. The rear lower control arms by the axle side will be difficult/impossible to get a torque wrench on, on the ground, depending on what wheels and tires you have. For those two bolts, I tightened on the ground as much as possible, then I raised up the rear axle on a jack and removed one tire at a time to get them torqued.

 

[Szydd]

Here are some of the pics. 5th one shows the broken/rusted CA I believe

 

[Mhass]

 

[macleanflood]

Personally I'd be pulling that axle, cleaning up all the rust, painting the living shit out of it with something like POR15.

I'd probably preemptively replace the hard brake line and soft one too.

And replace every nut and bolt I touch.

-Mac

 

[LittleGiant]

Inquiring minds would like to know…what are the torque specs for upper and lower CA’s? Different between front and rear? Does it matter if the tires are off the ground or not?

 

[macleanflood]

Inquiring minds would like to know…what are the torque specs for upper and lower CA’s? Different between front and rear? Does it matter if the tires are off the ground or not?

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-torque-specs-1997-2006.16906/

Stock control arms with rubber bushings yes it matters and they need to be on the ground with the Jeep level.

Aftermarket control arms with Johnny Joints or other flexible joints typically do not need to be on the ground.

-Mac

 

[Szydd]

Personally I'd be pulling that axle, cleaning up all the rust, painting the living shit out of it with something like POR15.

I'd probably preemptively replace the hard brake line and soft one too.

And replace every nut and bolt I touch.

-Mac

When summer is gone the plan is to really clean and paint/replace things. Its stupid hot here today so I didn't do to much, but i started loosening the rear shock hardware and of course the two upper bolts snapped immediately. If it cools down ill drop the tank later to make things easier going forward.

 

[wigsajumper]

When summer is gone the plan is to really clean and paint/replace things. Its stupid hot here today so I didn't do to much, but i started loosening the rear shock hardware and of course the two upper bolts snapped immediately. If it cools down ill drop the tank later to make things easier going forward.

There is a guy down there in Southern New England that occasionally has southern frames for sale. He might be able to grab southern axles also?