Recommendations on flat / tube fender flares

jjvw said:
Only if you are running a minimum of bump stop extension, which usually comes along relocated upper shock mounts. And if the 35X12.5 is actually a 35X12.5 like an MTR. In that case, a highline fender will get you an additional ~3/8" of flex.

This is my 35x12.5 Patagonia with a 10.75" shock divided roughly in half, relocated upper mounts and MCE flares. The tire is closer to 34".
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To get full stuff and full lock...
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...this section needs to go away.
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35s on stock shock mounts will have far fewer conflicts with stock fenders and flares.
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I was looking at the Poison Spyder negative flares so definitely no issue with the red and probably no issue with the green either.

Then again, from the looks of it maybe I can save myself the money all together.

What suspension lift do you have? Body lift?

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Captain Phoenix said:
I was looking at the Poison Spyder negative flares so definitely no issue with the red and probably no issue with the green either.

Then again, from the looks of it maybe I can save myself the money all together.

What suspension lift do you have? Body lift?

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Currie 4" spring and Savvy 1.25" body with a bunch of other little details.
 
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Joseph said:
I have fishbone front and rear tube fenders from Quadratec. Just installed in October. I will say I’m pretty disappointed it’s starting to rust near the bottom rear of the rear fenders. Otherwise sturdy and the finish everywhere is is really nice.
But for what it’s worth they’re probably comparable to Amazon or ebay ones at a cheaper price.
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I have the same flares, but I think mine were branded as Rugged Ridge. The only reason I went with them is that my daughter ran the jeep into a highway marker after a big snowstorm and damaged the factory fender. Doing aftermarket was cheaper than a factory replacement.

Mine is also showing some rust in the seams.

Overall, I like them, but I wouldn't choose to get them just for the sake of getting them. Getting them mounted up was a hassle that involved some cutting. But I do have to say that they are tough! I can stand on them.

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Might try these https://www.morris4x4center.com/xenon-fender-flares-flat-panel-4-kit-xn9190.html A bit pricey but they take a beating and spring back for more. The only thing it really gives you as far as additional clearance is it eliminates the curved down lip on the stock flares. As for 35's - I have a 4" susp lift, 1". body lift and don't have any problem, allows plenty of articulation and only some minor stuffing/rubbing at max flex.
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Captain Phoenix said:
They don't need to be highline to increase rearward clearance. I think they need to replace the battery tray to do that though.
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I'll bet @toximus would know.

While he hasn't used the EAG fenders, he has a good enough idea of clearances having compared the Metalcloak fenders and the stock fenders.

I might be wrong, but he probably has at least some idea.
 
Any fenders can improve clearance behind the tire — there's nothing back there that's solidly in the way. The stock brackets obviously need to be removed/chopped to do so because they are built to support the stock fender clearances. But the battery can stay in relatively the same location although it is tight.
 
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toximus said:
Any fenders can improve clearance behind the tire — there's nothing back there that's solidly in the way. The stock brackets obviously need to be removed/chopped to do so because they are built to support the stock fender clearances. But the battery can stay in relatively the same location although it is tight.
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I'm curious whether the EAG fenders would remove the rear clearance issue in @jjvw 's picture above. I'm trying to save a little money where I can and EAG fenders are half the price of PS and come powdercoated.
 
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