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KMarlow11

KMarlow11

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Joined
Jan 1, 2020
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Pennsylvania
Hey guys! New here and looking for some advice. I’ve seen a few threads about some similar situations to mine but I’d like some more exact advice. I recently bought a 1999 2.5 5 speed with 4.10s off of a kid with a 3” body lift on 31x10.5 15s. Obviously I want to get rid of that much body lift and go to a suspension lift. I think I’m pretty set on the 2” BDS kit, but I think I would like to keep about a 1.25” body lift for a few reasons. For one, it seems cheaper and easier to buy a 1.25” to replace my 3” spacers because it comes with all the hardware I need compared to just removing the 3” kit and having to find stock bolts to replace them. The second reason I want a little body lift is just to clean between the frame and the body after a wheeling session. So now that I’ll have a 2” suspension and a 1.25” body lift, I think the 31s will look a little too small for a 3.25” lift. It’s honestly not the worst to drive with the 31s and the 4.10s like some people say it is, which is why I’m asking if 33x10.5s would really make it that much worse without regearing. I’m not looking to regear mostly because of cost but if 33s will really make it go slower than the 45 MPH uphill that it already does, then I’ll most likely just stick to my 31s and deal with them looking a little too small. I’m just looking for some general advice to see if this setup will work out for me or if anyone has any other advice. Thanks in advance!
 
bobthetj03 said:
You could do the 1.25" BL and some 1" H&R springs and keep the 31's. That would be a pretty ideal setup IMO.
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My idea with the 2” BDS and the 33s is because I do off-road with it decently often and I want the suspension travel and ground clearance. I don’t do anything too extreme, but I trail ride around the area and I’ve gotten caught on a rock here or there.
 
KMarlow11 said:
My idea with the 2” BDS and the 33s is because I do off-road with it decently often and I want the suspension travel and ground clearance. I don’t do anything too extreme, but I trail ride around the area and I’ve gotten caught on a rock here or there.
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What are you hanging up on? T-case skid? diffs? Gas tank skid? With the BL you have options.
 
bobthetj03 said:
What are you hanging up on? T-case skid? diffs? Gas tank skid? With the BL you have options.
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Honestly I’m not certain what hangs up or scrapes, but every now and then I’ll hear something scrape. I figured a 2” suspension lift would just all around help avoid that
 
billiebob said:
31s to 33s will definitely change performance but if you are in a gear to give 3500rpm or more on that hill, no regear will make a difference for 31s or 33s. You will need a supercharger.
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I currently have to pull the bigger hills in 3rd gear around 4,000 RPM to be around 50 MPH
 
A lot "worser-er" than you think. I'd just swap to that 1 1/4" body lift and stick with the 31s. Then find out what is hitting on the trail. Figure out if it is the Jeep or lack of offroad experience. And adjust from there.
 
Goatman said:
A lot "worser-er" than you think. I'd just swap to that 1 1/4" body lift and stick with the 31s. Then find out what is hitting on the trail. Figure out if it is the Jeep or lack of offroad experience. And adjust from there.
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I’ve been trail riding quads and dirt bikes since I’m 8 years old and my vehicles since I’m 16, it’s not lack of experience. It just seems to me that the Jeep needs more ground clearance for the trails that I take it on.
 
KMarlow11 said:
Hey guys! New here and looking for some advice. I’ve seen a few threads about some similar situations to mine but I’d like some more exact advice. I recently bought a 1999 2.5 5 speed with 4.10s off of a kid with a 3” body lift on 31x10.5 15s. Obviously I want to get rid of that much body lift and go to a suspension lift. I think I’m pretty set on the 2” BDS kit, but I think I would like to keep about a 1.25” body lift for a few reasons. For one, it seems cheaper and easier to buy a 1.25” to replace my 3” spacers because it comes with all the hardware I need compared to just removing the 3” kit and having to find stock bolts to replace them. The second reason I want a little body lift is just to clean between the frame and the body after a wheeling session. So now that I’ll have a 2” suspension and a 1.25” body lift, I think the 31s will look a little too small for a 3.25” lift. It’s honestly not the worst to drive with the 31s and the 4.10s like some people say it is, which is why I’m asking if 33x10.5s would really make it that much worse without regearing. I’m not looking to regear mostly because of cost but if 33s will really make it go slower than the 45 MPH uphill that it already does, then I’ll most likely just stick to my 31s and deal with them looking a little too small. I’m just looking for some general advice to see if this setup will work out for me or if anyone has any other advice. Thanks in advance!
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I’d go with the BDS 2” and no body lift. It should not be hard to find those bolts. Stick with 31’s

Going to 33’s will slow you down significantly
 
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JMT said:
I’d go with the BDS 2” and no body lift. It should not be hard to find those screws.

Going to 33’s will slow you down significantly
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From what I found, Quadratech wants like $7 a bolt for them. All said and done it’ll end up being around $100 for them all anyway and that’s about the price of a body lift
 
A one inch body lift with 1" springs or spacers with 31" tires could make a very capable rig without regearing. Add a SS SYE, adjustable control arms and a new driveshaft and you can do a tummy tuck. You can also raise the gas tank skid or buy a raised one aftermarket. Losing 3" or so out of the belly and a little over an inch on the gas tank skid would be pretty killer.

Only other issue would be if you are hanging up on the differentials but careful tire placement could get you quite a ways there until you have money to regear.

If you just went with spring spacers that would be cheap and you could put more money towards adjustable control arms that would allow your suspension to grow with your future upgrades.
 
KMarlow11 said:
From what I found, Quadratech wants like $7 a bolt for them. All said and done it’ll end up being around $100 for them all anyway and that’s about the price of a body lift
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Just go to the hardware store and get the right size and length.

Or, there are hundreds of people on here who have put on a body lift. There are bound to be a few lying around. 🤣 Just put up a WTB add.

A body lift isn’t going to do anything for you with 2” suspension lift
 
xxdabroxx said:
Ability to raise skids. Less need for bump stop.
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I agree, and more, such as the gas skid tuck, more clearance for rear spare, but it’s not worth all the hassle or money IMHO for how the OP is coming across to me. Plus, you do the body lift and you’ve got to lengthen the gas tank fill tube and raise the fan shroud. Does he really want to do all that? Easiest And quickest way to get clearance is a suspension lift. He could still do all that other stuff later if he got bit by the Jeep big.
 
JMT said:
I agree, and more, such as the gas skid tuck, more clearance for rear spare, but it’s not worth all the hassle or money IMHO for how the OP is coming across to me. Plus, you do the body lift and you’ve got to lengthen the gas tank fill tube and raise the fan shroud. Does he really want to do all that? Easiest And quickest way to get clearance is a suspension lift. He could still do all that other stuff later if he got bit by the Jeep big.
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He's already got a 3" body lift to remove so he has to deal with all that anyways.
 
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