X100 to this.
Unless you plan on doing some very gnarly wheeling in some very rocky terrain, this is the ideal setup IMHO.
X100 to this.
Unless you plan on doing some very gnarly wheeling in some very rocky terrain, this is the ideal setup IMHO.
This^^^
I've built numerous TJs over the last few years and my favorites are always with a 31" tire. You can still wheel the heck out of them and don't suffer the typical performance loss associated with jumping to 33" tires. Later, if needed, you can do a tummy tuck and gas tank skid, SYE and have even more fun. A 31" tire can do way more than most people think!
xxdabroxx
TJ Addict
If you go with a 2 inch spring go with BDS or Old Man Emu. I personally look for the softest spring rate, typically this will get you the most flex. But there are other factors that play a role in picking a spring.
Go with a Savvy 1.25 inch body lift. Savvy and Rockmen are the only shops that I know of that manufacture aluminum body pucks. The other rubber/poly/soft body lifts will eventually sag a bit, stick with Aluminum.
The body lift not only allows a bit more up travel, which is great, a body lift also allows you to tuck the belly pan/skid plate which improves ground clearance and the hanging up issues you mentioned.
You will really need to re gear if changing tires. I understand money does not grow on trees, but do it right, if that means saving a few months, I suggest that option.
Also consider a SYE, or even better a super short SYE from JB Conversions. Other brands also offer SSYE kits.
You also will need to address the pinion angles, which requires adjustable control arms. Adj CA is where you will really break the bank.
Do it right and you'll be happier.
As an example, this was my last build, which had H&R springs, 1.25 BL, and 31" tires. At one point it had a Savvy TT, with 17" of clearance at the skid, on 31" tires.
If you had the experience, you'd know what was scraping...
I have a feeling you're going to do 33's even though everyone is telling you not to. You've been given good advice. Follow it.
From my own experience, with 4.10 gears, a 4.0L and 33" tires...going to 33's with the 2.5L would be terrible, awful, undriveable, etc. Even in Michigan (midwestern flatland), there are hills that I need to downshift into 3rd for.
OP
So I’ve been persuaded to stick to 31s. Most likely getting the BDS 2” kit with JKS disconnects and removing the body lift all together. Now, if I remove the body lift entirely, what was done with the 3” body lift that I have to undo? I know it’s probably the fan shroud and fuel filler neck for sure, but is there a shifter linkage extension that I need to worry about? Or anything else I wouldn’t think of?
You'll definitely have to look under the TCase and see what he did to make the shifter linkage work. Hopefully it has been replaced with a cable shifter of some sort, either Novak or Savvy. If so you may need to adjust it after you get rid of the body lift, or, it may work perfectly. The rest you already mentioned.
Get under the Jeep and look for the evidence. This is good stuff to keep track of because it tells you what might need to change.
As I ended up using mine more for driving and hunting, I’m almost convinced to undo the PO hack job of fitting 35s (with issues such as rubbing everywhere that I haven’t fixed) and go to something like this. Thanks for the pictures. Good inspiration
Yeah, me, "That's the TCase Skid, gas tank, gas tank skid again, control arm?, bumper," just need to scrap the whole build and go to 37's.
Let's see, after running the Rubicon trail, front diff, lower arm bracket skids, steering steering box skid, front bumper, sliders, t-case skid, rear lower arm brackets, rear diff, gas tank skid, rear bumper. Think that about covers it. Only thing that will fix the diffs is bigger tires. The rest can be improved on with suspension lift, BL, and raised skids.
It's also important to remind ourselves and each other that rubbing, scraping, and sliding over things is sometimes part of rock crawling.
It's why we put the skid plates on, sometimes its ok to scrap over something. Don't get me wrong, avoid it when you can, sometimes it's part of the sport/hobby of rock crawling.
It's why we put the skid plates on, sometimes its ok to scrap over something. Don't get me wrong, avoid it when you can, sometimes it's part of the sport/hobby of rock crawling.
FWIW, my scrapes have tended to be considerably less on the front of the vehicle and get worse towards the rear. As has been stated though, take a look at where you scrape and go from there. As also stated, crawl underneath and see what's been done. If the stock transfer case linkage is there, throw it out and get a Savvy cable shifter. This will save you lots of aggravation!
xxdabroxx
TJ Addict